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Getting ALL the Air Out Of Coolant System

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  #21  
Old 11-07-2010, 06:07 PM
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Seeing that green damp snot-like substance up by the heater line near the tstat housing makes me think that might be your culprit. that metal tube is prone to corrode out and leak right down into all the areas that are currently wet with coolant.

I'd spray the whole area down with brake parts cleaner and reinspect for seepage after a couple of hours. a camera flash will really make the green stand out in a photo as well.
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  #22  
Old 11-07-2010, 07:02 PM
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I sure hope it's that easy! I might as well go ahead and replace the T-stat housing, T-stat (probably with a stock 195 since winter's almost here...got a 180 in 'er now), that metal heater line fitting and the other heater line tube on the right side of the WP (the one that has the o-ring that get's crushed often).

Does that heater tube on the right side of the WP come with a new o-ring or do I need to buy one of those too? Should I use some RTV on the new tube or is there a better way to seal it?
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  #23  
Old 11-07-2010, 07:38 PM
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That tube with the o-ring is a HELP! Item and should have an O ring in it. I use the RTV to be doubly sure.

Pulling the tube off the part I mentioned earlier should let you know if it really is the culprit.
Timing cover case leaks are not uncommon either, so don't rule that completely out. But that snot stuff signals that something's been afoul for a while around there.
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  #24  
Old 11-08-2010, 07:45 PM
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Stopped by the parts house and picked up all the goodies...except one piece. I got a new heater return tube with o-ring, a new heater outlet fitting, a new thermostat, and new gasket. The one piece I cannot seem to find within normal means is the thermostat housing! I checked Advance and O'Reilly's! Neither of them even had the housing listed in their databases! Is this a stealer only part? Or worse....junk yard?
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  #25  
Old 11-08-2010, 07:57 PM
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the water outlet ?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par.../N-jes91Z9pd7s
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  #26  
Old 11-08-2010, 09:05 PM
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yea, sometimes you gotta know the lingo.

Try buying a cam position sensor at the parts store. They have no clue what that is, but call it a pick up coil, and they'll know it immediately.
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  #27  
Old 11-08-2010, 09:10 PM
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OMG! "Water outlet?" Are you freaking KIDDING ME?!

ROFLMAO!!! No wonder they couldn't find it. They two guys I talked to knew the part I was referring to, but couldn't find it in the system. What's even funnier, is that the gasket for this, "water outlet," is called, and I quote, "Thermostat Housing Gasket."

LOL!!! Guess I'm making a trip to AutoZone tomorrow.

Thanks guys. I feel quite embarrassed.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:58 PM
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sometimes things just don't make sense.

back in the summer i was looking for rear axle seals for the daughter's 4runner. they were listed under "wheel seals" in brakes, as opposed to "axle seals".

are you going to rent a harmonic balance puller?
you'll need an impact wrench to remove/reinstall that big crank bolt.
tip - BEFORE installing the puller, reinstall the big crank bolt to protect those oh-so-precious threads in the end of the crank. you don't want to **** those up and don't ask how i know that. if you have trouble with the big bolt, apply some heat from a propane torch directly on the bolt.

before pulling the sprockets, rotate engine so the dots line up. then remove and reinstall. they're keyed so they only go one way. don't rotate engine with sprockets removed.
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  #29  
Old 11-09-2010, 06:44 AM
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For now, I'm going to just do the heater fittings and "water outlet" and see what happens from there. If there's still a leak from the TC cover gasket, I suppose I'll have to pull it.

Thank you very much for those tips! They will likely come in handy.
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  #30  
Old 11-09-2010, 10:08 PM
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Ok, got the new heater return tube, "water outlet," felpro thermostat gasket, new 195 thermostat, and a new coolant temp sensor (cause I broke the old one ). The only part I could not find is the heater outlet fitting that screws into the kegger in between the "water outlet" and the coolant temp sensor. Since the old one looked pretty nasty, I fired up my grinder with a fine wire wheel on it and polished all the crap off. It's got some pitting, but at least it's smooth now and not rough with rust and junk. I reinstalled it and used some teflon tape on the threads.

