Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Ram > 2nd Gen Ram Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Front Axle Nut Removal 2500 4x4

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-28-2009, 06:17 PM
sungod sungod is offline
Veteran
1998 Dodge Ram 2500
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 1998 Ram 2500 4x4
Location: Fairfax VA
Posts: 389
Default Front Axle Nut Removal 2500 4x4

There seems to be something at every turn. My rear brake problem has been corrected now the fronts are gone. For some reason it looks like the caliper hung and I am guessing the inboard side got hot. The rotor is almost all the way through to the fins so the rotor has to be replaced. I got the caliper off and the book say to remove the axle nut. No big deal. About a half day trying to figure out what size it is and locating a socket, now the issue is getting the nut off.

What is the trick? I hit it with air from my 1/2 impact and it didn't budge. I wedged a screwdriver in the slots to keep the rotor from turning and got out my 1/2 breaker bar with a 2 ft section of pipe and jumped up and down. The breaker bar snapped. Now what? I see that it torques down to 175ft/lbs, so I expect it to be tight. If this is going to be this much hassle, I can only imagine what the hub removal will be like. I might try renting a 3/4 impact gun or buying a 3/4 breaker bar, but hate to waste the effort if there is an easier way.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-28-2009, 06:42 PM
dhvaughan's Avatar
dhvaughan dhvaughan is offline
Hall Of Fame
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Vehicle: 01 1500 4wd
Location: Gainesville, Ga.
Posts: 12,192
Default

it takes a lot of brute force. if you can get a big enough breaker bar you can put on a longer pipe. another idea is to drive it to a tire shop and let them hit it with the big 3/4 or 1" gun, then put on a little oil and reinstall (not quite so tight) and drive home, where it should come off with normal force.
__________________
01 1500 Reg Cab 4wd 5.2 auto 3.55 285/75/16 steps tow hooks sc3815 180 3923 trans cooler filter posilok powertrax (removed) timbren britebox pioneer head rockford amp speaker cobra cb firestick hughes plenum water pump timing chain oil pump rear main hub bearings brakes shocks cracked dash cad bushings seals ujoints trackbar tcase Robert Griffin Trans
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-28-2009, 07:42 PM
Miami_Son Miami_Son is offline
Banned
2000 Dodge Ram 2500
My Garage
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Vehicle: 2000 Dodge RAM 2500 V10 SLT+ Quad Cab 4X4
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 2,816
Default

I don't have to remove the axle nut to take the rotors off on my Dana 60. What axle do you have?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-28-2009, 07:46 PM
speeddemon31176's Avatar
speeddemon31176 speeddemon31176 is offline
All Star
1988 Ford Thunderbird
My Garage
 
Join Date: May 2009
Vehicle: 97 RAM 1500 club cab 4x4
Location: Carbondale,PA
Posts: 754
Default

^+1 on not having to remove the nut. I could swear that all I did was remove the caliper then the caliper bracket and smack it with a hammer and off she came. Maybe I am forgetting something here.
__________________
1997 1500 4x4 club cab, Flowmaster true duals 2.25" with high flow cats, 4" Skyjacker susp./3" body, Cowl Induction hood-non-op.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-28-2009, 08:49 PM
Aubrey's Avatar
Aubrey Aubrey is offline
Record Breaker
1995 Dodge Ram 1500
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Vehicle: 95 Ram 1500
Location: Englewood, CO
Posts: 1,366
Default

I don't know why you have to remove the nut to get the rotor off. That doesn't make sense.

