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I am not up on Dodge axles so I have to ask, are your knuckles already drilled for high steer? And are they also machined flat tops? If not you will have to have that done to your knuckles if you can.
As far as the hydro assist it is great for helping to steer larger tires. It can also break parts because it puts a lot of force on your TRE's and knuckles.
Also you have to have your steering box drilled and tapped for hydro assist or buy a new box that already is. I think you need to figure out why you are having steering issues first. And then figure out why you're breaking stuff. Then we can figure out what you need to do.
Also another option for you is to replace all your TRE's with heim joints which are much stronger than TRE's. There are tons of things that can be done the question is money and how big do you want to go? That is most likely your best answer. Get 1 ton running gear like WK so you can run larger parts and you'll stop having as many problems. What you're doing with your truck is asking a lot from a D44 axle.
I was just reading up on the steering box drilling, right before I read your message.
The tie rod I broke was not a heavy duty one, and I hit some rocks a bit too quick. I also bent the inside of a rim when I broke it. It actually broke on the threaded splice area that is used for adjustments. I had to get a brace welded across the two locations to get me loaded on the truck.
When you say 1 ton running gear, are you talking an entire Dana 60 axle? I don't think I could stomach that after putting in the gears and trutrac locker. Or are there things like knuckles and other parts that I could beef up?
I'm pretty sure I will have to machine out the knuckles to put on the high steer.
No I am talking about replacing your current axles with Bigger Stronger ones. I know it sucks after you have just spent tons on your stock axles. Try the high steer and see how that holds up to your playing around. Since it was the actual tie rod you broke the kit you ordered will help there as you are getting DOM tubing as a tie rod now.
No I am talking about replacing your current axles with Bigger Stronger ones. I know it sucks after you have just spent tons on your stock axles. Try the high steer and see how that holds up to your playing around. Since it was the actual tie rod you broke the kit you ordered will help there as you are getting DOM tubing as a tie rod now.
Thanks, that sounds like a good plan. I appreciate the advice.
I was just reading up on the steering box drilling, right before I read your message.
The tie rod I broke was not a heavy duty one, and I hit some rocks a bit too quick. I also bent the inside of a rim when I broke it. It actually broke on the threaded splice area that is used for adjustments. I had to get a brace welded across the two locations to get me loaded on the truck.
When you say 1 ton running gear, are you talking an entire Dana 60 axle? I don't think I could stomach that after putting in the gears and trutrac locker. Or are there things like knuckles and other parts that I could beef up?
I'm pretty sure I will have to machine out the knuckles to put on the high steer.
Wildman gave you good feedback. You won't be able to use the histeer kit as intended, but it will still help. Here is a picture of the knuckle it would work on as an example. There are factory ones and aftermarket ones.
I don't know of anyone doing this on a RAM mostly due to cost of polishing a turd. Meaning the D44 under a heavy truck, especially how you're treating it is a time bomb really. Granted, you have done pretty darn well with it, like what I've done with mine the past, just not the damage. lol
I'm not even sure you could use the knuckles anyways if you found some locally (Ford) because of how the Dodge Balljoints are. Like WM said, then you'd attempt to machine the and tap the top. That assumes there is enough material there for the operation.
I'd be suspect of the balljoints due to the rim taking damage from that hit. Take a close look at those Inner C's for movement. The next place might be the CAD section of the axle tube.
For you to use the steering kit, you'd be drilling out the knuckles where the TRE go in. An insert goes in there to match the taper of the GM TRE in the kit. Same is done for the pitman arm, which is much larger diameter to drill out... 1". I suggest you have spare pitman arm and knuckles given your more remote location. The steering parts will be much more robust, however, it won't change the effort in steering. Binding up is still binding up.
Also ttackbar has to be modified if the HiSteer arms are used.
When you add the locker to the front, things will get worse.
Look up Redneck Ram for one of the lower priced hydro assist offerings.
Last edited by Wh1t3NuKle; 05-02-2016 at 10:58 AM.
Wildman gave you good feedback. You won't be able to use the histeer kit as intended, but it will still help. Here is a picture of the knuckle it would work on as an example. There are factory ones and aftermarket ones.
I don't know of anyone doing this on a RAM mostly due to cost of polishing a turd. Meaning the D44 under a heavy truck, especially how you're treating it is a time bomb really. Granted, you have done pretty darn well with it, like what I've done with mine the past, just not the damage. lol
I'm not even sure you could use the knuckles anyways if you found some locally (Ford) because of how the Dodge Balljoints are. Like WM said, then you'd attempt to machine the and tap the top. That assumes there is enough material there for the operation.
I'd be suspect of the balljoints due to the rim taking damage from that hit. Take a close look at those Inner C's for movement. The next place might be the CAD section of the axle tube.
For you to use the steering kit, you'd be drilling out the knuckles where the TRE go in. An insert goes in there to match the taper of the GM TRE in the kit. Same is done for the pitman arm, which is much larger diameter to drill out... 1". I suggest you have spare pitman arm and knuckles given your more remote location. The steering parts will be much more robust, however, it won't change the effort in steering. Binding up is still binding up.
Also ttackbar has to be modified if the HiSteer arms are used.
When you add the locker to the front, things will get worse.
Look up Redneck Ram for one of the lower priced hydro assist offerings.
I can't tell you how many times I've looked at auctions for salvage gas 2500's, to get it here for the front axle, and a parts vehicle, (maybe even an engine build and swap.
In fact, there is 20 minutes left in one right now, but it would be irresponsible of me to do that now, lol.
EDIT: http://www.salvagebid.com/847074722-...romWatchlist=1
875+550 fees + 1500shipping to honduras, I could have had a 2000 2500 V8gas parts car, lol. But then i would have been tempted into building a buggy instead.
The Bonefish one is on the right and doesn't have wearable parts like a regular one. Check out the site and it is all explained. And if you hadn't just bought that TruTrac I could have shown you a way to install stronger gears.
Last edited by Wildman4x4nut; 05-04-2016 at 12:17 AM.
The Bonefish one is on the right and doesn't have wearable parts like a regular one. Check out the site and it is all explained. And if you hadn't just bought that TruTrac I could have shown you a way to install stronger gears.
Yes but you only have to buy them ONCE. The bushing that you have to replace isn't that expensive. Have you looked at the price of Dynatrac's ball joints they sell? If you figure the initial expense but then only $18 for new bushings it really isn't that bad. Of course you'd have to keep the truck long enough to have to replace the ball joints. But when you're running larger tires it can be a lot sooner.
05-02-2016, 01:07 AM