I used a little black RTV on the heater tube (around the o-ring) and above and below the thermostat gasket. I made sure the scrape the old gasket off of the kegger really well. The hose clamp the fits over the hose on the "water outlet" felt a bit weak so I replaced it with a regular threaded hose clamp instead of the spring loaded type. I also used a little Vaseline on the fittings where the hoses go and cleaned the inside of the hoses well before reinserting over the fittings. I'm going to let it sit over night so the RTV can set up before filling and pressure testing it.

Hopefully it holds. If there is anything I have done incorrectly or could do better, let me know before I fill 'er up and waste more coolant!
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  #31  
Old 11-10-2010, 07:14 AM
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sounds good. just my opinion, but i never let rtv sit to setup. once torqued down, i go ahead and fill it and run it.

i replaced my antifreeze last week. i just pointed the nose uphill and let it idle up to full temp. it took 15 minutes or more. then topped off the rad and overflow tank and called it done. that took all the air out.
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  #32  
Old 11-10-2010, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhvaughan View Post
sometimes things just don't make sense.

back in the summer i was looking for rear axle seals for the daughter's 4runner. they were listed under "wheel seals" in brakes, as opposed to "axle seals".

are you going to rent a harmonic balance puller?
you'll need an impact wrench to remove/reinstall that big crank bolt.
tip - BEFORE installing the puller, reinstall the big crank bolt to protect those oh-so-precious threads in the end of the crank. you don't want to **** those up and don't ask how i know that. if you have trouble with the big bolt, apply some heat from a propane torch directly on the bolt.

before pulling the sprockets, rotate engine so the dots line up. then remove and reinstall. they're keyed so they only go one way. don't rotate engine with sprockets removed.
I really, really, REALLY want to ask how you know. I'm betting the story involves alcohol, a surfboard, two goats, and the local Fire Chief not being amused.
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  #33  
Old 11-10-2010, 09:52 AM
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You forget the local police and the indecent exposure charges.
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  #34  
Old 11-10-2010, 10:01 AM
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You forget the local police and the indecent exposure charges.
That kind of goes hand in hand with the aforementioned surf board
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  #35  
Old 11-10-2010, 07:03 PM
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You forget the local police and the indecent exposure charges.
i'm not like that anymore.
and don't believe anything those damn goats say, they'll lie every time.
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  #36  
Old 11-10-2010, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
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i'm not like that anymore.
and don't believe anything those damn goats say, they'll lie every time.
HA! You say that, but I asked the sheep too and the stories match. What NOW mister?!


UPDATE: so I filled and bled as best I could tonight. I let her run for a good 20-30 minutes. The thermostat cycled a few times. So far, NO LEAKS! I still get the sloshing sound in my heater core, but hopefully parking it on an incline (Rhino ramps) will get the bubbles to the radiator as it cools.

So far so good...
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Old 11-10-2010, 08:19 PM
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fill the overflow tank to the max line with straight antifreeze. the air will work itself out within a few days.

those sheep are BAAAAAAADDDDD liars too. i was just helping it over the fence.
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  #38  
Old 11-10-2010, 08:25 PM
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those sheep are BAAAAAAADDDDD liars too. i was just helping it over the fence.
ROFLMAO!!!

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #39  
Old 12-20-2010, 02:31 PM
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Ok so i have the gurgle in my heater core in my 97 dakota. It has a new water pump, new thermostat and i just flushed the heater core and coolant system. Heater core is not leaking. So i suspect air in the coolant system. And it needs to be burped.

So i should park on an incline and take the radiator cap off? is this safe? what keeps coolant from coming shooting out when the engine heats up?
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  #40  
Old 12-20-2010, 02:37 PM
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Find a nice spot to get the passenger side front of the truck up nice and high. Driving up a hill at an angle supposedly works pretty good. DO NOT take the radiator cap off of a hot/pressurized cooling system, you WILL get a VERY rude surprise. I just drove to where I needed to be with the cap loose. (it wasn't very far.)

Or, drive the passenger front tire up onto a ramp.....
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Old 12-20-2010, 02:37 PM
 
 
 
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