DIY - Heater Core

 
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:19 PM
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Thumbs up DIY - Heater Core

I followed these instructions yesterday and I found only one step missing and I took some pics. I however forgot to get a pic of the unit out of the truck. Some pics aren't here, if you need pictures for the steps that don't have them, you should be taking this to the mechanic.....I forgot to circle things in the pics, I will throw down with some MSPAINT soon to have the parts stand out.

1) Disconnect battery cable

2) Remove first screw on door sill both sides (these are the pieces that hold your carpet down)

3) Remove kick panels and panel under steering wheel.

4) Remove two nuts holding up steering wheel.



5) Remove five screws where dash meets the windshield.

6) Remove 2 bolts on the left and right side of the dash up against the side of truck (under kick panels)





7)Dashboard can now be pulled free toward seat.

8)On passenger side of dash tie rope or wire to flange where bolt went into side of truck and lift dash up to expose fan box. Secure rope to handle on side of A-post



9) Remove vacuum lines and unclip electrical connections. (Hint: temperature control cable has to be removed with pliers by pulling straight up, removing the entire clip.)



10) Now the secret: there are two screws holding the box to the firewall on the inside (one has ground wire attached.) The other is in the upper right hand corner facing up.




11)There are four nuts holding it from the engine side of the firewall (one nut is accessed by removing the electrical panel on passenger side.) Remove all four nuts.

12)Remove heater hoses by removing clamps. Mine were stuck so I just cut the hoses and got new ones.

13)Release A/C freon from LP side with gages and disconnect A/C lines from firewall exit. ( This requires a simple 5 dollar tool that disconnects fueland A/C connections.



14) The heater box will now come free!

15) There are several screws holding heater box together. It will come apart in two halves. Go ahead
and replace your heater core because you dont want to do this again in a month!

16)You may want to replace your accumulator as well (its fairly cheap)

17) Reassemble /reinstall box. Draw vacuum on A/C system for 30 mins. recharge with 134a.
 
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:49 PM
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Default RE: a/c evaporator replacement

I think the only thing missing here is the fact that the cable for the shifter should also be removed.You know the one for P R N D 2 1
 
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Old 09-02-2008, 04:37 PM
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Found something to add to this. To get the dash that far up and out you have to unbolt the two bolts that hold the metal dash bracket to the little piece in the middle of the truck on that hump. You remove that plastic cover with 2 screws then you unbolt the dash from each side and you can move it up more.

I however still have had no luck getting the A/C box or whatever it's called out. It just wont budge no matter how hard I pull. I took the 2 screws off the inside and the 4 off the outside then I took the 2 heater hoses off and the 2 a/c lines. Am I missing something? I'm hoping to finish getting this apart tonight and just put it all back together tomorrow with the new parts. If I get it back together and the new line with the orfice tube then all I will have left to do is change the compressor, run a vacuum on the system, then fill up with freon.
 
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Old 09-02-2008, 05:32 PM
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Yup. I figured it out now. The Evap core is out. What it was well, there were two screws you had to remove for the dash not listed above but for the heater box thing I removed the one nut with the ground wire thinking I got it. Not realizing there was another nut under the ground wire holding the box in. Once I removed that it came right out. This process took probably 5 hours maybe 6 well some of that was 30 minutes taking a break for the computer then 30 minutes for eating and such but it took that long to get it apart. I hopefully will have the parts to put it back together tomorrow.
 
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:14 PM
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What kind of oil do I want to use in the new compressor? I've heard Ester oil from one person but the sticker on the truck says something else. It says like SP-20 PAG Compressor oil or something of that nature. Not 100% sure on the numbers and letters. Is Ester oil okay or do I need to get that? Also which hole in the compressor do I put it in? The one labled with a D or S?
 
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Old 09-03-2008, 12:57 PM
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The new compressors instructions should tell you what type of oil to use. And you put it in through the low side port because the compressor is suppose to come with enough oil to charge it up and get it running. The oil will have the same connector on the can as it does on a 134a can.

And btw! As far as the oil goes, any oil that is compatible with r134a is fine. PAG will be listed on the can.
 
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:03 AM
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The compressor has a oil fill hole on it. You sure I put that in after I vacuum it? I didn't know that.

I've got the dash all back together and everything on the interior back together just waiting for parts like oil and a a/c line then hopefully I can finish this thing up.
 
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Old 09-04-2008, 08:35 AM
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Do you still have the old compressor? If you do, you need to drain and measure how much oil is in it. Now take the new one and drain it into a clean container and put back in the same amount that was in the old one. Put everything back together , and after you evac. the system add 4 oz. of oil through the low side port. At this point you will have or should have vacuum in the system and it will suck the oil in.
 
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Old 09-04-2008, 11:01 PM
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There's a fill curve in the FSM that's based on ambient temperature. Use that.
 
 



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