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2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

So I had a brake line bust and now have no idea how to fix it.

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  #21  
Old 12-31-2009, 10:38 AM
Miami_Son Miami_Son is offline
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If you replace it the way Charlie did it won't matter because you'll be rerouting the new line away from where the old line is.
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  #22  
Old 12-31-2009, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by charlie1935 View Post
Mine did the same thing.
I got four sections of brake line at A-zone, One 60 inches long, one 30, and two shorter ones of different lengths.
ran them from the T fitting behind the left front wheel along the top of the frame rail to the fitting above the rear axle.
Just took slight bending by hand.
Covered the new line with vacuum hose every place it could touch anything and tied it down with heavy duty plastic ties.
Less than $50.00 spent.
I went down to autozone and bought a 25' roll of line & fittings and simply made my own with a double flare kit. The line under the bed of the truck blew out on me as I was unloading my boat into the water on the ramp...that was interesting...plus we still had to get home.

I unbolted the bed, slid it back by myself and balanced the wheel well arch on the tire so the bed was at a 45 degree angle...this gave me the access I needed to change out the 12' line. I pulled the old one, flared out one end of the line, bent it into shape, then flared out the other end; took about an our for the whole process plus I have 10' of spare line if another breaks.
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  #23  
Old 12-31-2009, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by hometheaterman View Post
How can I tell what would have caused it to bust since I can't even see the line?
It runs between the gas tank in the frame rail.
Crud collects in there and eventually rust the line through.
It's possible the fuel line will do the same thing.
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Old 12-31-2009, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by charlie1935 View Post
It runs between the gas tank in the frame rail.
Crud collects in there and eventually rust the line through.
It's possible the fuel line will do the same thing.

EXACTLY what happend to mine...very poor design by dodge.
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Old 12-31-2009, 01:37 PM
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Is anything Dodge designs a good design? Nothing I've found so far.
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  #26  
Old 12-31-2009, 04:51 PM
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Is anything Dodge designs a good design? Nothing I've found so far.
yea, the bottom end of the Magnum motors
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  #27  
Old 12-31-2009, 05:26 PM
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What's wrong with the bottom end?
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Last edited by halfamil; 12-31-2009 at 05:28 PM.. Reason: wrong verbage
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  #28  
Old 12-31-2009, 06:27 PM
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No need to drop the tank, feel free to do so if you like doing unnecessary work.

It could have failed from corrosion, mine sure did.
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  #29  
Old 12-31-2009, 07:50 PM
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One of the first things I had to do on mine was replace the corroded brake lines. I am surprised my friend's (who I bought it from) mechanic never noticed how bad they were. Looked plenty scary to me so I had them all replaced.
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  #30  
Old 01-03-2010, 06:46 PM
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So do I need a flare tool or what do I need? I'm really debating if I'm going to attempt this myself or have a shop do it. I'm going to either call the shop tomorrow or start trying to gather stuff myself. I have no brake line flaring tools or anything like that or bending tools or anything. So what would I need? Or are the brake lines you guys are getting already having the fittings on there? How did you all attach them to the frame rail for you guys that left the old line there and ran it ontop? Also did you have to cut the old line or is there a spot it had a connector in it that you could just connect this new line into?
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:26 PM
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Not trying to insult you, but from the questions you have been asking you have very little mechanical experience. Brakes are not something to be taken lightly. Have the truck towed to a repair shop and have the line replaced by a professional. It should not be too expensive. Like a previous poster stated a replacement line form the dealer is only 27 dollars. It might take 2 hours labor. Maybe $200 at most. And you will not have to worry about wether it is done correctly.
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  #32  
Old 01-03-2010, 07:32 PM
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I'm thinking seriously about doing that. I have a decent idea how they work as I've done several sets of rotors, pads, calibers, etc and bleed quite a few brakes. I've also done master cylinders, calibers, and line on motorcycles but never on trucks. The thing I have no idea about is splicing into a line and re running it some other way. I've never cut and reconnected a brake line.
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  #33  
Old 01-03-2010, 08:57 PM
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It's calipers, damn it! Calibers refers to the size of a bullet.
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  #34  
Old 01-03-2010, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miami_Son View Post
It's calipers, damn it! Calibers refers to the size of a bullet.
Or a small Dodge hatchback
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  #35  
Old 01-04-2010, 08:10 AM
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There are "unions" that are used to mate sections of fuel line.
You have to flare both cut ends, one gets a male, one gets a female and presto, screw em together and they are joined as one.
Just make sure you get the proper sized union for the line you use.
Yes, you'll need a flaring tool - Flaring is simple, you can teach a 4 year old how to flare like a pro in about 12 seconds.
Bender you can do without, but they are so cheap it wouldn't hurt to try one ... If only to use the grooved wheel to start the bends, the majority can be done with thumb pressure.

