This is my first time here. I have a 2000 Intrepid, which has had alot of problems recently. Originally thought it was the fuel pump because of how it acted. Last week, I told the garage that I normally deal with this, and bought the part. I told them to check it first, and let me know if I needed to return the part and/or get a different one. They called me much later and told me it was done. They said they replaced the pump [/filter(in the tank)], but it was still running sluggish, so they cleaned the map sensor. It ran good for a couple days, then started doing the same stuff. I made it through my work week (my Friday is actually Tuesday), and went to take it to them on Wednesday. I had just driven down to the store half an hour before this, but not it would not stay started. It would start up, act as if it were choking, then die. Pressing on the gas (air) pedal did not even register. After about 4-5 tries, I gave up. I checked the oil, and it was drained mostly even though I added a quart but a few weeks ago. So, I got a ride, bought two quarts and added them. Tried to start it again, and it just clicked. Had my ride (took me to get the oil) jump me and it started, but it idled really rough, backfired, then died. So I called the shop, and they said there was obviously something else wrong with my car (duh). They told me they would discount the work for my troubles. So I have it towed to them last evening, and call them this morning. The mechanic first asks me if it's been burning alot of oil, to which I answer "Not normally, but I did notice it was low yesterday after me adding a quart recently." He then tells me something about the intake holding oil, and how this is usually on older cars with a lot of miles. He points out that while I only have 117,000 miles on my car, this is what's happening with it. He says that most cars have a way to change the vacuum (or something) so that this is prevented, but not mine. Then he uttered 7 DREADFUL words : "I don't know how to fix it"! Obviously, from now on I will only use Dodge certified mechanics. Anyway, he tells me that the only thing I can do is to clean the map sensor every few days!? Is this true? Please, any help would be appreciated more than you know. I have 4 kids, one has autism, and our 1 year old had open heart suregery for Tetralogy but 6 months ago. I work for a V.A. hospital, and go to school full time online. If ever someone needed help, right now it's me. Anyone, please advise?

 

the 2.7 engine does not have oil running into the intake like older cars.
try a PCV valve? since u say it recently burns oil. Stuck PCV valve could cause poor idle and burning oil. It is a cheap part to try. Or you can just pinch off PCV hose.
why clean MAP instead of replacing it? and cleaning it makes it run better? that's weird.
No check engine light? no codes? and does the car run now after your mechanic took a shot at it after u towed it there.

Also check Throttle body for being cake up with carbon(it happens on old cars if never cleaned), and throttle position sensor.

 

Ok, so there are no codes, and no check engine light, until it won't stay started. Then the check engine light comes on. The problem with testing for codes once this happens is that I don't have a tester, and driving it to Autozone, etc., is not possible obviously. I replaced the PCV valve last night, and it seemed to run alot better until I went to go on lunch break today, and it wouldn't start again. I just got home late from work because I spent an hour and a half teaching myself how to get my battery(under side) out and disconnected. I cleaned my terminals. I used MAF cleaner, and cleaned my MAP sensor. Once it dried, I started my car and it fired right up. I drove almost to the exit of the ground where I work, it died again and would not start. The shop had just cleaned it yesterday morning. So everytime (3) now, it is happening faster. Another thing to note is that when I drove my car home from the shop yesterday, the A/C was HOT(as if I turned on the heat). I thought it might be the relay to my compressor, but that tested fine. So, I thought maybe it was the belt, but it was on and tight. Obviously this led me to believe it was my compressor or a leak, because I had just added refrigerant a month and a half ago. HOWEVER, today, after I cleaned everything, reassembled and started the car, the A/C was cold again!? Related?

Please advise?

 

If you have a CEL, you have to read it.
On Dodge, you can do the Key Dance for codes.
Key ON, Off, ON, Off, ON withint 6 second, code will display in the Odometer.
A/C has nothing to do with your car not starting, it is a completely separate system.

If you suspect a bad MAP sensor, you can atually disconnect the MAP sensor and try to start the car. Car will start without MAP on Dodge, even it might run a little crappy for the first minute. and will have a long crank time. Computer will substitute MAP with calculation base on other sensor.

 

I did the key trick today on my lunch break. I also looked up what the 4 codes I got mean. To the best of my limited knowledge, the codes are as follows :

P 1684 - Battery disconnected within last 50 starts

P 0122 - Throttle/Pedal position sensor/switch A circuit low input

P 1496 - 5 volt supply outlet low

P 0405 - Exhaust gas recirculation sensor A circuit low

Done

Also, I figured out something new. I started the car, and it fired fine. Before now, I think I was pressing the gas/air pedal when starting. This time I did not. After it started, I tried to rev it. As soon as my foot hit the pedal, it died. Then it acted like the battery was too low to start (tried to start, then seemed to lose the power to be able to). So I tried once more, and it acted as though the starter was malfunctioning/bad (clicking). But, I mentioned getting a jump when it did this before, and it started that time, then idled rough, backfired, and died. This time I did not try to jump, though. Please advise? And thank you for your help thusfar...

 

try cleaning battery post and Jumper post, first of all. Also, hows the health of the battery? how old is it? try jump it again.
Throttle position sensor could be a cause, As I mentioned before. I think you can have it disconnect and still start the car, not sure.
But judging by those code, it looks like one of ur sensor is shorting out the PCM. Possibly the MAP, since you said ur mechanic clean it and work for a while. So, disconnect it, and see if the car runs any better.

At this point, You really need a scanner that can read out all the numeric output of all sensor, and see which sensor reading doesn't seem right. Like, if Ambient temp sensor is reading 10 degree while u know it is 70 degree outside...

 

Ok, so yesterday, when I got off of work I went and tried starting the car with the MAP sensor unplugged again. This time, I jump started it and got is started. With the MAP unplugged, the car lost RPM's and died within a couple seconds 3 times in a row without me even touching the gas. So I plugged the sensor back in, and started it again. It ran fine in idle for about 20 secs before I pressed the gas, and then, as soon as my foot touched the gas pedal, it died. Also, when I unhooked my battery and cleaned the MAP a few days ago, I did buy a kit and clean my terminals. As I said though, when I jumped it, it started immediately, but then lost RPM's and died. So I gave it a minute, as to make sure it wasn't a charging problem, but it had the same effect. Again, with MAP plugged in, runs fine til gas pedal is pressed, MAP unplugged, loses RPM's and dies almost immediately. Could this be connected to the throttle position sensor code I recieved?

 

Also, I will be buying a tester, and testing the sensors sometime tomorrow. I am getting ready to go to work now, but will let you know the testing results sometime tomorrow evening. I went ahead and ordered the MAP, and plan to try installing it tomorrow as well, as long as the part comes in. Hopefully that does the trick, but with the symptom displayed when it was unplugged, I am not very confident right now that it will.

 

ok, If that's the case, I doubt it is ur map. You probably have a bad TPS, or low fuel. try have someone press on gas, while you spray cleaners into the intake or throttle.

 

If you get a scanner, you can actually see what’s going on much better. Make sure to get one with real time monitoring and you can see the TPS position, and the MAP pressure reading. If the MAP is sticking (which they do frequently), it can cause problems starting etc, but they should clear up in limp in mode when it’s disconnected. With the scanner hooked up this would present as a nonmoving, or choppy value. With the TPS fault in memory, I’d lean towards that as the culprit. The TPS tells the PCM your intent on speed and the PCM adjusts timing, fuel pulse width etc based on this input. If it is bad, it has no way of knowing how to trim the engine. The TPS can also be tested with a multi meter on ohm setting. Look for the TPS test in the service manual. There still should be a link under “the holy grail” sticky post in the 2nd gen section.