For all you A/C experts, (definatly not self included) my A/C compressor seized up and I need to get the system back on line.
What all should be replaced after a failure of the compressor?
I plan on doing the removal/install and letting a local shop do thevaccum and fill.

Thanks!

 

im not an A/C expert, but what I get from experts from all shops and walks of life is the apparent need to replace the filter/drier. I haven't had any A/C mechanic warrant their work without it. Also, the compressor I got from a supplier had stated on its warranty that it assumes the warranty is only good when properly installed, blah blah blah, meaning: replace the F/D.

Another shop I went to asked thatI replace the Thermostatic Control Valve. The TCV didn't cost too much and the system was getting on in years, and itis a vital moving partalthough no system diagnostics to say it failed. Its just a replace it while your having the work done kinda thing.

 

Along with the compressor, the accumulator MUST be replaced. Then the orifice tube Must be replaced. Don't know if the '99 O tube is in the condenser outlet or if that's the year they moved it to the liquid line. If in the liquid line, then the whole line must be replaced. But, before ANYTHING is put back together, you MUST flush the entire system. What happens when the compressor fails is, it pushes all of its innards through the system gunking up the condenser, O tube, Evap, etc. The condensor will have to come out to flush it. as do all the lines. The evaporator can stay in place, just flush through the tubes. If you do not flush the system COMPLETELY, your new compressor will fail too. Maybe not right away, maybe next season, but it WILL fail again. A flush system doesn't have to be used. It can be flushed with mineral spirits and compressed air if you have access to a compressor. It's a sloppy job but necessary. When done flushing, dry system w/brake parts cleaner and blow with compressed air. You could also remove what needs to be replaced and take the truck to a shop to have it flushed. Just don't skip this most important step. Also, drain and flush the new compressor with fresh oil before replacing it...even if it comes with oil in it. Then add an 2ounces of oil (PAG100) in the condenser, the evap., the accumulator, and the remaining amount in the compressor. 6.2oz. system capacity. Rotate the compressor by hand a dozen or so times with the new oil in it to distribute it through the compressor.
Do it right, do it once!
WC

 

Thanks Gone Campin and Wayne!

I'll be lookin' into getting the parts this week. Looks almost like a "firewall forward" replacement. Hate to see the bill on these parts!!!!

Any thoughts on new/reman. versus picking something up at the junk yard?

Thanks again

 

If you can afford a new one, or if you plan on keeping your truck long term, you will be glad. I've done one junkyard (excuse me, salvage yard) and one re-man on a suburban before I went with a new compressor.. both failed within 6 months.. NEW one lasted over five years till I sold it. Don't forget the orifice, cheap small part but necessary.

 

Orifice tube/expansion valve - has a screen to catch metal parts when the compressor shreds. This is a mandatory part to get a warranty on the compressor, or at least it was when I bought a new one.

 

Thanks all, after doing some parts searches, see where the O tube, drier, condenser are required for warranty and just a good idea to replace at this time. Think I'll go w/ new and stay away from the "salvage" yard as atcsat64 suggests. FL is too hot for the chance of another failure!

Have looked at the parts on http://www.discountacparts.com/Seem's OK unless someone can tell me different.