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Trans Check Valve Delete

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  #101  
Old 05-30-2010, 08:29 PM
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what does aux trans cooler look like? i know for sure i have 2 of the 3 up front
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  #102  
Old 05-30-2010, 08:34 PM
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On mine, it is between the condenser, and radiator, sorta at an angle. You can't really see all of it, lines just sorta disappear into the nether regions in there......
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  #103  
Old 05-30-2010, 08:34 PM
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There is no drilling involved. All radiators have a trans fluid heat exchanger. In the winter it gets the fluid to OP temp quicker. In the summer the coolant is supposed to be cooler on that side of the rad and takes heat from the trans fluid. I think that its still too hot. All rads should Have it though. Yours should as well.

Last edited by aim4squirrels; 05-30-2010 at 11:01 PM..
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  #104  
Old 05-30-2010, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyYou View Post
On mine, it is between the condenser, and radiator, sorta at an angle. You can't really see all of it, lines just sorta disappear into the nether regions in there......

lol. thats how i feel when i pop the hood and look at my motor with all these lines and cables...
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  #105  
Old 05-30-2010, 11:05 PM
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The aux cooler looks a bit like the power steering cooler, but a bit larger. If you have a big u shaped bracket that gets wider by the hood latch, it anchors to that. You can just barely see it if you shine a flashlight done there and look for it in the center between the rad and AC condensor.
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  #106  
Old 05-31-2010, 12:19 AM
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i'll have to check tomorrow. i'll take some pics. is my factory setup fine you think?
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  #107  
Old 06-01-2010, 05:09 PM
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Running the fluid from rad to aux cooler to trans runs about 10* cooler than factory set.

Only time that might be a big problem is a cold winter snap.
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  #108  
Old 06-03-2010, 01:46 AM
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so whats the benefit of deleting this check valve
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  #109  
Old 04-18-2011, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingnut71 View Post
hi montec its me again lol i did the trans tuneup and it went fine but now i have the same problem i had and also now it doesnt want to shift from 1st to 2nd unless i let off the gas and then press it again kinda like using a clutch to shift and then it shifts but the sometimes it seems like it drops back into 1st and so on if it goes right the first time for the most part the other gears seem to shift ok but when i hit passing gear it the tack jumps up and i go no where let off gas and im back where i started from let off gas in order to get it to shift could i have junk clogged in the check valve and can i just get rid of it with a piece of high pres hose thanks all for your input and help..
I have the same shifting problems. Replaced solenoids twice and the problem returns in 1000 miles. What did you do to correct this issue?
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  #110  
Old 06-30-2011, 09:11 PM
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I'll probably get chided for opening an old post, but I wanted to mention an alternative to the tranny check valve delete that I've worked on over the last few days.

It costs roughly $26 for all the parts at Napa.

(1) Crimp-able Quick-Disconnect Transmission Line Connector (Dodge), Napa P/N: BK 730-4983

(1) Crimp-able Hose End, 3/8" SAE Female Flare, Napa P/N: WH 06U-406

(1) Section of Napa Hydraulic Hose, 8", Napa P/N: WH H24506

(1) 3/8" SAE Male-Male Flare Fitting, Napa P/N: WH 42 X 6


The folks at my local Napa are yahoos, so I didn't trust them crimping the hose ends on there, even though they offer to make hydraulic hoses for you. We have a hydraulic hose crimper at work that worked nicely. The Quick-Disconnect fitting (P/N BK 730-4983) was extremely tight when I pushed it on the hydraulic hose, even before it was crimped down.

Please see the attached photo in the Photobucket link below. I thought it made a neat job of the check-valve delete.

Previously, I had tried to simply cut the check valve off the OEM hose and crimped on the Female 3/8" Flare Hose End (the second P/N listed). This did not work as it leaked transmission fluid from around the edge of the crimp; I think the OEM hose is too flimsy since it is not steel-reinforced. Obviously the double-braided hydraulic hose I used is way-overkill for the pressures this system will see, so perhaps a single-braid hydraulic hose would work as well for this mod.

Anyway, hope this may help someone if you're looking for an alternative to the original mod.

