Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Ram > 2nd Gen Ram Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Dodge Ram Fender Removal and Wheel Well Housing

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 04-09-2010, 11:46 PM
GC99RAM GC99RAM is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Vehicle: 1999 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 & 1999 Dodge Durango 2WD 5.9
Location: Minneapolis MN
Posts: 113
Default Dodge Ram Fender Removal and Wheel Well Housing

I had to do this today to my Ram. I thought it would be a hour to two hour job being that it's just a fender.... right? Wrong! There is a lot more to it than it looks. It's not like a Ford or Chevy fender. There is the wheel well assembly that is welded to it and it must come out with the fender. The best way to do this is to use a weld cutter and some bolts to fasten it back on. There was an article that I wanted to share with you if you guys ever want to tackle this on your own... just so you know what you are getting into.

Of course, I found this article AFTER I tried to do this job...

Article as it is written.

"The front fenders are connected to the A pillar above the the top hinge, at the bottom of the rocker panel seam, three bolts pass through the hood hinge support in the middle of the fender, four bolts on the radiator support, three vertical bolts on the top radiator brace, and one bolt at the rear of the wheelhouse to the cab body. Yes, the wheelhouse is spot welded to the fender and must be removed with it. Remove all the bolts listed as well as the bolts retaining the splash shield. The splash shield is a plastic liner connected to both the wheelhouse and the fender. Remove the headlight/cornering lamp assembly. The best way I have found to do this is to loosen the bumper to framebrackets and let the bumper assembly sag to gain clearance. If the upper bumper cover is removed to gain the clearance needed you will more than likely need to get a new cover as the nylon clips have a tendency to break during removal. Once the fender/wheelhouse assembly has been removed use a spot weld cutter to separate the wheelhouse from the old fender. Check the new fender for clearance and fit on the vehicle. Make all the needed adjustments to get the fender to fit correctly. Remove the fender and attach the wheelhouse. This should be done by spot welding. It can also be done using bolts. If using bolts place some 3M double stick weather strip adhesive tape in the seam to prevent direct contact of the parts to prevent rattles and squeaks. Drill the new fender to match the holes made by the spot weld cutter in the wheelhouse. Use stainless bolts and lock nuts so that the assembly can be services if needed. I would also recommend using Wurth Rust Inhibitor on all the seams to prevent rust and once cured it is an excellent adhesive and will reduce noise coming from moving body panels. Good Luck. It is not as bad as it sounds. Take your time and it will be worth the effort."
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-11-2010, 01:24 PM
Moordoom Moordoom is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5
Default RE: Dodge Ram Fender Removal and Wheel Well Housing

I wish this came with a few pictures of bolt locations and the removal process...
Bought my '97 1500 SLT 4x4 new in Jan 97, and the only problem I had out of it was a transmission regulator valve the first year I bought it and standard wear and tear (165,000 miles on it) and servicing. I rear ended someone a couple months again and need to replace the bumper, hood, grill, and both fenders. I only need to replace the fenders because of a slight wrinkle and pucker in both that will make repairing them nearly impossible.

Like I said, I wish it came with a pictures of bolt locations. I am also getting ready to do this blind, but I am going to have to go to a self pull yard to get the fenders, and dont want surprises or not have the right tools.

But thanks for posting this, as I have found little to no information on this. Even Chiltons and Haynes Manuals do not cover this.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-11-2010, 02:05 PM
xjarhead69's Avatar
xjarhead69 xjarhead69 is offline
All Star
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Vehicle: 96 Ram 2wd 5.2L Auto
Location: Leesburg, IN
Posts: 927
Default

The Service manual thats free for download in the FAQ's section covers this.
Starts on page 23-86, "EXTERIOR" section.
Hope this helps.

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-11-2010, 03:27 PM
Moordoom Moordoom is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5
Default RE: Dodge Ram Fender Removal and Wheel Well Housing

Can you link the thread, I cannot seem to find it.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-11-2010, 03:35 PM
Moordoom Moordoom is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5
Default RE: Dodge Ram Fender Removal and Wheel Well Housing

Nevermind I uncrossed my eyes and found it

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...e-ram-faq.html
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-11-2010, 11:56 PM
Snookhunter Snookhunter is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Vehicle: Dodge Ram 1500 SLT
Location: South Florida
Posts: 9
Default

Taking the fenders off is super easy. I replaced the entire front end of my truck after I read ended a Chevy tracker,

Click the image to open in full size.

Took me 2 hours in a junkyard and 400 dollars for the parts, then another 2 hours to reassemble them on my truck. Now it looks like this, still haven't gotten it painted.

Click the image to open in full size.

You will need a second person when putting the fenders on. There are bolts that attach the fender to the bottom of the cab that are a pain to line up so they should be done first. When taking the driver side fender off be careful with your ABS control module, I tied it up to the hood so it wouldn't fall or bend any pipes.

If you have any questions about it let me know, I will see if I can get some pictures of bolt locations in the morning if you still need them.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-12-2010, 10:25 AM
Moordoom Moordoom is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5
Default

Here is what mine looks like...
Click the image to open in full size.
And here...
Click the image to open in full size.
Mine was driveable, but just didnt look good. Inthe first photo you can see the gap in between the hood and fender. I have since replaced the hood, and removed the hanging plastics. I still drive it. Just time to fix it now.
My local Self Pull has my fenders for 40.00 each, grill for 45, and bumper for 50.00. Total $175, plus the hood I already picked up for 50.00. $225 in all.

@Snookhunter - Did you Airbag go off? Mine did not. And I have found other friends of mine who had 2nd Gen Rams whose Air Bag did not. One was so bad it set the right front tire almost in the cab and it did not go off.

Here is a before the wreck shot (3 days before)...
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-12-2010, 03:56 PM
Nando Vazquez Nando Vazquez is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Vehicle: 1999 Dodge Ram R/T
Location: West Texas
Posts: 277
Unhappy

Those pictures of wrecked Rams are heartbreaking. ='[
__________________
Dodge Ram 1999 R/T- Hughes Plenum Fix, Kegger Mod, Pacesetter Shorty Headers, Magnaflow C/C, Flowmaster Super 44's, Spectre CAI, 8.5mm TM Cables.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-12-2010, 10:22 PM
Snookhunter Snookhunter is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Vehicle: Dodge Ram 1500 SLT
Location: South Florida
Posts: 9
Default

Neither my drivers or passenger airbag went off in the accident. I looked it up online, seems to be a recurring problem with 2nd gen Rams.

Mine wasn't drivable after the accident, it was towed to a body shop straight from the accident, they quoted me $4500.00 and refused to let it go without painting to match. Paid $50 bucks to tow it to my driveway and did the repairs myself.

The tear down was the best part, the engine and everything on it was fine, but the body was crap and bent up so it took a lot of swings with a sledge hammer, especially on the bumper and radiator mounts.

Also side note, mine has frame damage, the front right where the lower radiator mount bolts on is bent in about 1 1/2". I just use a big stainless U-bolt now for that side.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-13-2010, 09:43 AM
Moordoom Moordoom is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 4x4
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 5
Default

I got lucky, It just made a small crease on my radiator mount and the radiator, condenser and transmission cooler were all ok. I did develop a small transmission leak at the transmission cooler on the rubber hose compression fittings.

@NANDO - As the name says, It didnt "Dodge" so I "Ram"-med it
Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2010, 09:43 AM
 
 
 
Reply




Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:30 AM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails