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Getting ALL the Air Out Of Coolant System

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  #11  
Old 11-05-2010, 10:55 AM
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Do our trucks have a coolant bleeder valve in one of the lines or on the radiator to help bleed the air out? I know many vehicles have them but I wasn't sure if we do.
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  #12  
Old 11-05-2010, 11:25 AM
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No........... the easiest way is to just raise the passenger side of the truck as far as possible before refilling.
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  #13  
Old 11-05-2010, 01:07 PM
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If you can find a very steep hill to park on, drive there with the radiator cap off and burp it there. Once the coolant level no longer falls in five minutes, top up right to the brim and put the cap back on before getting off of the hill. I've been doing it this way since I lost my frame jack, and it's worked on every vehicle I've tried it on in just one go.
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2010, 06:12 PM
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+1 to the above. The darn heater core and water jacket by the heads and intake are just about as high as the radiator cap. You gotta get that passenger side up there to burp it properly. curbing the passenger side front or driving up a ramp on only the passenger side front wheel works for me.
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:19 PM
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Ill add that a leak in the system will push coolant out when hot, but suck air in as it cools without emptying the overflow tank. Tstat housing, WP,the split in the heater line on the passenger side valve cover, and the heater return tube all seem to leak frequently. That metal tube should have a rubber o ring on it that frequently get mashed and leaks.

I usually put a thin smear of that grey coolant system RTV on the WP gasket, tstat gasket and that metal tube get a thick bead before I reinstall it.
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aim4squirrels View Post
I usually put a thin smear of that grey coolant system RTV on the WP gasket, tstat gasket and that metal tube get a thick bead before I reinstall it.
Good advice! I'll be doing that when I do the WP again. It's leaking from the back of the pump but on the passenger side so I at least know it's not that metal tube since that's on the driver's side.
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Old 11-05-2010, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiomechanic View Post
Just replaced my radiator and filled the system. Can't seem to get all the air out of the coolant because I can hear the slight sound of bubbles flowing through the heater core. It's annoying.

How do I get all the air out?
Any pics or tips for the radiator swap? Mine is getting swapped when I get all the parts to do the hoses tstat and trans check vavle delete all at one time.
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  #18  
Old 11-07-2010, 05:16 PM
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Welp, got everything apart and it doesn't look like the water pump was leaking. There is no evidence that the gasket has been compromised anywhere. What I DID find, though, is it looks as though the leak is coming from the timing cover gasket by the water jacket entry into the block on the passenger side. It's hard to tell because EVERYTHING is green from all the previous leaks but that is where I remember seeing the moisture before pulling everything apart.

Any tips for replacing that gasket? I should probably check the timing chain while I'm back there huh? I've never taken that cover off so ANY advice would be good (unless it's bad advice ).

EDIT: just read the procedure on removing the vibration dampener in the FSG. Yikes! Looks scary.
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Last edited by audiomechanic; 11-07-2010 at 05:32 PM..
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  #19  
Old 11-07-2010, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1997DodgeRam View Post
Any pics or tips for the radiator swap? Mine is getting swapped when I get all the parts to do the hoses tstat and trans check vavle delete all at one time.
The radiator swap is really straight forward. You don't even need to remove the clutch fan but would be a good idea to do anyway so you can replace the fan clutch.

Far as hoses, remember to replace your heater bypass hose too. It's a biznitch to get to. You have to remove the fan, AC compressor (just unbolt it and lay it over on the passenger wheel well), alternator, and finally the accessory bracket. Then you can get to that short 6" hose.

While you're in there, might as well do the water pump. Just a few more bolts and it's in your hand.

The lower trans cooler hose requires a special removal tool to get it off. When I installed my aftermarket cooler, I just bypassed the stock one so I left that part of the hose attached to my old radiator. I believe the tool is similar to a fuel filter removal tool (might be the same tool). Can be had at a parts house for cheap.
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:55 PM
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Here's where I'm suspecting the coolant is coming from:
Click the image to open in full size.

And here's a shot of the mess. Look at all that GREEN!
Click the image to open in full size.

Also, to add, the WP is about 10,000 miles old and the bypass hose was replaced with the WP as well so it's still new too.
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Old 11-07-2010, 05:55 PM
 
 
 
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