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redneck_rams 360 build thread

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Old 01-24-2013, 02:46 PM
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Default redneck_rams 360 build thread

well, going to be camming my truck. let me hear your thoughts on cam style for low end grunt, with some good lopey sound.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:53 PM
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You won't get a bumpy idle with a cam designed for low-end.

Look for something with an operating range from idle, to 5K. They are out there. Won't be an absolute powerhouse on the freeway, but, for towing/plowing, you will definitely like it.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:14 PM
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ok, so i found these 5 cams, theyre all within the same range of each other... my 318 has flat top pistons, so which of these could i get away with running the 1.7's with? extremely new to the internal motor world. havent touched any of that stuff before.

what do yall think?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-744-9

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-704121

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-608-9

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-34418

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-704111
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:17 PM
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Aren't you getting the odessa EQ heads? I think those come with springs good up to .515, so the 4th one would need bigger springs.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:18 PM
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Aren't you getting the odessa EQ heads? I think those come with springs good up to .515, so the 4th one would need bigger springs.
no im not getting the eq heads, im getting factory replacements from odessa, and will install better springs if needed.
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Old 01-24-2013, 03:26 PM
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Oh I gotcha. Then I retract my statement
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:03 PM
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I'm thinking about this one with EQ monster heads and 1.6 rockers. Thoughts?

Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5 .480
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5 .487"

Intake Valve Lift 1.6 .512"
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6 .520"

Intake Duration at .050" 208
Exhaust Duration at .050" 214

Lobe Separation Angle 114
Intake Centerline 111
Intake Opening at .050" -7 BTC
Exhaust Opening at .050" 44 BBC

Intake Closing at .050" 35 ABC
Exhaust Closing at .050" -10 ATC

Min. Suggested Cylinder PSI 165

Sweet Spot RPM Idle - 5500
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:11 PM
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what motor do you have? you may run into valve to piston clearance with those 2.02 valves
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:19 PM
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318. Truck has 255000+ on it so a bottom end freshing is needed soon. Rings, pistons etc.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:41 PM
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have you done a compression test? if you get anything over 100 psi you are good. if you want more compression could could try filling the cylinders with gas. i can't say for sure but i think that is why i see 150+psi on all the cylinders in my 81. when i first got it the engine would literally flood with gas to the point the starter could not turn the engine over. i am guessing at the same time it removed all the carbon and crap from the rings and allowed the rings to seal better. just had to do lots of oil changes after.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
have you done a compression test? if you get anything over 100 psi you are good. if you want more compression could could try filling the cylinders with gas. i can't say for sure but i think that is why i see 150+psi on all the cylinders in my 81. when i first got it the engine would literally flood with gas to the point the starter could not turn the engine over. i am guessing at the same time it removed all the carbon and crap from the rings and allowed the rings to seal better. just had to do lots of oil changes after.
im gonna do a compression test here in the coming days(if it gets warmer). curious to find out what my numbers are. if theyre too low, i may just look for a 360 short block, and swap that in.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:27 PM
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don't forget the engine has to been run for a few minutes before you do the test and don't forget to hold the throttle open while doing the test. also don't forget about doing a wet test after you do a dry test. then you know exactly what shape your engine is in.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:31 PM
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don't forget the engine has to been run for a few minutes before you do the test and don't forget to hold the throttle open while doing the test. also don't forget about doing a wet test after you do a dry test. then you know exactly what shape your engine is in.
this isnt my first rodeo... but thank you kind sir!
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:36 PM
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just making sure. i know there are some other people around here that may not know.
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Old 01-24-2013, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
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just making sure. i know there are some other people around here that may not know.
very true. ive done it before, only once, but ive done it before. im not going to do a wet test, cause if the dry numbers are low, im just gonna get a 360 short block.

speaking of... anyone know where i can buy a long, or short block?
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:10 PM
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but if you don't do a wet test you won't know if you have had rings or bad heads.

rockauto has some long blocks but if you go for a 5.9 you may have to hit the junkyards or or CL for a core.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
but if you don't do a wet test you won't know if you have had rings or bad heads.

rockauto has some long blocks but if you go for a 5.9 you may have to hit the junkyards or or CL for a core.
i already know i have cracked heads. how much oil do i put in the cc? im used to imports...
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:29 PM
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Leak down test will tell you more. Do you have a compressor? Do a google search on how to build one (tester). Don't go buy a short or long block off the web call around to a few machine shops in your area and see what they have to say, see what they have on the shelves or have them build it to your specs. A motor should be a person to person thing not a web thing. An average cost to rebuild a 5.9 up here is $1800 should be cheaper down there.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:36 PM
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i just squirt a squirt or 2 of oil from my oiling can but if you know your head are cracked i guess it does not make that much difference.

did you know you can screw an air fitting right into the spark plug hole? i just think you would need to get rid of the stupid heat shields thing to hook an air line to it.
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:53 PM
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so im ordering the m1, install kit, mopar hardened push rods, and lifters from chrysler parts direct for a whopping 590.75, not including shipping. im gonna go to my local dealer with the part #'s tomorrow, and use my old works discount, and see what the cost will be. hoping it will be cheaper!

also, ordering the crane cam, and getting the odessa head custom built by odessa for my needs, with new springs to work with the cam!
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Last edited by redneck_ram; 01-24-2013 at 09:59 PM..
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