Steering play
#1
#2
Grab a friend. Park said friend in drivers seat. Open hood. Have friend turn the key far enough to unlock the steering, truck does not have to be running, or, even in the "on" position. Have friend GENTLY rock steering wheel back and forth. You start looking at the ENTIRE linkage, from the base of the column, all the way out to the knuckles. See what moves, that shouldn't, and replace it. Also pay attention to things that AREN'T moving, that SHOULD be. From above, you will be able to see the steering shaft turning, and the pitman arm should be moving. If the shaft moves a bit, but the pitman arm hardly moves, time for a new steering box.
You could possibly adjust it up some, and maybe get a bit more life out of it.... procedure for that is detailed in the FSM, there is also a brief DIY in the FAQ/DIY section here.
If you replace the box, get a GOOD ONE. Borgeson, or Redhead. The reman guys will leave you in the same position, with a lighter wallet....
You could possibly adjust it up some, and maybe get a bit more life out of it.... procedure for that is detailed in the FSM, there is also a brief DIY in the FAQ/DIY section here.
If you replace the box, get a GOOD ONE. Borgeson, or Redhead. The reman guys will leave you in the same position, with a lighter wallet....
#3
left/right play in the steering wheel while sitting still?
tighten it up using this.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ering-box.html
tighten it up using this.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ering-box.html
#4
Rocksolid steering fix is only for the clunking in column.
+1 on the checking for worn components underneath such as sdler, putman arm and tie rods and ball joints. And if and when these are good, then adjustment on gearbox.
Adjusting gearbox will NOT compensate for the worn steering parts. And adjusting will only help slightly on worn gearbox. And ....
+1 on the Borgenson or Redhead. Rebuilt, poorly designed and built gearbox is still a weak and poior gear box! Costs a little more, but lasts a lot longer with better steering control.
+1 on the checking for worn components underneath such as sdler, putman arm and tie rods and ball joints. And if and when these are good, then adjustment on gearbox.
Adjusting gearbox will NOT compensate for the worn steering parts. And adjusting will only help slightly on worn gearbox. And ....
+1 on the Borgenson or Redhead. Rebuilt, poorly designed and built gearbox is still a weak and poior gear box! Costs a little more, but lasts a lot longer with better steering control.
#5
but, i'll disagree on how much it can improve a steering box. my truck had several inches of movement in the steering wheel and was just about undriveable. 5 minutes of adjustment saved me several hundred dollars from not replacing the box. it was like a new truck, and still doing good 6 years later. 6 years, damn i'm starting to get my money's worth out of this junky sob.
#6
true that it won't compensate for worn front end parts.
but, i'll disagree on how much it can improve a steering box. my truck had several inches of movement in the steering wheel and was just about undriveable. 5 minutes of adjustment saved me several hundred dollars from not replacing the box. it was like a new truck, and still doing good 6 years later. 6 years, damn i'm starting to get my money's worth out of this junky sob.
but, i'll disagree on how much it can improve a steering box. my truck had several inches of movement in the steering wheel and was just about undriveable. 5 minutes of adjustment saved me several hundred dollars from not replacing the box. it was like a new truck, and still doing good 6 years later. 6 years, damn i'm starting to get my money's worth out of this junky sob.
Not saying that adjusting may not have significant impact on play. In fact, it can as you say. But the proper way to correct steering issues is to replace the worn parts such as tie rod ends and joints, then to adjust the gearbox. The adjustment sets pressure on ball screw and mechanism, which by nature needs some clearance. But it cannot compensate enough to eliminate or even improve the other wear. Proper operation requires that all mechanical components (as well as the hydraulic) are within acceptable tolerances and wear, and properly adjusted. As the gerabox ages and wears, adjustment is required to properly operate, until which time that it cannot be adjusted to compensate for wear within.
I just wwnat others to know that both are required, and one should come before attempting the other.