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Need help! Upgraded cam and bored engine block. Do i need special heads?

  #11  
Old 04-09-2014, 07:41 PM
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They will work but make sure you get them checked at the machine shop first.


Don't Hold your breathe on them not being cracked

Obviously if they're cracked they will not work.
 
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Old 04-09-2014, 10:56 PM
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There's a pretty good chance your heads are going to be cracked. My machine shop told me to not even bother bringing my stock heads in. The tech was familiar with these engines and knew that they'd more than likely be cracked. I've bought a set of heads from Odessa before, and they will take your cam specs and put the proper springs on the heads. Just give Keith from Odessa a call at 727-299-9058 and see what he says.
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 08:37 PM
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Thanks for all the responses. I am going to be calling Odessa soon and hopefully they can hook me up with the heads with all the proper parts. I've heard other people say with the new cam, heads, etc. I will need to put more air through. I planned on putting a cold air intake on the truck with a large K&N filter, do you think this will be enough or do I need a whole new and improved system? Also my truck is a 95 so it is not ODBII, what should I do as far as programing goes?

Thanks again, like I said this is my first build so I kinda need alot of help.
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:11 PM
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Just keep the stock airbox and put a K&N drop in in it.

Programming you have two options as far as I know

Mopar performence pcm

Or there is a company you can send your pcm into and they will reprogram it.

As far as air in air out your biggest choke point is that terrible y pipe all the early models got. Replace that to see biggest improvement for the money as far as exhaust goes
 
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Old 04-10-2014, 09:34 PM
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what kind of pistons did you use? 318's are .480 max lift, period! flat top pistons kill clearance.

also, you may have vacuum issues with that cam. which lead to potential brake issues. good luck on your build!!

im enjoying my 360, wish i had done it a bit different though...
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:40 PM
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I bought this block complete with the new cam, pistons, injectors, machined out and and put together for $650. It was in great condition and i figured it was actually less than getting my original machined out and the parts for it. It has flat top pistons right now. If I am understanding this correctly the upgraded cam will increase how far up the cylinder the piston goes. If the piston goes to high it will interfere with the valves on the heads. And the flat top will hit the heads but the flatop pistons with valve relief will give it the extra room it needs to fully extend and not hit the heads? If in fact the flatop pistons cannot be used with the cam is it possible to have a shop mill out the heads and make valve reliefs or would I need to purchase new pistons?
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:42 PM
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and Ham Bone... I've heard its very difficult to find the Mopar Performance PCM for some reason.
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 07:44 PM
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How far the piston goes is determined by the stroke, which is a property of the crankshaft. Camshaft determines how far the valves open. (pushing them further into the cylinder.) If the valve opens to far, and meets the piston on its way up, you are done. Do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars. I would check piston to valve clearance before I even considered firing that motor up. (machine shop can do that for you.) If necessary, they can cut the pistons to clear the valves.
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 08:22 PM
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Gotcha, thanks for the correction. On the sticker to the cam it says "VALVE LIFT: .480 .512". As redneck pointed out the max on the 318 motor is .480, so where does this leave me? I assume this means the cam lifts it .480 so it should work? And I will definitely be bringing it to town to get all checked out before dropping it back in the truck. Too much time and money to mess it up!!
 
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:46 PM
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Intake lift is .480, Exhaust lift is .512.... which is beyond the limits of the stock valve springs. Don't know if you will have piston to valve interference with that lift. (not that familiar with the 318) That is why I suggest having the machine shop check clearance.
 

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