I replaced mine this summer because by the gas tank, started to leak and it took about an hour but I had to run to the store a few times. I just used a few unions and long pieces of brake line from Autozone. Also used their free loner flair tool and my pipe cutter and a wrench. Pretty easy to use. Bent everything by hand. I just fed the line between the tank and the rail. Put a slight bend in it and it will feed all the way back. I tried to just do a repair at first, but broke the line in another place, so I replace the whole thing. If I remember, it was somewhere around $25 to do the job. I bled the lines by putting a rubber tube on the bleeder into a small bottle that had a little brake fluid in it. Kept dumping fluid in the reservoir, pumped brake pedal until it came out with no bubbles. Bleed all four wheels. Touch the brakes now and you about go through the windshield. Not sure if this is the proper way but worked well for me.

 

IF Your gas tank is low I would just say replace the whole line front to back
Factory line was $27ish from dealer it had all the bends and flared ends.

I first tried to replace with the gas tank in place , but there were 3 clips in the frame rail that hold both the fuel line and brake line that I couldn't get to.

If you go this route you will also need to remove the front plastic wheel well liner and buy those little snap rivets, about $5.
You don't need to remove the tank just drop it a bit I put a couple of recycling bins and some boxes under it and dropped it about 6".
About 2-3 hours I'd say

 

A cheapo flare tool & bender from harbor freight would help.
Take the original out and match the curves best you can, don't have to be exact.
Like others said, most of the bending can be done by hand, with slow steady thumb pressure, I like the grooved bending tool for starting some of the more complex bends.
You have to flare if you use unions, which you will need at least one if you replace the whole thing.

You should replace the whole line, they are clipped by the gas tank but you can pop the line right off the clips, and don't need to worry about getting the new line back on.
As already suggested, make sure to pad any area of the line the comes on contact with the frame, you could probably salvage the ones that are on the old line, and put them in the same places.

 

Isn't dropping the tank a huge pita? Not sure I really want to do that and it has a lot of gas in it too. Anyway, what size line do I need and what size fittings? Does it come with the fittings already on it or what? I've never messed with brake lines before.

 

another way to route the new line, much easier (how i did it anyway) is around the right side of the fuel tank, just find a couple places to anchor it to (and you don't even have to remove your old line)

 

Dropping the tank is easy peasy. Put a floorjack underneath it with a roughly 10" by 10" piece of plywood (something around that size) to distribute the weight. The tank is held up by two straps with 2 studs each (I think its like a 15mm or something nut on a stud). Once the straps are unhooked, you can slowly lower the floor jack and the tank should follow.

 

So how long should it take to drop the tank? Will I have easy access to the line after that? If I got get a line tomorrow what do I need to tell them I need exactly? What tools do I need? Isn't their going to be wires and stuff hooked to the fuel tank? I know I've read of people removing the bed instead of dropping the tank to change the fuel pump. If it's easier to remove the bed it seems like it's got to be a huge pita to drop the tank.

 

You also need to figure out what caused the leak,since yours and other folks lives are at stake here.Brakes are the most important, and unforgiving component on any vehicle.

 

I thought I already pointed that out earlier in the thread.

The metal brake lines don't just fail for no reason. Something either hit or abraded the line or caused it to kink.

 

How can I tell what would have caused it to bust since I can't even see the line?