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2nd Gen Neon 2000 - 2005 2nd Gen Neon

Bad vibrations

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  #1  
Old 09-02-2009, 09:27 PM
dodgylisa dodgylisa is offline
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Unhappy Bad vibrations

My husband and I have a 2004 Dodge Neon SXT that is driving me dodgy!
Its our only vehicle and he is a full time student and works full time so, money is tight.

We had some vibration in the vehicle and discovered the motor mounts were broken, so we bought the top one and replaced it. Shortly there after the vibration has become worse. He bought the lower one when we had the money and replaced it.

Now the vibration is the same as it was before he replaced the lower one and it seems to be getting worse. He can't find the problem, and we don't have the money to put it in the shop.

What do we do, and is it safe to drive? My mother is in hospice and I have to drive 2 1/2 hours there back to see her.

My husband can do the work, but is at a loss as to what the problem is.

Please help I am going DODGY!

dodgylisa
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  #2  
Old 09-03-2009, 01:07 AM
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Did the shop perform the alignment procedure for the mounts? Mine is still vibrating kinda badly, but I think the mounts aren't aligned correctly.
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Torque Strut Alignment Procedure | Maintenance Info | '00-'02 FSM | '03-'05 FSM | FAQ and Performance Thread

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  #3  
Old 09-03-2009, 09:23 AM
dodgylisa dodgylisa is offline
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How do you align the mounts? My husband installed them not a shop, and he has no idea..LOL
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  #4  
Old 09-03-2009, 12:47 PM
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After re-reading it when not in a hurry to get the car done, I can very easily see I did it incorrectly, lol. I also added a note in red in the last figure to help clarify it a bit. I understand the full-time student and work situation as well (can't wait to be done with school), so I hope this helps!

ENGINE TORQUE STRUT ADJUSTMENT

The upper and lower torque struts need to be adjusted together to assure proper engine positioning and engine mount loading. Whenever a torque strut bolt(s) is loosened, this procedure must be performed. [As you can see, any time even one of the bolts is loosened, let alone mount replaced, this procedure needs to be done.]

(1) Remove accessory drive belt splash shield (Fig. 93).

(2) Remove pencil strut (Fig. 94).

(3) Loosen the upper and lower torque strut attaching bolt at the suspension crossmember and shock tower bracket (Fig. 92).

(4) The engine position may now be adjusted by positioning a suitable floor jack on the forward edge of the transmission bell housing (Fig. 95). NOTE: The floor jack must be positioned as shown in (Fig. 95) to prevent minimal upward lifting of the engine.

(5) With the engine supported, remove the upper and lower torque strut attachment bolt(s) at shock tower bracket and suspension crossmember (Fig. 92). Verify that the torque struts are free to move within the shock tower bracket and crossmember. Reinstall the torque strut bolt(s), but do not tighten.

(6) Carefully apply upward force, allowing the upper engine to rotate rearward until the distance between the center of the rearmost attaching bolt on the engine mount bracket (point A) and the center of the hole on the shock tower bracket (point B) is 119 mm (4.70 in.) (Fig. 96).
CAUTION: The engine must be held in position with jack until both the upper and lower torque strut bolts are tightened.

(7) With the engine held at the proper position, tighten both the upper and lower torque strut bolts to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 92).

(8) Remove the floor jack.

(9) Install pencil strut and tighten nuts to 58 Nm (43 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 94).

(10) Install accessory drive belt splash shield (Fig. 93).

Click the image to open in full size.

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Last edited by darthroush; 09-03-2009 at 12:50 PM..
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  #5  
Old 09-03-2009, 09:19 PM
dodgylisa dodgylisa is offline
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He crawled under there.. Again, lol and followed the directions. He said it was 5 1/2 inches between the bolts when it was supposed to be 4.7 inches. He Jacked it up and the mounts, and the bolts would not fit with the front of the motor that high. The vibrations are a little different but still there...

Now what?

ARRRGGHH!

Lisa
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  #6  
Old 09-03-2009, 09:19 PM
dodgylisa dodgylisa is offline
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oops double posted, sorry

Last edited by dodgylisa; 09-03-2009 at 09:22 PM..
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  #7  
Old 09-03-2009, 09:32 PM
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I'm not sure on that one. As I said, I still haven't done it correctly (Ooops!). I think that's why the bolts need to be removed (to free up the mounts), and then reinstalled but not tightened until the measurement is made. If the bolts are in there, I'd think it would work... Oh, tell him to use MM. More accurate than rounding up.

I will probably be attempting this tomorrow, Saturday night at the latest, so I will see what happens when I give it a go.
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Last edited by darthroush; 09-03-2009 at 09:36 PM..
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  #8  
Old 09-04-2009, 11:22 AM
dodgylisa dodgylisa is offline
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Default Let us know.

