FIXED: Engine Problems/Throttle Body
#22
RE: HELP: Engine Problems
The rich/lean problem is not something you can do much about without dropping lots of money down. You would need a A/F guage with a wideband sensor, some way to control fuel mixture, you'd probably have to go to a dyno to properly tune it as well. Not worth your money for the state your car is in right now. The little screw should adjust your idle...if its doing what I'm thinking its doing. The PCM will control your fuel. It just using readings from the TB among other readings.
And from what I've seen neons run rich...the wideband I wouldn't say is not worth it, but I don't think it would help you fix your problem.
And from what I've seen neons run rich...the wideband I wouldn't say is not worth it, but I don't think it would help you fix your problem.
#23
RE: HELP: Engine Problems
Sweet, thank you so much for your help low slow. Well I'll guess I have to go mess around with it some more today. If I get the same results as last night that it shoukd be fixed. If I can drive 35 miles problem free on the highway I'll be absolutely sure its working.
#24
RE: HELP: Engine Problems
Okay let me tell you what happened today.
I tightened it up as best I could before the RPMS jumped to 2500 at idle. It's very sensitive. So it was sitting at 900-1000. Got on the highway and pulled 90 as soon as I got on. Same f*cking thing. Engine light, shuttering.
When I got back home I tried something new. (yet again) I untightened it completely. Right after, I took it up to 90 three times on a side street and had no problems. Although I only held it there for a second or two everytime. So if this didn't fix it than I'm all out of options. I've tried every setting possible now. The only thing I can do now is test it on the highway one final time and see what happens. Know what the funny thing is? After untightening it the RPMS didn't lower like we thought they would. They currenly sit at 800 or so. I'm confident it's going to work now.
Now it's even more responsive since I untightened it which is how it should be. I'm hoping that I fixed it. I'll let you guys know what happens after my next run on the highway.
I tightened it up as best I could before the RPMS jumped to 2500 at idle. It's very sensitive. So it was sitting at 900-1000. Got on the highway and pulled 90 as soon as I got on. Same f*cking thing. Engine light, shuttering.
When I got back home I tried something new. (yet again) I untightened it completely. Right after, I took it up to 90 three times on a side street and had no problems. Although I only held it there for a second or two everytime. So if this didn't fix it than I'm all out of options. I've tried every setting possible now. The only thing I can do now is test it on the highway one final time and see what happens. Know what the funny thing is? After untightening it the RPMS didn't lower like we thought they would. They currenly sit at 800 or so. I'm confident it's going to work now.
Now it's even more responsive since I untightened it which is how it should be. I'm hoping that I fixed it. I'll let you guys know what happens after my next run on the highway.
#25
RE: HELP: Engine Problems
Alright so I didn't wait untill the next day to test it out on the highway so my engine light was still on. Drove 20 miles at around 85. No problems. Stayed at a friends house for about an hour. On the way back I made sure it was working. Hit 115 no problem. Then hit 90 three times, and continued home at 85. No way in hell would I have made it all those times when it was shuttering. Pulled back up to my house, and right before I turned my car off the engine light turned off. Couldn't have been better results. I think the problem is completely gone now! Was the stupid screw the whole time. *rolleyes
Brian
Brian