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Front axle u-joint replacement HELP!

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  #1  
Old 10-25-2010, 03:26 PM
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Default Front axle u-joint replacement HELP!

Im going to replace my passenger side u-joint.....any advice, pictures, part numbers would be great.... greaseable or not?? Do I need to buy anything else?

2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 5.2L

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Old 10-25-2010, 03:43 PM
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BE VERY CAREFUL sliding the shaft through the seal! since your not replacing the seal its kind of hard to clean the axle tube good, so there is a pretty good chance that the shaft will pick up some dirt on re-entry. its kind of a hit or miss as to whether or not you'll damage the seal or not. i would say dont bother trying to scrape the dirt out of the tube as you'll just knock it loose and heighten the chances of contaminating the seal.

get greasables from napa. be sure to knock the c-clips out under the caps. they should come off fairly easily. sit one cap side on a socket that is larger than the cap itself and set the two ends of the shaft on 4x4's while using a socket that is slightly smaller than the caps to hit the opposite side cap with a dead blow. repeat till all caps are out

be sure
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:00 PM
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You might want to plan to replace the oil seals as well. I replaced the front axle U-joints, was carefull as I possible could be with reinstalling the axles and now have puddles of diff oil every morning. Was hoping that it was just oil that had leaked out when I pulled the axles, but not so lucky.

Another weekend, another project!
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:27 PM
Sixtysixdeuce Sixtysixdeuce is offline
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You might want to plan to replace the oil seals as well. I replaced the front axle U-joints, was carefull as I possible could be with reinstalling the axles and now have puddles of diff oil every morning. Was hoping that it was just oil that had leaked out when I pulled the axles, but not so lucky.

Another weekend, another project!
That turns an afternoon project into a weekend-long ordeal (or more, for those less familiar). Driver side requires carrier removal, and, the passenger side seal is a B**** to install without the right tool (I use a piece of 3/4" fine thread grade 8 all thread and a seal driver I turned on my lathe).

I don't recommend changing them unless they leak.

As the first response said, just be very careful reinstalling the shafts. Try to keep it supported all the way in, so it doesn't scrape the tube and drag that debris into the seal.
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:17 PM
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THANKS for the info....what do u think a shop would charge for the u-joint replacement? I know I could probably do it....but it never seem to go that easy.
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:20 PM
Arachnyd Arachnyd is offline
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I was quoted 750 for both Ujoints (passenger and driver) hope that helps from a local shop.

The Ujoints are an easy fix, but you'll probably decide you want to do the seals too. Look carefuly to make sure they aren't bad- run a few miles on bad ujoints, and the seals will get destroyed
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Arachnyd View Post
I was quoted 750 for both Ujoints (passenger and driver) hope that helps from a local shop.
Jeebuz!!! We're not the cheapest game in town, and do them for less than half that parts and labor. It's 2.6 hours plus the two joints ($25-$60/ea at list price depending)
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:32 PM
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THANKS for the info....what do u think a shop would charge for the u-joint replacement? I know I could probably do it....but it never seem to go that easy.
with THE RIGHT TOOLS its really not that bad.

if your gonna do the seals order the seal installer from quad4x4.com. its a must have if you want a perfect install on the first try. not to mention full color step-by-step instructions. the seal installer makes the passenger side seal extremely easy (no carrier removal required). you do have to remove the carrier for the driver side though.

Im guessing the u-joints are bad, right?
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Old 10-25-2010, 05:48 PM
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Jeebuz!!! We're not the cheapest game in town, and do them for less than half that parts and labor. It's 2.6 hours plus the two joints ($25-$60/ea at list price depending)
I was quoted about 3 hours each (total 5.5-6 h), at 90hr, thats almost 600 right there, plus the Ujoints, and diff fluids, cand to 725 or so.

CarX is 85 an hour, and also quoted me about 3 hours each. I'm in the midwest too, normally stuff like this is cheap.
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Old 10-25-2010, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixtysixdeuce View Post
Jeebuz!!! We're not the cheapest game in town, and do them for less than half that parts and labor. It's 2.6 hours plus the two joints ($25-$60/ea at list price depending)

I'm not trying to start trouble here, but your shop can do both side's in 2.6 hour's ? Is there five people working on each side or what? How much for replacing seal's when they go bad after the 2.6 hour job?
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:11 PM
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I'm not trying to start trouble here, but your shop can do both side's in 2.6 hour's ? Is there five people working on each side or what? How much for replacing seal's when they go bad after the 2.6 hour job?
Alldata only calls for 1.1 hours to replace an axle. I add .2 to change the joints.

