*noobie wanna be mechanic raises hand*

Is there a DIY on all that should be done on Tune-up for a 1998 1500 V8 5.9l?

Should I even do one if everything seems to be running okay? A friend told me not to waste my time but since I've owned it (15k ago) I've haven't done much more than oil changes, transmission fluid replacement and well most other liquids.

 

Typically, a tune-up consists of plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter and air filter. However, on our trucks, the fuel filter is in the tank so that's out. But everything else you can do. Might be good to run seafoam or MCCC (mopar combustion chamber cleaner) through it to clean it out good. If it's running well, you're ok. Pull a couple plugs and check them. Discolored, black, white, corroded, or wide gap should be replaced. You want a tan like color. Replace one plug and wire at a time so they don't get mixed up. Same with the cap, just swap each wire separately to the new cap. When pulling the wires, grab as low as you can to the heat shield and it will 'pop' out kinda hard. You'll need an extension to reach the plugs. Tighten the new ones just by hand so they can be removed again. Some anti-sieze helps, but I've never needed it. Brand is your choice. Some like Autolite plugs as they run cooler but they pinged bad in mine. I love Champion Truck plugs #4071 and Champions were stock anyway. Cap and rotor should be brass. Air filter, take your pick. I've run stock, fram and KN drop-in. The KN definitely helped in power. Pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual and start working! Good luck. Hope this helps.

 

just remember this. 18436572. Memorise that like your ssn.

Not too much involved in a tune up anymore. like ramman said; plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters. Most of the time you dont even need to do anything but filters. Read the plugs, see if they are good. Wires usuially are good for a decent life (I usuially change them every 30, but 50 is a good interval). Cap, if its cracked or broken in any way, or about the same time as wires. Rotor if its got carbon all over the metal or the tip is worn, about the same as the cap/wires. Some people say 100k for wires,cap,and rotor, I prefer sooner.

 

Ok Indy you can't tell memorize "18436572" and not tell me why or what that is!



Air Filter will be changed this weekend, will check plugs and oil change near future.

Does installing a K&N oil filter make any difference or have any benifit?

 

this is a good TSB to print out
and have on hand
when replacing ignition wires

it is easy to mistakenly swap
#6 and #8

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm

it is alway a good idea to look over all the TSB's that apply to your model year Ram

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/group_18.htm

Magnecor and NGK make high quality ignition wires

dielectric grease is worth it

 

I believe "18436572" is the firing order for the cylinders.

I'd recommend a Mobil1, K&N, or Wix oil filter. I've always used Mobil1 or K&N, but recently I've heard really good things about Wix, and they seem to be built just as good as a K&N/Mobil1. I'll be trying one out next oil change.

Stay away from Fram. They use cardboard and paper on the insides of the filters, absolutely worthless and restrict oil flow way too much. Mopar filters are rebranded, and could be one of several different manufacturers. I'd say probably stay away from them as well.

I've seen several studies done by different people who've cut open the filters (including a local parts store), and those three that I recommended are the top contenders I've seen. There are probably other good ones out there as well though, depending on your location.

For example... a lot of guys here recommend Royal Purple oil. I cannot find it anywhere in any of my local parts stores here... including Advance Auto and Checkers.

I'm sure some of the other guys here have more suggestions for ya.

 

yea, its the fireing order. Even though its on the manifold it saves a lot of time to know what wire goes where on the distributor. Saves even more time than trying to transfer 1 wire at a time. Thats also a cumbersome process.

 

Ok thank you guys

 

There is a picture somewhere as I've seen it posted on here before thats nice to keep handy when doing the wires and it shows you which cylinder # is which and where it connects on the dist. cap.

As for oil I run Purolator Pure One oil filters and Royal Purple oil in my truck. I've been fairly happy with this setup and have been doing it mostly since I've had the truck.

In the old Honda I used to run a K&N filter and Royal purple oil but the only thing different I noticed about the K&N was it was nice to have that nut on the end sometimes. Made changing it easier. I now run Purolator regular filters on that to cut down the cost.
I switched back to regular oil for one oil change then ended up going back to RP as I keep cases of it so I didn't want to run to the store to get oil so just used what I had in the garage.

On the new Honda I run Royal Purple Oil and OEM Honda filters. I have done this ever since the 3rd oil change. The first one was free at the dealer and it went back for the second one then after that I've done them with RP oil.

On the Chevy I have run RP oil since I've had it with the exception of the first time. They were sold out of what I needed so I ran Mobil 1. Ever since then I've run RP with AC Delco filters. Honestly I don't see spending the extra on a K&N filter but it's up to you.