My cars OBD is giving codes P0117, P0132, P0138, P0351, P0462, P1684, P1685, P1282 but when I do the chime test it gives off only code # 51. I know what they all say they mean cause I've looked them up but its so much I wouldn't know where to start. I've been broke down now for 3 days in Mcdonald's parking lot and I'm afraid they may tow me soon. I currently live in my car so its my home and I can't loose my home. So with that being said i don't have much money for repairs so the easiest cheapest way anyone could tell me how to fix it would be appreciated.

Ok now to give info on what my cars been doing first thing that happened is fuel pump went out had someone fix it but for some reason they couldn't get the gas to my engine so they hot wired my fuel pump through a wire to my fuse box. Then my clutch goes out have someone fix that and they give it back to me with check engine light on and it acting like it wanted to die whenever I came to a stop took it back to him and of course he has know clue what's wrong with it. So I continue to drive it like that fuel pump goes out again so replace that. And now its doing all kinds of crazy stuff now its back firing, sluggish when taking off at stop lights, it drives great on the freeway but not driving around town where I have to make a lot of stops I literally have to push the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there to get it to go, and when I first start the car and for I'd say the first 20 minutes of driving it it's fine, but then all of sudden it starts chimming and the thermostat gauge goes from cold instantly to hot but cars not over heating. When I got my car back after dude changed my clutch temperature gauge wasn't working either or so I thought until it went straight to hot. But now once again fuel pump has gone out again so whatever going on in the engine I believe is also causing my fuel pumps to go out. I don't want to change the fuel pump again and the same thing keep happening but I can't live in Mcdonald's parking lot to much longer. So Please if somebody could help me as soon as possible I'd greatly appreciate it thanks so much.

 

Welcome to the 2nd gen Neon forum.

Good idea to have scanned for & posted up All trouble code clue Numbers.

I see you have 160 reads but no replies, so I'll see if I can get things started.
It seems you have more than one problem that may be confusing things, so begin with the basics.

Check the battery state of charge & if low, make sure the plates are covered with distilled water & have it recharged with a battery charger on a low rate, say 4-6 amps, so as not to over heat & damage/warp the plates.

We need the battery to be at a full state of charge to have the things it powers to work correctly.

After you know the battery is at a full state of charge, have the electrical system load tested, so you know the alternator & battery are up to handling their electrical load, so the battery will remain charged & the alternator can supply enough power to run the engine & keep the battery charge topped up.

Then have the fuel pump power relay circuit put right. It may have just been a bad power relay in the under hood power distribution box, as relays are a common problem part.

Once the battery is up to full charge & the fuel pump power relay trouble code has been fixed, have the fuel pressure checked.

The O2 sensor codes could be caused by a blown heater circuit fuse, or low battery voltage to the heaters, or low fuel pressure from the pump power relay woes, that could mess with fuel trim that could also be caused by low battery voltage, so you see the need to make sure the electrical system & feed circuits are up to snuff.

The P0351 is for the ignition coil primary circuit. This can cause the backfire. So check that the coil pack wiring is good & the electrical connector contacts are clean & securely plugged in. If all that is ok & you still have the trouble code, remove the coil pack & have your favorite auto parts store do a no cost bench test to see if it's bad.
Again, if your having a battery/alternator problem that's supplying low voltage to the coil pack, it can cause it to produce a wimpy spark that'll cause drive ability problems.
It's all a vicious circle. So, again , you can see it's important to make sure the battery, battery cables, their connections to the engine, body & alternator are clean, bright & tight & that the alternator output is up to snuff.

Once you know the electrical system is functional, the coil pack, fuel pump, fuel pressure & O2 sensor heater fuse, wiring & electrical connectors are ok, plugged in & the engine will start & run, clear the trouble codes & rescan for trouble codes, to see if the O2 sensor heater circuit trouble codes have cleared. If not recheck their fuses & electrical connectors & if ok, suspect their heaters have gone open circuit, so replace the O2 sensors. Fixing the O2 sensor & coil pack codes should help the back fire & drive ability problems.

Then tell us how this puppy is running & post up any remaining trouble code clue Numbers.
A bunch of thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Well Shelby36, it's been a couple of weeks + now & 274 minds are curious about how your 2000 Neon trouble shoot is going???

 

Sorry its taken so long to update everyone first let me get the embarrassing part out of the way reason why car wouldn't start because it was out of gas hence the reason fuel pump wasn't running so put gas got fuel pump running again and car started again.

Also I got new battery, spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil pack, radiator, radiator hose, and engine coolant temperature sensor, and nothing car still over heats and still back fires. So now I believe my water pump is bad cause there's water leaking out from underneath it faster then I can put it in the radiator. So I bought water pump and timing belt and of course changing them had to be difficult right hopefully I found somebody to do the work tomorrow keep fingers crossed for me please.

