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- Dodge Ram 2nd Gen How to Replace A/C Evaporator
Step by step instructions for the do-it-yourself repairs.
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a/c evaporator replacement
#101
03-09-2010, 10:26 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: California
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A cab fresh filter. I never would have thought of something like that... but I like it.
When it comes to the heater hose, which one? At RockAuto there are a few of them to choose from? Any recommendations? I'm not sure if I will even need one until I get in there. Perhaps I will see if my local Kragen/Napa/Auto Zone has one and if I need it just run down and pick it up.
Do they make form fitting form for the area you used the water pipe wrap? Just curious really, because I really like your idea. It's functional and cheap.
When it comes to the heater hose, which one? At RockAuto there are a few of them to choose from? Any recommendations? I'm not sure if I will even need one until I get in there. Perhaps I will see if my local Kragen/Napa/Auto Zone has one and if I need it just run down and pick it up.
Do they make form fitting form for the area you used the water pipe wrap? Just curious really, because I really like your idea. It's functional and cheap.
#102
03-10-2010, 08:52 PM
I would add THIS to assist in preventing the above picture. I'll be replacing my core this spring and adding a cab-fresh filter assembly is one thing I'll be doing. Besides, they spread liquid manure around these parts...good gawd does that smell bad! Carbon filter might help that just a little bit.
#103
04-27-2010, 12:00 PM
Captain
here's my situation:
no access to tools (a/c tools, vacuum tools, really any tools),i'll have to go buy some sockets and so on, live in apartment with no shop. my evap. is leaking, possibly compressor or possibly condenser
my plan is to try and follow this DIY for removing evap. and heater core. i'll need to double check if the compressor is leaking or the conden. once i establish that, i can remove the problem. my question is, once i complete the HVAC removal and get everything plugged up, can i drive my truck without doing ANYTHING to the a/c after just servicing it? i would like to drive it to a local shop who i trust for them to finish with the a/c. so what would be my best COA be? i am thinking to just do the HVAC part myself and have the shop do the compressor and a/c work. if i mess with the compressor, i'll have to do the oil and flush the system etc. i figured the most laborious part is the HVAC. TIA
no access to tools (a/c tools, vacuum tools, really any tools),i'll have to go buy some sockets and so on, live in apartment with no shop. my evap. is leaking, possibly compressor or possibly condenser
my plan is to try and follow this DIY for removing evap. and heater core. i'll need to double check if the compressor is leaking or the conden. once i establish that, i can remove the problem. my question is, once i complete the HVAC removal and get everything plugged up, can i drive my truck without doing ANYTHING to the a/c after just servicing it? i would like to drive it to a local shop who i trust for them to finish with the a/c. so what would be my best COA be? i am thinking to just do the HVAC part myself and have the shop do the compressor and a/c work. if i mess with the compressor, i'll have to do the oil and flush the system etc. i figured the most laborious part is the HVAC. TIA
#104
04-27-2010, 12:49 PM
#105
05-13-2010, 06:19 PM
Captain
how do you remove the lines that are on top of the compressor? i heard there are some o rings under there that may be leaking and i wanna replace those.
do yall think theres a good chance its just the o rings leaking? i really couldn't tell how else the compressor would be leaking. i took the truck to the local shop yesterday just to confirm what was leaking. it is my evap core and compressor. the thing is, we couldn't tell what exactly was leaking on the compressor bc the detection was picking up the leak near the o rings and some switch? what switch was he talkin about? tia
do yall think theres a good chance its just the o rings leaking? i really couldn't tell how else the compressor would be leaking. i took the truck to the local shop yesterday just to confirm what was leaking. it is my evap core and compressor. the thing is, we couldn't tell what exactly was leaking on the compressor bc the detection was picking up the leak near the o rings and some switch? what switch was he talkin about? tia
#107
06-24-2010, 02:07 PM
Legend
how do you remove the lines that are on top of the compressor? i heard there are some o rings under there that may be leaking and i wanna replace those.
