Ok, before leaving work today (32 miles from home) I check the PCM wire harness connections and left for home. About 10 miles down the road at 35mph it died. 5 minutes later I started it and drove the rest of the way home. At home, I located the pre-cat and post-cat 02 sensors. Both have 4 wires coming out of them. Their wires go into a harness and run between the motor and firewall to where I couldn't tell. I read the link on testing 02 sensors, I think I'll nee a little more step by step, any assistance on how to test these sensors would be appreciated. What are my odds that its a failing coil as mentioned above? Thanks, Frank

 

Also, no one has mentioned the possibility of my problem being the distributor pickup plate (coil). A faulty one in my 1988 Ramcharger (318) led me down this same path - I'd be driving down the freeway and the vehicle would be instantly dead - no sputtering - no diagnostics. My shop tech didn't think it could be this. I'd like to hear from someone before I spend $50 on this possibility. Anyway, the coil is my next try - I'll post after I install and try it out. Frank

 

That sounds like the typical Ram fuel pump problem.
As the fuel pump electric motor gets old
and the suction filter below the pump get mostly clogged with crud
either the pump begins 'cavitating' and you lose fuel pressure
and the engine sputters and dies
or
the temperature sensitive circuit breaker embedded in electric motor winding
opens up from overheat
and your fuel pressure falls to zero

either way the engine either runs extremely rough or completely dies,
but no code is set in the PCM computer memory
because these Magnum engines don't have a sensor for fuel pressure

if you end up changing the fuel pump assembly
consider tilting up the cargo box from the driver's side
as it is easier than dropping the tank,
and remove the 'roll over valve' from its rubber bung
very carefully and gently
because most replacement fuel pump assemblies expect you
to re-use this part

good luck

 

Thanks Hank,
Both times it has died on me (two drive days in a row) I have been driving at a constant speed (60mph and 35mph) and when it died it died instantly - no sputtering. I'm going to go ahead and replace the coil tonight and drive it to work on Tuesday. I guess I'll try the fuel pump if it's not the coil.

Thanks,

Frank

 

Wait! Don't just replace random parts! I'm just suggesting what it could be, not what it is. You'll have to test to be sure, unless you just want to rebuild the whole engine to be sure. Coils can be tested for spark with a spark tester, you need not replace until you're sure.

You can also check fuel line pressure via the schrader valve on the fuel rail. you can rev the engine while checking to see if it fluctuates. Rail pressure should be 45-49 psi (the closer to 49 the better).

 

Thanks, can I check the fuel pressure with a regular tire pressure gage?

By the way, I replaced the coil and the distributor pickup plate (camshaft position sensor) last night - if it fixes it I don't care which is bad. I drove it to work this morning (32mi) with no problem. This afternoon might be the test since it has died both times for me on the way home (each incident within 5 miles of each other).

This should be the end of my trial and error efforts. Auto Zone quoted a PCM at $350 - I assume a fuel pump assembly is about the same.

Thanks,

Frank

 

Died again today but different. Installed so far are crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, and ignition coil. Made it to work (32mi) just fine this morning. Started to leave at 4pm 95deg farenheit - I started it and let it run about 2 minutes and started out of the parking and it died after about 20feet but this time the gages didn't all go dead and all the lights like check eng and airbags didn't come on. It started right up and I drove it 32 miles home with no problem. Hopefully the parking lot stall was a fluke.

I'm going to drive it again tomorrow and will probably stop at Auto Zone to see if the have a pressure gage that will fit on the fuel rail pressure test valve.

Frank

 

did you ever figure out your problem?

 

I'm not sure. My wife found a lot of threads on the internet where people had the exact same problem as us. Some solved it by removing the plug (rectangular with lots of wires - next to the battery on our 99 ram 1500) from the computer and scraping all of the male connection plugs, blowing out and pluging back in (has a phillips screw in the top middle of the plug). My old mechanic told me that he had fixed similar yr model dodges several times by cleaning the contacts at this plug. I drove it today (the high outdoor temp was 85F) to work and back with no probem. I guess time and miles will tell. Thanks for inquiring. Frank

 

I have a 1994 dodge ram 1500 and I gave full tune up and engine still studders and has new plugs wires cap and rotor I was told the crank sensor was weak is this common?