I know that there have been many, many, way too many posts on this problem but I am at my wits end and out of money on this one with no resoultion. I have a 2004 Intrepid SXT 3.5L that goes into Limp Mode after driving for about 20-30 miles. It gets stuck in 2nd gear when I slow down to 35-40mph. Once you put the car in park and restart the car it's fine until you slow down again.
Now that I've just reiterated the same problem that many people seem to be having here is what has been done to the car while it's been at the mechanic for the past 6 weeks.
First step was to do a trans service and check the valve body date code. It fell outside the TSB's recommened date so they replaced the entire valve body. $1k later problem still there. Generic P0700 codes given each step along the way.
Second step was to completely rebuild the trans. $2,500 later and the problem still occurs. I was told that both speed sensors where replaced during the rebuild. (I suggested they try this because of the many other forum posters with this problem)
Third step was a suspected faulty Solenoid Pack within the new Valve Body. They replaced that and still the problem occurs.
Fourth step was to swap the entire trans out with a new rebuild. No dice, the problem still occurs. They roadtested the vehicle for many miles after doing each step.
Fifth step (remains to be seen what happens) take the car to Chrysler and have a complete diagnostic run on the computer and electrical system.
Does this make any sense at all and are there any other steps that could concievably be done? They claim if it's the computer I will be out another $1,200 for a total of $3,700 plus tax in repairs. The vehicle barely blue books to that amount.
Any suggestions are greatly appreciated and I promise to post what the fix actually was "if" it ever gets fixed. I notice that alot of people ask for assistance but never follow up with the fix.
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First I'd see exactly what code in the TCM was causing the P0700. The P0700 is only a code from the PCM letting you know there was a fault detected and stored in the TCM. A regular OBD II scan can't tell you the actual fault in the TCM. To get the fault, you need to interface the TCM directly.
I am hoping to hear something back from the dealer that my mechanic took the car to soon. Supposedly they dropped it off on Monday 04/25/11 and I was told we are now at the mercy of the dealer as far as time goes. Coming very close to being 7 weeks without a ride now.
I will let you know what Dodge ends up coming back with and thanks for the reply.
For future reference, sometimes its better to go straight to the dealer yourself. The DRB scan tool they use can run a complete diagnostic on the BCM,TCM,and of course the PCM. I hope the mechanic you took it to gives you a refund for at least some of what you paid. BTW, I think you should call the dealer he brought it to and speak with their service dept and get it straight from the horses mouth.
In the future I will definitely take an issue like this one (hopefully I won't have any more) right to the dealer. I just know from experience that they tend to charge much more than your average mechanic.
As common sense as it is, I hadn't thought to call the dealer myself so I did so. They haven't had a chance to look at it but hopefully will today. What he did tell me however, was that he was certain that it's not a trans problem even though the codes coming back were trans related. Granted I don't know whether or not that's because the other mechanic already fixed, rebuilt, and replaced the trans or because he's seen this problem before. I will post an update as soon as I know.
UPDATE: I just got a call from the mechanic and it turns out it is the PCM. He is going to cover the cost of the initial diagnostic and labor from the dealer. (Roughly $350) I just have to pay for the new PCM and that is $561. In addition he is going to take of $150 from the initial repair bill. Overall I am happy with this and it seems fair. They did do an awful lot of work on it and many, many miles of road tests.
This however, does not end the story. They are supposed to have it finished by tomorrow. I will give a final update soon.
The latest update is that the car is finished from the dealer and the mechanic put a good long road test on it without any problems. The final bill came to $3,186.49. Ughhh. The car is barely worth that. Going to pick it up tonight after work. My commute is 46 miles one-way to work each day so I will know right away if anything is amiss.
Long story short it looks like a new PCM is what fixed my problem in this case. If anything changes I will post an update. Thanks and good luck to anyone who experiences this problem.
OMG! I went and picked up the Intrepid from my mechanic today and DID NOT even make it home before the Check Engine light came on and it bumped into 2nd gear. I am speechless. I turned around and drove it right back and grabbed the POS loaner car again. All he could say was that he'd call the dealer in the morning. Ughhhh!
Well here is my update for today. The car has been at the dealer for nearly 3 weeks now and they DON'T HAVE A CLUE what is wrong. They had many e-mails and several conference calls back and forth to Chrysler directly and the only thing that can remotely be determined is that it may be a "volume" issue within the trans. The pressure seems to be fine but... The only way to test volume in a trans is with a $10k piece of equipment that no one owns because its such a rare problem.
The only other scenario is a temperature problem so Dodge put in a brand new radiator and also added a heavy duty trans cooler which the car never had and I would guess never needed. My '05 RAM with the Off-Road package had one but that's about the closest thing I've ever heard to needing one.
Hopefully the car will get a long road test today and I will find out something soon. The last thing that they are going to try is the trans wiring harness if the radiator didn't fix the problem. Although the mechanic, trans guy, and dealer all checked out the harness and didn't find any problems.
Shy of literally changing the engine there is nothing left.
My update for June 6th. Just to recap from my previous post, a new radiator and auxiliary trans cooler were installed and after 68 miles it failed again so they proceeded with the final step in their bag of tricks and replaced the trans wiring harness. So far so good. The mechanic put 125 miles on it and I made it to work today (48 miles one way) without incident.
Keeping my fingers crossed but I hope the harness did the trick. I have "other" issues to address now because the hood has to be slammed to close and the fender on the driver's side is sticking up about a half inch higher than the hood. They also were either careless in the garage or hit something as there is some damage to the front fender and a gouge in the plastic nose of the car. Someone apparently dropped something hot on the front seat so there's a burn mark on the driver's seat and he so graciously left the car on E for me.
@kurt2 - I still haven't gotten the codes from him yet but I intend to. Also I haven't had to out of pocket another dime for any of the additional work which is a good thing. Frankly I wasn't going to pay them another dime anyway. The next dollar that left my wallet would've been to an attorney. I dropped the car off to them March 14th and finally got it back June 4th.
For future reference you should always do a walk around when you pick up a vehicle from the shop. St that time take note of any discrepancies and they will have them fixed for free. You may still ne able to have the hood/fender issue fixed if your other mechanic has your back and states he knows the hood used to close and the fender/hood issue happened at the shop. I would bring up all my complaints though and if the workers are honest, you may get it all fixed. Just kick up you heals a bit and see what it gets you. Like I said before though, you should always do a walk around prior to acceptance.
@jamally - Yep it was the wiring harness for me. I've been driving it for about 4 months now and no problems at all. My daily commute is 92 miles round trip and I do it every day and I've put about 10k miles on it since June. I wouldn't be the bank on this being the fix for every situation but they dealer couldn't even figure this one out. I'm glad it's fixed but $3,200 is alot of money to figure out it was a $200 problem. Good luck.
,,,exactly - my intrepid was returned from the dealer with no suggestions,
they couldn't get a signal from their break-out box.
Did you replace the entire harness, or just a specific branch of the harness..
This is important info , so i hope you can remember...
Was it in car wiring, or just the harness for the transaxle, or the entire engine compartment ??
Well I woke up this morning only get completely pissed off. Something failed on my trans again! This time though the speedometer isn't working and the car won't shift out of 1st gear. Sometimes is clunks and starts to go but then kicks back into 1st gear and speedometer to zero. I absolutely love my Intrepid but I have to tell you, I am done with it. NAPA apparently doesn't warranty any transmission or engine work so I am at the mercy of the mechanic now. It's been six months and I got a "we'll see response when I talked to the mechanic." Ughhhh!