No, you'll have to drop if for that, as it connects to stuff on the top side.

 

Thanks.
Went to a local hole in the wall trans shop and got my part, $50 and that included the new solenoids or whatever they are, pretty good deal.
He had plenty of valve bodies laying around, and it was easy to see looking at it from the top why this would never come out without dropping the body - Its screwed in, and drops out with the body.

One final question - Does it make removal easier in any particular gear/neutral ?

 

Neutral. The rooster comb will be centered.

BE SURE to chock the wheels and engage the hill brake!!!

 

So the throttle/gearshift linkage needs to be detached before the VB will drop ?
I took the bolts out this morning and am letting it drip dry a bit before removal.

 

yes, the linkage will hold up the VB and ruin the seal right there if you don't remove it. There's another quart or two of fluid when the VB breaks away from the trans, so be ready.


and please, provide a link to that picture in your sig.

 

Ok, I think I got it figured out now.
Didn't want any hangups when I remove the last bolt, with any luck I'll have it down later this evening.

Got the babe from here
http://www.garvgraphx.com/cover.htm
Click on "new stuff" & "gallery".
I just erased the background, resized, saved as a .png and presto, instant sig babe !

Some are watermarked, making them useless for sig pics, some not.
Impressive talent this guy has.

 

Ok I'm having a devil of a time with the linkage.
Both the throttle and gearshift nuts are lose, so they need to be completely off ,,, And does the whole assembly just lift off the pin ?
You said something about a 9/16th bolt to the right of the linkage that needs to be loosened, I'm not seeing that.

Also, you said 2 sensors.
The one on the top that goes to the main internal harness is disconnected, is this the other one [red arrow in the pic] ?
How is the eclip accessed, does the VB have to drop a ways before you can get to it ?

I'm starting to wish I had it towed to a shop, I really screwed myself by not putting it on ramps first.

 

Each linkage lifts off separately. I see a lot of rust by your pics. I'd hit the linkages with brake parts cleaner to get rid of the rust and crud, then hit it again with some PB blaster. After that, make sure the clamping bolts have been loosened, and take a standard screwdriver with a wide blade and wiggle it in between the two linkages and gently rock it back and forth with a few gentle nudges to break the top linkage loose. The bottom one can be pried off gently by wedging the screwdriver under the bottom linkage.

That's a mounting bolt that holds the longer rear linkage shaft steady (it keeps it from bowing during operation.) It's a bit further back on the trans body than anything you have pictured.

That is the correct sensor. You have to take it out, or you could damage it. It's the neutral/park safety switch that keeps the truck from starting unless the shifter is in neutral or park. If you look carefully at it from the inside you'll see a little nub that fits into the sensor. If you don't have the truck in neutral when you put the VB back in, you can't get the nub back in the sensor when you reinstall the sensor.

The E-clip will be easier to see when the VB comes out a bit. You can get it off with a smaller standard screwdriver, just get between the parking sprag and the E-clip on the clip's back side and pop it outward.

It's a PITA job, there's no doubt about that.

 

Thanks - Believe it or not, that is clean.
I have already cleaned it with brake cleaner and lubed it, gonna let it lube overnight and try it again tomorrow.
Is the neutral switch threaded in ?

 

If I recall correctly, yes it is threaded. I believe you take a large wrench to that outer nut that your red arrow is pointing to and the whole thing screws out. I believe it was 13/16"? It's been a while. Wish I would have taken better pictures of that step.


One things for sure, watch that little purple plastic tab on the end of the rooster comb when you're trying to remove that sensor, if it looks like anything's gonna torque and break, STOP what you are doing.