2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Haven't done the lowers yet, but I just did an upper on my 2WD '01. It wasn't too bad, I pulled the control arm and ground off the rivets, then bolted the new one in... wasn't too bad. I only needed a couple sockets and whatnot. Hope this helps.
2001 1500 RCSB 2wd, Cherry Bomb Extreme, modded Kegger, 180* T-stat, 3923s, Edelbrock Pro Flo triangle air cleaner, no cat, flat black and ugly.-GONE... got tired of blowin the tranny up...New ride: 85 D250 RCLB ugly and tan
Thanks for the help everyone. Would not have to do this but I had someone hit me in my 2007 2500 on the 18th and pretty much total it out. I really liked that truck, finally got all the bugs worked out and the this happened. Bad part to it was the guy had no insurance. Well just have to start all over again, thanks everyone
Have same prob,
I have to do my lower ball joints on my truck really soon but have Never done ball joints on a dodge makes awful squeaks turning & such (a mechanic i trust says there bad) ,chevy pu yes pretty easy dodge is a whole new game ,have no way to grind or chisel however i do have a sledge hammer & a good cordless drill,other then that what's the easiest way ?? I'm a DIY person 2 reasons,, 1. cheaper(don't have the $) 2. like to learn lower i can see for sure 3 to 4 big rivets
i don't think a hammer and cordless drill are going to remove those rivets. i think you'll need a higher speed tool like an air powered cutoff tool, or an electric angle grinder, or an air chisel. you might get by with an electric drill and drill out the centers, or an electric drill with a cutoff/grinder wheel. i'm afraid the cordless drill isn't going to have the high speed that you need for cutting metal and throwing sparks.
01 1500 Reg Cab 4wd 5.2 auto 3.55 285/75/16 steps tow hooks sc3815 180 3923 trans cooler filter posilok powertrax (removed) timbren britebox pioneer head rockford amp speaker cobra cb firestick hughes plenum water pump timing chain oil pump rear main hub bearings brakes shocks cracked dash cad bushings seals ujoints trackbar tcase Robert Griffin Trans
When I do projects like this I make sure that I have good quality tools as for as the socket and winches are concerned. But because I'm not a professional mechanic and I do not plan on becoming one. Harbor freight is going to be your best friend. They have high-speed air grinders for eight dollars. They have a ball joint removal kit for $30. Yes the quality is somewhat less to be desired but it got me through replacing all my ball joints upper and lower.
dodgeram07: that was an excellent writeup you did!!!!!
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 2wd Automatic 5.9L K&N Drop IN Air Filter, AMS Oil By-Pass Filter, SCT Tuner, F1 Hughes Auto Intake manifold, 7° custom timing chain, Magnaflow Cat high Performance, water pump, oil pump, Mopar custom valve covers, Stock Injectors, XRF Tie Rod Ends and XFR Ball Joints, Hyper flex Master Kit - Dodge Ram - Auto 2WD.
I did replace the drivers side (LT) lower ball joint ,,
and did it without removing the lower control arm,grinding or a chiseling ,But i did remove the upper control arm brake rotor,caliper & adapter popped the upper & lower ball joint w/a puller and then took a good center punch that i had bought made a good punch mark and using the1/2" DeWalt Pilot Point cobalt drill bit i bought, i then drilled 1/4 to 1/2 way through the center on the rivet using cutting fluid & using the punch i had and a sledge hammer knocked the rivet out after popping the head of the rivets off ,from time of start to finish took like 6 hrs.Next lower should only take me like maybe 1/2 that time the uppers i think i can do in about 2 hr's or less per side removing the upper control arm took like 15 mints
as of last week i have done both lower + both upper ball joints, man what a pain in the *** uppers only took about 4 hrs total to drill out & replace last upper joint was the passenger side took me a record 1/2 hr from the time i started to the time i had had it back together. the lower was a problem and had trouble with the drivers side see post > lower ball joint problem had gone with the house brand from O Reilly auto ended up getting the Moog all is good now