Hi all -
A while back I posted for info and advice on an overheating '03 SXT. It was kinda sporadic, and i've had an extra vehicle to drive lately, so I'm just getting around to working on it.

Before I get into a water pump replacement, I'm planning to do a radiator backflush to rule out a blockage there. The car had been sitting quite a bit before this started happening.

Anyway - I'm to the point of pulling the radiator out. I've taken the AC condensor bracket bolts out of the top, and can separate the radiator from the condensor. However, I still can't lift the radiator out - the condensor wants to come out with it. It feels like they're still connected at the bottom. I can't see any fasteners holding them together, and see nothing mentioned in the haynes manual, or any of the online how-to's for this. I'm afraid to use much force to get them apart. The stuff looks more expensive than sturdy, and really don't want to replace anything more than i'm looking at already.

So - anyone familiar with this? Am I missing something? Any trick to getting them untangled?

Thanks!
Steve

 

The factory service manual mentions four screws that attach the condensor to the radiator, but it's been a while since I've removed one and I can't remember if they're there or not.

 

If you have an auto tranny did you check the trans. fluid cooler lines?

 

Yep. I did pull the transmission hoses & plugged them for now. If Richards recalls a mention of 4 screws, I'll inspect a bit closer. Thanks for the replies.

 

sometimes if the rad support/frame is bent will make it harder to pull up an out but ones all the lines are disco'd should pull right up with a tad of finessing

 

Thanks TMB. That could very well be the case. This one has had a head-on deer encounter, so that may very well be the case. I'm still finding stuff that was broken and wasn't repaired - most noticeably all the air box mounts. It's actually waiting to get into the shop for ANOTHER deer accident. Wish I was as effective with a bow or shotgun as I seem to be with this car.

Right now too frig'n cold to mess with. Will let you know how it goes once we thaw out a little.

Thanks - Steve

 

Ok - An update on this. I found what was holding the radiator. In addition to the two screw mounts on top, there were 2 brackets holding it at the bottom as well. I was able to reach see and reach the bolts from the lower grill area. Once i pulled a screw from each bottom corner, it pulled right out.

I gave it a good flushing, top to bottom, bottom to top, rinse... repeat..., repeat again.... Put it all back together, filled with coolant - and tested. First test run it did heat up pretty quick and spewed a bit of coolant when i released the cap. I was able to put more coolant in than I lost, so imagine there had been some voids that weren't filled. From there, it's all been good. Seems to run a bit warmer than it did. I'm not 100% sure we're done, but I'm gonna trust it for now.

Another thing that does concern me is the heater doesn't seem to blow hot air - no matter how long it's been running. I understand this might be a mechanical mixer door issue, so going to research a bit and see what I find. Might post another thread for suggestions on the issue.

Thanks for all the suggestions on the radiator. And if anyone else has problems, look for the bolts at the bottom corners. This isn't mentioned at all in the Haynes manual. Not sure about others.

Steve

 

Could be air in the system. If you open the rad cap while the engine is cool, there should be coolant pooled up so you cannot (clearly) see the thermostat inside. if you can just add more coolant.

 

Trying to remember, you replaced the thermostat and cap? The previous owner of my 2000 had the radiator pulled and it was jerry rigged to put back. Brackets were bent and not all brackets are still there. If it's still running hot I would consider replacing the radiator. Good job

 

Make sure the fans are cycling on as well?