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Front Axle Nut Removal 2500 4x4

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  #1  
Old 08-28-2009, 06:17 PM
sungod sungod is offline
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Default Front Axle Nut Removal 2500 4x4

There seems to be something at every turn. My rear brake problem has been corrected now the fronts are gone. For some reason it looks like the caliper hung and I am guessing the inboard side got hot. The rotor is almost all the way through to the fins so the rotor has to be replaced. I got the caliper off and the book say to remove the axle nut. No big deal. About a half day trying to figure out what size it is and locating a socket, now the issue is getting the nut off.

What is the trick? I hit it with air from my 1/2 impact and it didn't budge. I wedged a screwdriver in the slots to keep the rotor from turning and got out my 1/2 breaker bar with a 2 ft section of pipe and jumped up and down. The breaker bar snapped. Now what? I see that it torques down to 175ft/lbs, so I expect it to be tight. If this is going to be this much hassle, I can only imagine what the hub removal will be like. I might try renting a 3/4 impact gun or buying a 3/4 breaker bar, but hate to waste the effort if there is an easier way.
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  #2  
Old 08-28-2009, 06:42 PM
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it takes a lot of brute force. if you can get a big enough breaker bar you can put on a longer pipe. another idea is to drive it to a tire shop and let them hit it with the big 3/4 or 1" gun, then put on a little oil and reinstall (not quite so tight) and drive home, where it should come off with normal force.
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  #3  
Old 08-28-2009, 07:42 PM
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I don't have to remove the axle nut to take the rotors off on my Dana 60. What axle do you have?
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  #4  
Old 08-28-2009, 07:46 PM
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^+1 on not having to remove the nut. I could swear that all I did was remove the caliper then the caliper bracket and smack it with a hammer and off she came. Maybe I am forgetting something here.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:49 PM
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I don't know why you have to remove the nut to get the rotor off. That doesn't make sense.

Not sure how you stuck a screwdriver in but put the wheel back on, drop it, and crank on it. The wheel won't turn with the tire on the ground. Then you can put all you have behind it. If you snapped the breaker bar, I'd go up to a larger one and longer pipe or get a BIG impact wrench.
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miami_Son View Post
I don't have to remove the axle nut to take the rotors off on my Dana 60. What axle do you have?
Dana 60. Mine is a 98. I think they changed the design in 2000 and put the rotor on the front of the hub instead of behind it, and uses a 2 piston caliper instead of my single. It really is a horrible design. Not only do I have to fight to get this nut lose, but after I get it lose then I will have to battle to pull the hub and risk splitting the bearings which will render the hub useless and add another $250 to the job. The more I look at it, I am thinking that the previous owner let it get metal to metal and chewed up the rotor and realized that it was just way too much work to fix it correctly and just pad slapped it.

Last edited by sungod; 08-28-2009 at 09:25 PM..
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:07 AM
shefd95621 shefd95621 is offline
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Put the tire back on and set it down on the ground. The weight of the truck will keep the hub from spinning and you can use whatever means of leverage you need to get the axle nut off.

Just break it loose, then jack it back up to continue. Hope this helps.
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Old 08-29-2009, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by shefd95621 View Post
Put the tire back on and set it down on the ground. The weight of the truck will keep the hub from spinning and you can use whatever means of leverage you need to get the axle nut off.

Just break it loose, then jack it back up to continue. Hope this helps.
I can keep the hub from spinning by putting a screw driver in the slot on the rotor it rests against the bracket. The problem is getting that castle nut to break lose. I think I am going to rent a 1in impact wrench today. Sunbelt rents them for $40.
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Old 08-29-2009, 10:27 AM
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8 posts and no one has said to use some penetrating fluid. get either CRC Knock'er loose, Cyclo Breakaway or AeroKroil (Kroil oil from Kano Labs). hose it down, tap on it and wait about 15 minutes then spray and tap again and it will come right off.
if you use pb or wd 40 then you can plan on about a week of spraying and tapping before it will break loose.
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  #10  
Old 08-29-2009, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sungod View Post
Dana 60. Mine is a 98. I think they changed the design in 2000 and put the rotor on the front of the hub instead of behind it, and uses a 2 piston caliper instead of my single. It really is a horrible design. Not only do I have to fight to get this nut lose, but after I get it lose then I will have to battle to pull the hub and risk splitting the bearings which will render the hub useless and add another $250 to the job. The more I look at it, I am thinking that the previous owner let it get metal to metal and chewed up the rotor and realized that it was just way too much work to fix it correctly and just pad slapped it.
Is this true? I'm not so sure the design has changed at all.
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Old 01-31-2012, 11:20 PM
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Is this true? I'm not so sure the design has changed at all.
Very true...I'm having the same problem with my 98 2500 as we speak.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:30 AM
kadetklapp kadetklapp is offline
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You're kidding...You have to pull the hub and axle nut off to get the stupid rotor off? That's absolutely moronic engineering.

