Snap ring removed.
Remove the O/D direct clutch pack snap ring. If it's still there. These things are notorious for snapping. Even if it looks good, replace it. It's cheap insurance at $3.75 or $4.00. This snap ring was the reason for my rebuild. Found about 7 different pieces of it in 7 different areas of the transmission.
Now relieve the pressure on the press and the 830 lb. spring. Now you can remove the O/D direct clutch pack from the housing revealing the large spring and thrust plate it sits on, and planetary assembly.
Remove the spring.
Spring removed. This is the thrust plate/spring seat/bearing race. Its held in place on the sun gear shaft by a snap ring so it can be removed and replaced if needed. If your not replacing it though, leave it on the shaft. The snap ring kicked my butt for some reason, but mine needed replaced. Also, if you have the old style without the oil grooves, I'm pretty sure there's an upgrade available.
Remove the shaft and race. There's a bearing thats either going to be stuck to the bottom of the race, or sitting on the planetary just below. Make note of the orientation of the shoulders on the bearing for assembly reference.
O/D planet to hub bearing stuck to the bottom of the bearing race. Note the inner shoulders of the bearing were facing down, or towards the read of the transmission.
O/D planet assembly. Remove it either using your fingers if your able to, or a pair of snap rings pliers which works pretty darn trick.
Now all that remains is the output shaft assembly, the O/D sprag and race (one way clutch), and the O/D direct clutch drum.
Remove the sprag and sprag hub using snap ring pliers. Again be careful not to lose any of the springs or rollers. Both sprags should be replaced if in your budget. Roughly $20.00 each.
Remove this bearing. The output shaft to sprag hub bearing. Note the orientation of the shoulders on the bearing for installation.
Stand the housing on 2 4x4's straddling the output shaft. Spread this snap ring open while pushing up on the output shaft. The snap ring sits in a groove on the body of the output shaft bearing. Remove the output shaft, direct clutch drum, ring gear, and output shaft bearing as an assembly.
Output shaft assembly. On the bottom is the O/D direct clutch drum. Just above that is the O/D ring gear. The output shaft itself. And the output shaft bearing. There are 3 snap rings holding all this assembly together.
Output shaft assembly.
Set the output shaft up on end with the direct clutch drum facing down. Remove the snap ring from the bearing on top. Then remove the bearing.
Index the direct clutch drum with the ring gear and the ring gear to the output shaft using a paint marker or center punch for assembly balance.
Remove the snap ring securing the output shaft to the ring gear. The output shaft should come loose and can be set aside for cleaning and inspection.
Remove the snap ring on the front side of the ring gear. It is inside the direct clutch drum. Once removed, the ring gear and direct clutch drum can be separated and set aside.
Clean and inventory everything. Next I knocked out all the brass bushings and pressed the replacements in. $150.00 for the press...already paid for itself in my opinion. Start with the output shaft bushing. You shouldn't have needed to order this bushing separate if you ordered the Sure Cure as its part of the kit. The bushing in the center of the shaft (the smallest one) is the one that comes with the Sure Cure. This ones pressed in and lubed with transjel along with the larger diameter bushing. Side note, my old bushing was in two pieces when I disassembled mine. Also, you can remove the parking rod pawl mechanism from the housing and clean and reinstall if you like. I didn't.
Install all the rest of your bushings that you intend on replacing. If you bought the WIT bushing kit, just knock one out at a time and match with the new bushing in the bag and reinstall.
Here's a pic of the sun gear bushings being pressed in.
Now it's just a matter of reassembling everything. I rebuilt the O/D first, then moved to the main case, then attached the two and did the valve body last.
Remove the old output shaft oil seal. I used a corresponding size socket and a hammer to knock mine out. There were actually two seals installed back to back. I guess sometimes people do this on rebuilds to ensure sealing of the output shaft inside and out. Heres a picture of the old seals I removed.
Install the output shaft oil seal making sure to lubricate the seal mating surface with transjel. Lube the seal itself liberally and pack some inside the seal lip on the back to keep the spring inside the seal in place.
In the main case, reinstall the servos and accumulator. Use the new seals/rings that came with your rebuild kit or shift kit. Lube the servo bores with ATF. In these pictures, they show the plastic style accumulator. I upgraded mine to a aluminum one. Not really sure what this helps, but aluminum is always stronger than plastic, and MonteC recommended this upgrade. So I upgraded.
Rear servo and acuumulator installed.
Installing front servo.
Air check the front servo.
Air check the rear servo.
Reassemble the output shaft, bearing, ring gear, and O/D direct drum and install the retaining snap rings. Make sure your index marks are aligned correctly.
Flip the output shaft assembly over and install the thrust washer. Make sure to place this bearing facing the correct direction or it will disintegrate and your tolerances will be wrong. The inner shoulders goes down, or toward the back of the transmission. The side your looking at goes up, or towards the front of the transmission. Soak it in some ATF for a few seconds.
Install the O/D sprag and note theres a lip on the inner diameter of the cage on the bottom side in this picture. This should be installed seated towards the bottom. This will also destroy itself if installed incorrectly. Careful not to jar or move any of the springs or rollers. This can also be lubed with some ATF.
Install the inner race for the sprag. Lube the outter diameter surface with transjel. You might have to rotate the race just right to get the grooves to line up with all the rollers and sink into place. This can be easier to use snap ring pliers to install it so you can hold it from the inside bore.