Not sure how you stuck a screwdriver in but put the wheel back on, drop it, and crank on it. The wheel won't turn with the tire on the ground. Then you can put all you have behind it. If you snapped the breaker bar, I'd go up to a larger one and longer pipe or get a BIG impact wrench.
__________________
95 1500 5.9, 3" SJ Sys Diesel Coils, 35" Trxus M/T, 16" Streetlocks, 4.56, Auburn Posi, Ox Lock, Hella, Remote start, K&N, Flowmaster50, 4x4 Posi-Lok, Custom bumpers, 9500 winch, 1-ton Steering, AGR SuperPump, RedHead Gear, Corbeau seats
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-28-2009, 09:04 PM
sungod sungod is offline
Veteran
1998 Dodge Ram 2500
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 1998 Ram 2500 4x4
Location: Fairfax VA
Posts: 389
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miami_Son View Post
I don't have to remove the axle nut to take the rotors off on my Dana 60. What axle do you have?
Dana 60. Mine is a 98. I think they changed the design in 2000 and put the rotor on the front of the hub instead of behind it, and uses a 2 piston caliper instead of my single. It really is a horrible design. Not only do I have to fight to get this nut lose, but after I get it lose then I will have to battle to pull the hub and risk splitting the bearings which will render the hub useless and add another $250 to the job. The more I look at it, I am thinking that the previous owner let it get metal to metal and chewed up the rotor and realized that it was just way too much work to fix it correctly and just pad slapped it.

Last edited by sungod; 08-28-2009 at 09:25 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-29-2009, 08:07 AM
shefd95621 shefd95621 is offline
Registered User
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Vehicle: 2000 Ram 1500 4x4
Location: Peoples Republic of California
Posts: 17
Default

Put the tire back on and set it down on the ground. The weight of the truck will keep the hub from spinning and you can use whatever means of leverage you need to get the axle nut off.

Just break it loose, then jack it back up to continue. Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-29-2009, 08:31 AM
sungod sungod is offline
Veteran
1998 Dodge Ram 2500
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Vehicle: 1998 Ram 2500 4x4
Location: Fairfax VA
Posts: 389
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shefd95621 View Post
Put the tire back on and set it down on the ground. The weight of the truck will keep the hub from spinning and you can use whatever means of leverage you need to get the axle nut off.

Just break it loose, then jack it back up to continue. Hope this helps.
I can keep the hub from spinning by putting a screw driver in the slot on the rotor it rests against the bracket. The problem is getting that castle nut to break lose. I think I am going to rent a 1in impact wrench today. Sunbelt rents them for $40.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-29-2009, 10:27 AM
Sheriff420's Avatar
Sheriff420 Sheriff420 is offline
Grand Champion
2000 Dodge Ram 1500
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Vehicle: 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.2
Location: Lee County, North Carolina
Posts: 6,844
Send a message via AIM to Sheriff420
Default

8 posts and no one has said to use some penetrating fluid. get either CRC Knock'er loose, Cyclo Breakaway or AeroKroil (Kroil oil from Kano Labs). hose it down, tap on it and wait about 15 minutes then spray and tap again and it will come right off.
if you use pb or wd 40 then you can plan on about a week of spraying and tapping before it will break loose.
__________________

Airgap. HS 1.7s. 50mm DIY TB. SC 3815. 14x2. 4.10 Yukons. Detroit Truetrac-both axles. Front hitch. Rear hitch lights with skid plates. 4 100w off road lights in brush guard. 2 55w lights in front bumper. Westin brush guard/nerf bars. 33" Treadwrights.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-29-2009, 01:31 PM
highlander73 highlander73 is offline
Professional
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab Short Bed 360ci V8 Auto
Posts: 106
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sungod View Post
Dana 60. Mine is a 98. I think they changed the design in 2000 and put the rotor on the front of the hub instead of behind it, and uses a 2 piston caliper instead of my single. It really is a horrible design. Not only do I have to fight to get this nut lose, but after I get it lose then I will have to battle to pull the hub and risk splitting the bearings which will render the hub useless and add another $250 to the job. The more I look at it, I am thinking that the previous owner let it get metal to metal and chewed up the rotor and realized that it was just way too much work to fix it correctly and just pad slapped it.
Is this true? I'm not so sure the design has changed at all.
Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2009, 01:31 PM
 
 
 
Reply




Tags
07, 1500, 2000, 2500, 4x4, 97, 98, axle, bearing, center, dodge, front, hub, lose, nut, ram, stuck

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:57 AM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails