Anyone have a DIY writeup on replacing a brake booster?
#1
Anyone have a DIY writeup on replacing a brake booster?
It looks rather simple... a couple of bolts in the back of the booster, an two bolts holding the master cyl on. Then move the master cyl out of the way as best you can with out messing up the lines, and disconnect it from the brake pedal and pull it out?
Also, would getting a booster for a 2500 or 3500 make braking better?
*Reason for replacing*
I did a forum search on hard braking and found that with a firm brake pedal and no real gain as you press further it tends to be a bad booster. I can also hear a hissing sound, I should have known it was the booster when my son asked if I had "air brakes" on my truck. Funny how it hits you after the fact...
Thanks!
Also, would getting a booster for a 2500 or 3500 make braking better?
*Reason for replacing*
I did a forum search on hard braking and found that with a firm brake pedal and no real gain as you press further it tends to be a bad booster. I can also hear a hissing sound, I should have known it was the booster when my son asked if I had "air brakes" on my truck. Funny how it hits you after the fact...
Thanks!
#2
A Hayes manual should have the instuctions for getting the booster out. http://dodgeram.org/tech/new00/new_for_00.htm 2000-01 1500 trucks have a compact booster. I dont know if it will make your truck stop better, though it is something to look into.
#3
It looks rather simple... a couple of bolts in the back of the booster, an two bolts holding the master cyl on. Then move the master cyl out of the way as best you can with out messing up the lines, and disconnect it from the brake pedal and pull it out?
Also, would getting a booster for a 2500 or 3500 make braking better?
*Reason for replacing*
I did a forum search on hard braking and found that with a firm brake pedal and no real gain as you press further it tends to be a bad booster. I can also hear a hissing sound, I should have known it was the booster when my son asked if I had "air brakes" on my truck. Funny how it hits you after the fact...
Thanks!
Also, would getting a booster for a 2500 or 3500 make braking better?
*Reason for replacing*
I did a forum search on hard braking and found that with a firm brake pedal and no real gain as you press further it tends to be a bad booster. I can also hear a hissing sound, I should have known it was the booster when my son asked if I had "air brakes" on my truck. Funny how it hits you after the fact...
Thanks!
#4
A Hayes manual should have the instuctions for getting the booster out. http://dodgeram.org/tech/new00/new_for_00.htm 2000-01 1500 trucks have a compact booster. I dont know if it will make your truck stop better, though it is something to look into.
Do you hear a hissing sound when hitting the brakes? Its not like a continual thing, just when applying, and if I hold my position the noise is not present.
Silver_dodge,
If I can find the manual and get the part fairly cheap (found them to be around $100 reman) I will try a DIY article. I hope its booster, but from the forum search my issues tend to match exactly the others who replaced thiers.
#5
I'm having an issue with my brakes. Actually, a few.
#1) Some kind of clanging noise when I'm coasting or driving at low speeds
#2) Brakes go from firm to taking a couple of pumps for pressure
#3) On a few occasions, the pedal has gone down but stopping was nil
I have the upgraded Wagner wheel cylinders on the rears.
Any ideas? The truck has 169K miles on it and was wondering if it's the booster or a collapsed flex line.
#1) Some kind of clanging noise when I'm coasting or driving at low speeds
#2) Brakes go from firm to taking a couple of pumps for pressure
#3) On a few occasions, the pedal has gone down but stopping was nil
I have the upgraded Wagner wheel cylinders on the rears.
Any ideas? The truck has 169K miles on it and was wondering if it's the booster or a collapsed flex line.
#7
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#8
Sounds like the master cylinder has blown out. Can you get it to happen regularly?
If you can, go somewhere safe and kill the engine while driving. If it still happens, it ain't the brake booster.
The rubber hoses could also be a culprit but I would think it would only go so far without a split/leak. Couldn't hurt to replace them at 170K though.
If you can, go somewhere safe and kill the engine while driving. If it still happens, it ain't the brake booster.
The rubber hoses could also be a culprit but I would think it would only go so far without a split/leak. Couldn't hurt to replace them at 170K though.
#9
On the way to work, I had firm pedal and then WHOOM to the floor. All the way it to work I had zero resistance until the last inch (?) and then it would slow the truck. I had to coast to stops and when I got here I popped the hood and [Gomer Pyle] Surprise, Surprise, Surprise [/Gomer Pyle] -- no fluid in the front circuit. So, it's either a broken hose or the M/C has gone.
***EDIT***
Checked the driver's side rear wheel after work (under the truck) and there was brake fluid dripping from the drum, so that tells me the wheel cylinder is blown. BULLSHIAT!!! I upgraded to the ¾-ton units about two years ago!
***EDIT***
Checked the driver's side rear wheel after work (under the truck) and there was brake fluid dripping from the drum, so that tells me the wheel cylinder is blown. BULLSHIAT!!! I upgraded to the ¾-ton units about two years ago!
Last edited by Gary-L; 11-06-2008 at 07:11 PM.