There are screw in clips that attack the line to the frame, old ones can be reused.
Most lines, assuming they are stock, are 1 piece.
Unless you custom order the line, you'll need 2 lines, a union, and you can reuse the end connectors.

Its best to start from the front, the section that has all the bends worth speaking of.
It will probably terminate before the gas tank, if it doesn't you'll have to cut it there, or drop the tank.

Cuttings much easier, but chances are it will be fine as is.
Then run the other line from the back and mark where you'll have to cut, keeping in mind theres not much margin for error.
Cut it too short and the line is useless, you'll have to get another.
Too long is fine, you'll just have to trim it to just the right size to properly mate with the other line.

Flaring tool kits include a tube cutter, which makes it simple to cut the lines.

Last edited by xray99; 01-04-2010 at 01:59 PM..
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  #36  
Old 01-04-2010, 11:38 AM
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Well, I'm getting it fixed at a shop. I had one look at it and they told me around $120 to fix it so I told them to go ahead. Not worth me getting under there to fix it and having to buy tools for that price.
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  #37  
Old 01-04-2010, 02:10 PM
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Well, you could have gotten everything that you need for half the price, but $120 ain't bad, specially if you would have had to work outdoors in the cold.

I like doing what I can myself not only to save $$, but to make sure it is done right.
Not only that, once you buy the tools for a job, they are yours forever, for future jobs.
Can't exactly look at it as a 1 time investment.
If you ever have to do a gas line on a dryer or stove, you'll need a flaring kit.
You need to replace a fuel line, you'll need a bender.
Of course, you already know that, and I agree that you shouldn't mess with anything mechanical if you aren't confident in your ability to do it right ,,, But I think you psyched yourself out of this one, really not too much involved.

The competance of unknown mechanics can't be assumed, I'd get under there when you get it back and take a look and make sure everything is tight, and that no part of the new line is rubbing against the frame.
Make sure the system is topped off with new fluid, and if they feel in the least spongy, make sure they are properly bled.
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  #38  
Old 01-04-2010, 07:32 PM
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Well, ended up being closer to $150 than the $120 they had told me they thought it would be. Oh well, I paid it. I know I could have done it a lot cheaper but it's been freezing cold "literally freezing" and I would have had to have done it outside or in the garage with the garage door open since the truck wont fit in there.

On this job it's not that I didn't think I could do it. I'm 100% positive I could have done it. The thing is I just didn't want to do it. I'm so tired of working on vehicles it's not funny. Most people I've talked to don't seem to get where I'm coming from but I literally have gotten to the point I hate working on vehicles. I don't find it fun or even halfway like it. I've also got a list of other things the vehicles need that are just basic like oil changes. I probably should have done this myself but I was just so tired of messing with vehicles I didn't want to do it. Plus the freezing cold and not having the tools just gave me a few more excuses to take it somewhere.


As for the doing stuff yourself to save money and have stuff done right I agree with you there. It seems like every time I've taken something to a shop to have it done it's come back to where I'm not happy with the quality of work that was done. Does it work? Sure but it's usually no where near the quality I'd have liked it to be and they charge you an arm and a leg for it. That's why I do 99% of the stuff myself. I just was tired of working on vehicles and only have a couple days that I could have done it. I also didn't want to be in the middle of it and have to stop and then not have it for the next week or two in case we got any more snow. Thinking back on it tonight I do kind of wish I had just done it myself but oh well.

They ran it through the frame like the old one was but they just left the old one there and cut off. I had at first asked them to run it outside the frame but they told me he was afraid that it wouldn't be protected enough so I Told him just run it like it was. I thought running it like that they would have removed the old one but they didn't. Oh well.

I think I paid way too much as I could have done it myself a lot cheaper but like I said above I just didn't want to mess with this thing right now. If I had to do it again I'd probably have done it myself but right now I have other things I want to be doing than working on that.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:39 AM
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I wouldn't have done it in the cold, unless my life depended on it.
Lots of folks post from FLA or out west.
I need to change my rotor and cap, no way I am going to do it until the temp reaches the upper 30's at least.

If you're burnt on wrenching, not much you can do about it.
Some do it out of necessity, they simply don't have the spare $$ to do otherwise.
I like saving the $$ of course, but I like doing anything possible myself that I can, I'm a tool junkie, and I basically enjoy wrenching, though like anything else it can get frustrating.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miami_Son View Post
It's calipers, damn it! Calibers refers to the size of a bullet.
and its bumper, not bumber. i know you've noticed that one too.
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