Thanks!
Dave


http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...e6-30-2011.jpg


*EDIT* For reference, the info for the Quick Disconnect Tool used to release the transmission lines at the radiator: Advance Auto, P/N AC522, Price: $8

Last edited by djm3452004; 07-09-2011 at 07:27 PM.. Reason: Adding another piece of info....
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  #111  
Old 06-30-2011, 09:15 PM
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Or you could remove the check valve hose assembly and drill the ball out , and pop the hose back on. LOL Of course I cleaned it and blew it out with compressed air. Props for the info btw.
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  #112  
Old 07-01-2011, 02:19 PM
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Default Drill Out Checkvalve

exactly what I did a couple of years ago and never had a problem, I tow a 24' gooseneck with tractor all the time. Don't see why some people make a big job of this, just drill it out.
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  #113  
Old 07-01-2011, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtheshowstoppper View Post
so whats the benefit of deleting this check valve

the check valve is suppose to keep the fluid in the torque converter when the engine is off. but as the plates and clutches in the transmission do their thing they create dust or fine particles and it gets into the check valve and clogs it up and that keeps the fluid from circulating and then the heat builds up in the transmission and then it happens..........................BOOOOOM!! transmission gone.
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  #114  
Old 07-08-2011, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djm3452004 View Post
I'll probably get chided for opening an old post, but I wanted to mention an alternative to the tranny check valve delete that I've worked on over the last few days.

It costs roughly $26 for all the parts at Napa.

(1) Crimp-able Quick-Disconnect Transmission Line Connector (Dodge), Napa P/N: BK 730-4983

(1) Crimp-able Hose End, 3/8" SAE Female Flare, Napa P/N: WH 06U-406

(1) Section of Napa Hydraulic Hose, 8", Napa P/N: WH H24506

(1) 3/8" SAE Male-Male Flare Fitting, Napa P/N: WH 42 X 6


The folks at my local Napa are yahoos, so I didn't trust them crimping the hose ends on there, even though they offer to make hydraulic hoses for you. We have a hydraulic hose crimper at work that worked nicely. The Quick-Disconnect fitting (P/N BK 730-4983) was extremely tight when I pushed it on the hydraulic hose, even before it was crimped down.

Please see the attached photo in the Photobucket link below. I thought it made a neat job of the check-valve delete.

Previously, I had tried to simply cut the check valve off the OEM hose and crimped on the Female 3/8" Flare Hose End (the second P/N listed). This did not work as it leaked transmission fluid from around the edge of the crimp; I think the OEM hose is too flimsy since it is not steel-reinforced. Obviously the double-braided hydraulic hose I used is way-overkill for the pressures this system will see, so perhaps a single-braid hydraulic hose would work as well for this mod.

Anyway, hope this may help someone if you're looking for an alternative to the original mod.

Thanks!
Dave


http://i1030.photobucket.com/albums/...e6-30-2011.jpg
This is exactly what I needed, thank you very much for the effort and picture!
Dylan
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  #115  
Old 07-08-2011, 04:44 PM
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Wow, that's a lot better than doing it for free. Whatever.
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  #116  
Old 10-08-2011, 04:00 AM
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so i read to about page 8, and i thought just to ask. so is the benefits over rule the cons? is this a recommend thing to do?
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  #117  
Old 10-08-2011, 04:41 AM
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Getting rid of the check valve has more pros than cons. Several Trans rebuilders do it as part of a normal rebuild, and a few won't even warranty the rebuild unless it is removed.
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  #118  
Old 12-17-2011, 12:24 PM
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Question dodge tranny check valve

did you ever find the p/n for the 3/8-3/8 male to male coupler & the 3/8 pipe
thread to flare thread converter?
Like your thread!

Last edited by mopareg; 12-17-2011 at 12:25 PM.. Reason: typo
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  #119  
Old 12-17-2011, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aim4squirrels View Post
Getting rid of the check valve has more pros than cons. Several Trans rebuilders do it as part of a normal rebuild, and a few won't even warranty the rebuild unless it is removed.
the shop that rebuilt mine said exactly that. and they cut it out and used new hose with a hose clamp. no overcomplicated "factory look" OCD mod here.... Its a hose people no need to overengineer it if the check valve is removed all those silly fittings can go with it, right?
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Last edited by Augiedoggy; 12-17-2011 at 12:54 PM..
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  #120  
Old 12-17-2011, 03:07 PM
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All that's needed is a drill and a 5/16" drill bit (IIRC). Spray some cleaner in the hose and blow it out good. Done.
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:07 PM
 
 
 
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23, 46rh, check, dodge, line, lines, location, problem, ram, shift, tranny, trans, transmission, truck, valve

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