Race installed. Note its fully seated and flush with the roller cage. If installed correctly, it will only turn one direction. If incorrect, it will freewheel both ways.
Lube the sprag assembly once more with some ATF.
Next, seat the planetary into position aligning the gears with the ones on the ring gear. You can lube the gears in the planetary with transjel before installation.
Install the sun gear thrust bearing to the bottom of the plate making sure the shoulders are correctly positioned. The inner shoulders should be facing the bottom or rear of the transmission. You can use transjel liberally to secure the bearing to the bottom of the plate. You can also lubricate the splines on the gear with transjel.
Install the 830 lb. spring on its seat.
Now lube the inner splines on the O/D clutch hub and install it over the spring.
If you haven't already, soak your friction pack for the O/D direct clutch and O/D clutch in fresh ATF for at least 20 minutes. Now slide the bottom reaction plate over the hub making sure the skirted end faces down or towards the back of the transmission. The perfectly smooth edge should facing you or up and towards the front of the transmission.
Bottom (face this side down).
Top (this side should face up).
Now it's time to stack the clutch kit up.You can upgrade the 46RE O/D direct clutch pack to have more clutch surface like the 47RE. You can either order a thinner top pressure plate and add another friction, or you could also order a 47RE direct drum as it holds more frictions. Start with adding a friction on top of the bottom reaction plate. Also notice theres a home made alignment tool installed down the center of the hub through the sun gear shaft and down to the center bushing in the output shaft. This one is made from a severed intermediate shaft. You can use your intermediate shaft if you like, this is what I did. It just makes it a little harder when pressing the tension back onto the 830 lb. spring.
Keep stacking alternating friction then steel until you've got it stacked up almost to the top with enough room to install the pressure plate. Make sure and install the pressure plate with the step facing up towards you or to the front of the transmission. The step is there to accept the snap ring.
Now place the whole assembly back in the press. I had to cut a new piece of ABS pipe that was taller as my piece I originally cut wasn't tall enough to be able to press on the hub with the intermediate shaft installed as an alignment tool. Another advantage of having a severed intermediate shaft because its much shorter and my original piece of pipe I cut would have worked fine. You also might have to lower the legs on the press to accommodate the taller piece of pipe and intermediate shaft. Ok, two things that are very important to watch when your pressing this assembly back together are : a) watch the inner splines on the hub to be sure they are aligning with the sun gear shaft correctly. b) make sure the steps on the outsides of the clutch steels are not caught in a bind as you press. As you press everything together, you will be able to wiggle the clutch pack to get the steels and frictions to fall into place. Once you have them all down in the drum, put the retaining snap ring in.
Now install the center snap ring on the sun gear shaft.
Release the pressure on the press. The sun gear shaft should sit nice and flush with the top of the clutch hub. Maybe recessed the slightest. If it sits above the hub, something in your stackup is installed incorrectly.
Take the assembly off the press and get your case ready by supporting it by 2 4x4's on the ground or bench. The output shaft oil seal facing down. Slide the O/D and output assembly down into the housing using care not to damage the output shaft oil seal. Try and center the big output shaft bearing on the snap ring so when you spread it open, it falls into place easily. This is what the snap ring and bearing should look like when the snap ring is installed in the groove on the bearing properly. The output shaft and whole rotating assembly should spin nice and freely. Sometimes the bearing and assembly will fall past the snap ring preventing it from engaging, in this case just push up from the bottom of the output shaft. You should hear it snap into place.
Reinstall the access cover using the new gasket from your rebuild kit.
Now from the top, install the flat style snap ring in the groove just above the O/D direct drum.
Now installed the flat waved style snap ring.
Now get the O/D clutch frictions ready to install. The common 46RE has a 4 friction setup in this pack. You can upgrade this easily to hold another friction. All you do is substitute the top thick pressure plate with two more steels and a friction. Giving you 25% more friction surface.
Standard 46RE setup.
Upgraded 5 friction setup.
You substitute this thick pressure plate on the left, with 1 friction and two steels on the right, eliminating the pressure plate.
Install the bottom pressure plate first.
Keep stacking, alternating friction, steel and so forth until its stacked up.
Install the retaining round style snap ring.
Now we take a mesurement for the O/D thrust plate selectable washer. This washer being sized correctly is crucial for reverse and 3-4 shift. If its the wrong size, you could lose one or the other or both. I set two machined bars across the face of the housing and used those to measure from. The service manuals scale is based on using a .5000" (1/2") bar. Mine was .3950" so I had to do a little math to get my reading. Basically just added .105" to my reading. I struggled with getting this measurement to come out correctly. I took my O/D apart about 5 times I think until I got the measurement to add up correctly. Basically what threw me off was the steels in my old setup were thicker. So with the new thinner steels installed to allow for more frictions, I didn't have enough frictions and steels installed. Once I figured out the exact problem, it was fixed quickly. My measurement came out to 1.7415". So adding my .105" to that gave me 1.8465". This means I need the .198"-.200" shim. Make sure and take this measurement with the thrust bearing itself NOT in place. Place your straight edge across the housing allowing the bottom of the caliper to extend down the housing on to the top of the clutch hub. Take this measurement 4 times 90°'s apart. Average the 4 measurements to get your final measurement. This pic was from joels garage and he's working on a unit with the governor tubes in the extension housing in the upper right corner.
Now you can glue the bearing to the face of the hub using transjel. Make sure the bearing is facing the correct direction according to its shoulders.