Oh goody. Can't wait to deal with this job....
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  #13  
Old 02-01-2012, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kadetklapp View Post
You're kidding...You have to pull the hub and axle nut off to get the stupid rotor off? That's absolutely moronic engineering.

Oh goody. Can't wait to deal with this job....
Yeah, I hear ya on that...... Not the brightest idea having rotors staked to the BACK of the hub by the lug bolts. Of course, dodge isn't the first manufacturer to think of that either. Chevy and Ford both did the same thing in past.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:48 AM
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Yeah, I hear ya on that...... Not the brightest idea having rotors staked to the BACK of the hub by the lug bolts. Of course, dodge isn't the first manufacturer to think of that either. Chevy and Ford both did the same thing in past.
And the cheapest/bottom of the barrel hub w/ABS on Rock Auto is a hundred bucks, so if you did end up shelling the hub you would have to rock out lotsa cash to put it back together....FML.
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Old 02-01-2012, 09:50 AM
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Wonder if it wouldn't be cheaper just to go to the yard, find an early 90's Ford 3/4 or 1 ton, and grab all the parts off that instead..... Get rid of the unit bearings altogether.
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sungod View Post
Dana 60. Mine is a 98. I think they changed the design in 2000 and put the rotor on the front of the hub instead of behind it, and uses a 2 piston caliper instead of my single. It really is a horrible design. Not only do I have to fight to get this nut lose, but after I get it lose then I will have to battle to pull the hub and risk splitting the bearings which will render the hub useless and add another $250 to the job. The more I look at it, I am thinking that the previous owner let it get metal to metal and chewed up the rotor and realized that it was just way too much work to fix it correctly and just pad slapped it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kadetklapp View Post
You're kidding...You have to pull the hub and axle nut off to get the stupid rotor off? That's absolutely moronic engineering.

Oh goody. Can't wait to deal with this job....

Picture to help

Click the image to open in full size.

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Originally Posted by HeyYou View Post
Wonder if it wouldn't be cheaper just to go to the yard, find an early 90's Ford 3/4 or 1 ton, and grab all the parts off that instead..... Get rid of the unit bearings altogether.
if the JY was dumb to let it go for less than the cost of unit hub bearings.... lol
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Old 02-01-2012, 04:24 PM
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Freakin' weird. I have the parts.pdf in my Google Docs. I can link to individual pages for images, however, I can only see them if I'm logged into my Google account.

So, sorry, but here is corrected as I took the page out and made a separate image file.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 02-01-2012, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle View Post
Freakin' weird. I have the parts.pdf in my Google Docs. I can link to individual pages for images, however, I can only see them if I'm logged into my Google account.

So, sorry, but here is corrected as I took the page out and made a separate image file.

That pic looks to me like for 2wd? If not and it's just a crappy pic they provide, it's still for a 2000 up. Maybe late 99.
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:22 PM
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Sorry if this has already been mentioned................

My 2001 2500 w/ dana 60 frt axle, pull the caliper & the rotor comes off.
x2 on the penetrating oil, If you don't have a oxy-act torc, a mapp gas torch just to warm it up, it will come off.

I just did mine ball joints, so a complete disassm. was inorder to get them off. A 3/4" impact spun mine off.............


NT
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1nordictom1 View Post
Sorry if this has already been mentioned................

My 2001 2500 w/ dana 60 frt axle, pull the caliper & the rotor comes off.
x2 on the penetrating oil, If you don't have a oxy-act torc, a mapp gas torch just to warm it up, it will come off.

I just did mine ball joints, so a complete disassm. was inorder to get them off. A 3/4" impact spun mine off.............


NT
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:42 PM
 
 
 
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07, 1500, 2000, 2500, 4x4, 97, 98, axle, bearing, center, dodge, front, hub, lose, nut, ram, stuck

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