Please let us know how it goes.
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  #9  
Old 09-04-2009, 12:01 PM
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Did you check the wheels to see if one or more is bent? Or the bushings in the suspension?
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Looks alot different now! ^
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  #10  
Old 09-04-2009, 07:01 PM
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I think she is referring to the steering wheel feeling like it is going to vibrate off of the car while idling.
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Last edited by darthroush; 09-04-2009 at 07:03 PM..
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  #11  
Old 09-05-2009, 12:34 AM
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Mine worked fine. I had to pull the back of the upper mount towards the fender to get the bolt started (the bottom mount bolt threaded fine on it's own), but I'm at approximately 119.06mm between points A and B. I also reinstalled the upper motor mount insert. I figure that is a bit of a step backwards, but it still hopefully won't be that bad since it is now lined up.
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If you do PM me, expect a 1-2 week wait for a reply.
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  #12  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:03 PM
Allenman989 Allenman989 is offline
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Thank you very much for posting this! I'm an auto mechanics student at Hawaii Community College and the car were are working on (a 2000 neon) is doing the same thing. Both torque struts were bad so we replaced them and got the vibration. Our Mitchell program at the college didn't have very good instructions on the alignment procedure either.
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  #13  
Old 09-23-2009, 02:55 AM
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NP. D/L the shop manuals if you need them.
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  #14  
Old 09-23-2009, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allenman989 View Post
Thank you very much for posting this! I'm an auto mechanics student at Hawaii Community College and the car were are working on (a 2000 neon) is doing the same thing. Both torque struts were bad so we replaced them and got the vibration. Our Mitchell program at the college didn't have very good instructions on the alignment procedure either.
you didn't look very hard took me 10 minutes to find it on mitchell ondemand. After putting in vehicle information go to repair then to engine. Then click timing belt then on the right hand side you click adjustments and it gives you the same instructions as stated by darth. I also go to a mechanic school just incase your wondering if i pay for mitchell.
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:29 PM
Allenman989 Allenman989 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallblockfreak View Post
you didn't look very hard took me 10 minutes to find it on mitchell ondemand. After putting in vehicle information go to repair then to engine. Then click timing belt then on the right hand side you click adjustments and it gives you the same instructions as stated by darth. I also go to a mechanic school just incase your wondering if i pay for mitchell.
Ours is ghetto and glitchy... the images don't work most of the time...

We did the alignment procedure more than a few times, and even with the engine running to see if we could find a spot without vibrations, to no avail. What we ended up doing was dissecting the entire front part of the engine and removing the middle pivoting mount. It was ripped and leaking hydrolic fluid all over the place apparently. It's really hard to get a good look at that mount when it's in the car. No room to even use a mirror. We had to order the mount, so it wont be at the college until tomorrow. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

So now all the things we replaced are (these are all the things that we found were bad on the car, not just trying to fix the vibration):
-Spark plugs and wires
-oil and filter
-upper and lower torque struts
-alternator and powersteering pump belt
-and soon the middle engine mount on the passenger side.

Good fun... I don't like chrysler/Dodge/Jeep (Jeep is not as bad) around the year 2000. They made EVERYTHING difficult. You have to be anorexic to work on them.
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:40 PM
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That's about where I am at with it. I will probably replace the middle mount even if it isn't broken when I do the timing belt...or when someone else does it just because I don't want to deal with it later. Still haven't decided if I want to do that or not.
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Old 09-26-2009, 02:20 AM
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Good fun... I don't like chrysler/Dodge/Jeep (Jeep is not as bad) around the year 2000. They made EVERYTHING difficult. You have to be anorexic to work on them.
^^^^hahahahahahaha you think they are bad work on a ford sometime then we will see what you say.
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Old 09-27-2009, 01:59 AM
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Haven't had any trouble working on any of mine. The Neon has been nothing but a bitch though...
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Old 09-28-2009, 04:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallblockfreak View Post
^^^^hahahahahahaha you think they are bad work on a ford sometime then we will see what you say.
I work on fords all the time; Parker ranch is one of the largest cattle ranches in the US. They use mostly Ford trucks, and I end up working on a lot of them... I agree that they suck for the most part, but at least they have room for your arms when you need to reach something. Personally I'm a chevy guy, but they have their quirks too. I would much rather a nice hot rod powered by a chevy small block bored 60 over with a racing cam, edelbrock intake, holley 4barrel, carb spacer, headers, and msd ignition... :drool: maybe some day....

So far the worst car I've worked on is probably the 2000 chrysler 300 that I changed the radiator in... the radiator wasn't all that difficult, but I went to change the lower hose as well since I was in there, and about destroyed my hands trying to remove it from the engine. I pity whoever has to dig deeper on one of those engines. It looks worse to work on than my dads 99 cadillac eldorado that I rebuilt the top end on (step #1: remove engine from vehicle...lol).

We didn't get the part yet so we'll probably be at it tomorrow. I might even take pics.

Last edited by Allenman989; 09-28-2009 at 04:24 AM..
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:01 PM
Allenman989 Allenman989 is offline
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Well changing that middle mount fixed the vibration. It's all nice and smooth now. I still can't believe that all 3 mounts were busted on that side. The owner must've been neutral dropping it a little too much. lol... Thanks again everyone for your help!

Here are some pics:
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Last edited by Allenman989; 09-28-2009 at 11:09 PM..
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:01 PM
 
 
 
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