I can do each side in 15-20 minutes.

I've only had 2 ever come back leaking in my 13 year career, probably done well over a hundred U-joints in 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton gen II and 3/4 & 1 ton gen III. I'm just very careful.

On a customer pay, it's 6.6 hours to replace both front tube seals. Takes about an hour and a half to two hours.
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Old 10-25-2010, 07:54 PM
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15-20 minutes? Awesome. The right tools help for sure.(which I have) Maybe I'm old and slower but, I have atleast twice the years experience you keep reminding us of (13). So calm down, and let's all just help each other.
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:44 PM
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Ok guys, I don't want to argue BUT....I just did both side front u joints(98 Dodge 1500) freeing up the front axles were the worst. I cleaned everything up, used a u-joint press and bench press to assist installing new u-joints. Getting the front axles out was the worst, I am a DIY and I bet I had 10 hours of labor time. I do not have any axle seal leaks, job went well and I did an upper ball joint at same time. So if you want to do it, it can be done with patients and correct tools. Thanks to the many, many helpful hints I read inside this forum.
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Old 10-26-2010, 07:15 AM
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i'm just an old, slow, shade tree. it took me two days, which included a whole lot of non-productive work -
removing the stupid carrier.
cleaning 10 years of gunk out of the axle tubes.
driving to the parts store and hardware store a couple of different times.
building a bad seal tool...
buying more seals, LOL,
building a better seal tool.
changing the bushings, studying the collar and filing off burrs.
no press, bfh hammer only.
having a beer occasionally to admire my work...

since i had already changed bearings, i didn't have to spend any time fighting with them. they came right off and i was already familiar with that step.
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:01 AM
Sixtysixdeuce Sixtysixdeuce is offline
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Originally Posted by zman17 View Post
15-20 minutes? Awesome. The right tools help for sure.(which I have) Maybe I'm old and slower but, I have atleast twice the years experience you keep reminding us of (13). So calm down, and let's all just help each other.
Not getting excited, just answered the question

But really, it doesn't take long to remove a wheel, a caliper, a hub nut and 3 hub bolts, then beat out a U-joint. I suppose it might take twice as long or a bit more using only hand tools and working in a driveway. But since I've also had air and a ton of other shop equipment at home for a long time, I don't recall the last time I did it the hard way.
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhvaughan View Post
i'm just an old, slow, shade tree. it took me two days, which included a whole lot of non-productive work -
removing the stupid carrier.
cleaning 10 years of gunk out of the axle tubes.
driving to the parts store and hardware store a couple of different times.
building a bad seal tool...
buying more seals, LOL,
building a better seal tool.
changing the bushings, studying the collar and filing off burrs.
no press, bfh hammer only.
having a beer occasionally to admire my work...

since i had already changed bearings, i didn't have to spend any time fighting with them. they came right off and i was already familiar with that step.
LOL, same here the first time. The I went and spent thousands of dollars on more tools, so it wouldn't happen again



Quote:
Originally Posted by Sixtysixdeuce View Post
Not getting excited, just answered the question


I know, I was just F'n with you.

But really, it doesn't take long to remove a wheel, a caliper, a hub nut and 3 hub bolts, then beat out a U-joint. I suppose it might take twice as long or a bit more using only hand tools and working in a driveway. But since I've also had air and a ton of other shop equipment at home for a long time, I don't recall the last time I did it the hard way.
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:09 AM
Sixtysixdeuce Sixtysixdeuce is offline
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LOL, same here the first time. The I went and spent thousands of dollars on more tools, so it wouldn't happen again
That is key. Of course, I've got more than I can count that have only been used once or twice (a hundred dollar Snap-On Northstar/Aurora water pump socket comes to mind). Quite a few that I've built, too, like one to compress the valve springs on the 3.5's in the Pacifica's and perform the valve stem lock replacement procedure.

I do remember the first time I did a right side seal on a ram. About three seals later, I found a winning combination of threaded rod, washers and bearing races to get it done.

Now body work, OTOH............yeah. Definitely do that more as dhvaughan describes. At least a 6 pack and a half pack of smokes per panel. Recently discovered why there is a special adhesion promoter for bare plastics, too.......
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Old 10-27-2010, 02:09 AM
 
 
 
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