do yall think theres a good chance its just the o rings leaking? i really couldn't tell how else the compressor would be leaking. i took the truck to the local shop yesterday just to confirm what was leaking. it is my evap core and compressor. the thing is, we couldn't tell what exactly was leaking on the compressor bc the detection was picking up the leak near the o rings and some switch? what switch was he talkin about? tia
do yall think theres a good chance its just the o rings leaking? i really couldn't tell how else the compressor would be leaking. i took the truck to the local shop yesterday just to confirm what was leaking. it is my evap core and compressor. the thing is, we couldn't tell what exactly was leaking on the compressor bc the detection was picking up the leak near the o rings and some switch? what switch was he talkin about? tia
#108
06-24-2010, 03:56 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW Indiana
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#109
06-24-2010, 07:05 PM
#110
01-28-2011, 08:39 PM
Ok here is how to replace your a/c evaporator and/or heater core.
1) Disconnect battery cable
2) Remove first screw on door sill both sides ( these are the pieces that hold your carpet down)
3) Remove kick panels and panel under steering wheel.
4) Remove two nuts holding up steering wheel.
5) Remove five screws where dash meets the windsheild.
6) Remove 2 bolts on the left and right side of the dash up against the side of truck (under kick panels)
7)Dashboard can now be pulled free toward seat.
8)On passenger side of dash tie rope or wire to flange where bolt went into side of truck and lift dash up
to expose fan box. Secure rope to handle on side of A-post
9) Remove vaccuum lines and unclip electrical connections. (Hint: temperature control cable has to be
removed with pliers by pulling straight up, removing the entire clip.)
10) Now the secret: there are two screws holding the box to the firewall on the inside (one has ground
wire attached.) The other is in the upper right hand corner facing up.
11)There are four nuts holding it from the engine side of the firewall (one nut is accessed by removing the
electircal panel on passenger side.) Remove all four nuts.
12)Remove heater hoses by removing clamps. Mine were stuck so I just cut the hoses and got new ones.
13)Release A/C freon from LP side with gages and disconnect A/C lines from firewall exit. ( This
requires a simple 5 dollar tool that disconnects fueland A/C connections.
14) The heater box will now come free!
15) There are several screws holding heater box together. It will come apart in two halves. Go ahead
and replace your heater core because you dont want to do this again in a month!
16) You may want to replace your accumulator as well (its fairly cheap)
17) Reassemble /reinstall box. Draw vaccuum on A/C system for 30 mins. recharge with 134a.
YOUR DONE AND YOU SAVED HUNDREDS!
1) Disconnect battery cable
2) Remove first screw on door sill both sides ( these are the pieces that hold your carpet down)
3) Remove kick panels and panel under steering wheel.
4) Remove two nuts holding up steering wheel.
5) Remove five screws where dash meets the windsheild.
6) Remove 2 bolts on the left and right side of the dash up against the side of truck (under kick panels)
7)Dashboard can now be pulled free toward seat.
8)On passenger side of dash tie rope or wire to flange where bolt went into side of truck and lift dash up
to expose fan box. Secure rope to handle on side of A-post
9) Remove vaccuum lines and unclip electrical connections. (Hint: temperature control cable has to be
removed with pliers by pulling straight up, removing the entire clip.)
10) Now the secret: there are two screws holding the box to the firewall on the inside (one has ground
wire attached.) The other is in the upper right hand corner facing up.
11)There are four nuts holding it from the engine side of the firewall (one nut is accessed by removing the
electircal panel on passenger side.) Remove all four nuts.
12)Remove heater hoses by removing clamps. Mine were stuck so I just cut the hoses and got new ones.
13)Release A/C freon from LP side with gages and disconnect A/C lines from firewall exit. ( This
requires a simple 5 dollar tool that disconnects fueland A/C connections.
14) The heater box will now come free!
15) There are several screws holding heater box together. It will come apart in two halves. Go ahead
and replace your heater core because you dont want to do this again in a month!
16) You may want to replace your accumulator as well (its fairly cheap)
17) Reassemble /reinstall box. Draw vaccuum on A/C system for 30 mins. recharge with 134a.
YOUR DONE AND YOU SAVED HUNDREDS!
There is one thing that I would like to pass on concerning the heater box...please make sure that blend doors line up in the box...and test the "hot/cold door while the box is out to make sure it is in the proper position. I didn't and now I have to take it all apart AGAIN!!!! GRRRRR!!!