Ok so hopefully that will take care of the over heating problem. But I don't know what to do about the back firing problem. I hope and pray that after changing these two parts that my car will go back to normal and that the check engine light will finally go out.....

But if there's any other suggestion's anyone may have for me then please by all means please give them to me thanks.

 

Also I forgot to mention the heater is blowing out cold air too would this be caused by the bad water pump as well?

 

Ok, good feedback, sounds like you've been busy having this puppy worked on, to bring scheduled maintenance up to date. Did the parts replaced, like the coil pack, battery & radiator, check bad?

Engine over heating can be caused by something as simple & inexpensive as a stuck closed coolant thermostat, or as costly as a blown head gasket, or as you suspect a water pump with worn out vanes, that are unable to circulate enough coolant volume to keep engine temp under control.

If you have coolant pouring out around the water pump as fast as you can pour it in the radiator, you have a serious problem that needs to be put right without delay.
The cooling system needs to be sealed & able to hold the specified pressure, or the coolant will boil at a lower heat level, so sounds like you need some serious coolant system trouble shooting & repair, choose the tech carefully, so they do it right.

No heat from the heater can be caused by a number of things, so we need to have you perform a few checks to help narrow the suspect list.

You didn't say if the coolant thermostat has been checked, or replaced, same for the radiator cap. Both of these items are scheduled maintenance replacement items.

Are Both heater hoses (where they go through the engine side of the firewall) getting Hot? If so, then you have water circulating through the heater core & the problem may be the dash temp control connection to, or the blend door in the air box isn't moving, or the blower motor isn't working.

If the inlet heater hose is hot, but the outlet hose is cold, or barely warm, you might have a blockage of debris in the heater core, so tell us if the coolant has been neglected & not changed on time with the specified recipe coolant, such that it has become rusty?

If from the heater hose feel test you suspect the heater core flow is blocked, try taking both those hoses loose at the firewall connection & back flush with tap water, in Reverse flow direction, water going into the heater core outlet & see if you can remove the restriction.

If the blower motor isn't running, check the fuse in the drivers side dash located fuse panel.

On the back fire, a number of things can cause that, like a worn timing belt that's jumped a tooth or two, faulty timing from an acting out cam, or crankshaft sensor, or maybe a loosely mounted sensor, or a blown head gasket, or, sticking open intake valve, or, well you get the idea, it could be a mechanical, or electrical timing problem, so we need more info to make a more informed guess on where to look next on the back fire problem.
More thoughts for consideration, keep us posted on your trouble shoot.

 

Well I didn't get the water pump changed soon enough so it went out when I was driving. They to make matters worse I try and start it again and timing belt breaks completely off. So what seems like to me to be the longest 3 weeks of my life there both fixed but and car starts for only a minute then dies any ideas to why this is happening?
Also car only gives one code now P0117 which is odd since I replaced the engine coolant temperature circuit sensor. And check engine light still on as far as I can tell for the minute it will stay running that is.

 

Sorry to hear of your continuing Neon woes, but sounds like your knocking them down one at a time, sooner or later it'll all come together, so hang in there & persevere to see this repair cycle through to a successful ending.
Good idea to have posted the latest trouble code Number clue.
Since it'll start & run for a minute before cutting off, suggests a fuel delivery problem.
Have a read here https://www.obd-codes.com/p0117 about the P0117 & what some of the symptoms are & engine stall is one. Let us know what you find.
If the sensor & its circuit check out, perform a fuel pressure & delivery volume/rate, over time test & post up the Numbers.
The fuel pressure on our 2000 models should be 44-54 psi & the delivery rate should be around 1/2pt-per 15 seconds run time.
Let us know what you find.

 

I'm trying to make light of the whole situation cause if I don't all just start getting emotional again. Well after all this time, money, parts, labor, and the water pump + timing belt being installed we now have been told we have a blown head gasket, only 1 cylinder is firing # 3, and no compression. Totally ruined my Christmas not whatvi wanted to hear. I can't afford to pay someone to do that work plus some have said I would be better off getting new car. Easy for them to say my car is not only my car its my home and I lost both in one day it was devastating to say the least. So thanks for all your help and advice looks like its the end for my Neon sad to say.

 

Dang, when it rains, it Pours on your end!!!
SO, lets think about this some more.
If the body & running gear are still ok & you'd like to hold onto the Neon, it might be less expensive to just replace the engine with a salvage yard donor, maybe they can locate one with fewer miles on it.
Many yards will install the engine as part of the deal. More thoughts for consideration.
In any case, let us know how it goes