Getting ALL the Air Out Of Coolant System
#21
Seeing that green damp snot-like substance up by the heater line near the tstat housing makes me think that might be your culprit. that metal tube is prone to corrode out and leak right down into all the areas that are currently wet with coolant.
I'd spray the whole area down with brake parts cleaner and reinspect for seepage after a couple of hours. a camera flash will really make the green stand out in a photo as well.
I'd spray the whole area down with brake parts cleaner and reinspect for seepage after a couple of hours. a camera flash will really make the green stand out in a photo as well.
#22
I sure hope it's that easy! I might as well go ahead and replace the T-stat housing, T-stat (probably with a stock 195 since winter's almost here...got a 180 in 'er now), that metal heater line fitting and the other heater line tube on the right side of the WP (the one that has the o-ring that get's crushed often).
Does that heater tube on the right side of the WP come with a new o-ring or do I need to buy one of those too? Should I use some RTV on the new tube or is there a better way to seal it?
Does that heater tube on the right side of the WP come with a new o-ring or do I need to buy one of those too? Should I use some RTV on the new tube or is there a better way to seal it?
#23
That tube with the o-ring is a HELP! Item and should have an O ring in it. I use the RTV to be doubly sure.
Pulling the tube off the part I mentioned earlier should let you know if it really is the culprit.
Timing cover case leaks are not uncommon either, so don't rule that completely out. But that snot stuff signals that something's been afoul for a while around there.
Pulling the tube off the part I mentioned earlier should let you know if it really is the culprit.
Timing cover case leaks are not uncommon either, so don't rule that completely out. But that snot stuff signals that something's been afoul for a while around there.
#24
Stopped by the parts house and picked up all the goodies...except one piece. I got a new heater return tube with o-ring, a new heater outlet fitting, a new thermostat, and new gasket. The one piece I cannot seem to find within normal means is the thermostat housing! I checked Advance and O'Reilly's! Neither of them even had the housing listed in their databases! Is this a stealer only part? Or worse....junk yard?
#26
#27
OMG! "Water outlet?" Are you freaking KIDDING ME?!
ROFLMAO!!! No wonder they couldn't find it. They two guys I talked to knew the part I was referring to, but couldn't find it in the system. What's even funnier, is that the gasket for this, "water outlet," is called, and I quote, "Thermostat Housing Gasket."
LOL!!! Guess I'm making a trip to AutoZone tomorrow.
Thanks guys. I feel quite embarrassed.
ROFLMAO!!! No wonder they couldn't find it. They two guys I talked to knew the part I was referring to, but couldn't find it in the system. What's even funnier, is that the gasket for this, "water outlet," is called, and I quote, "Thermostat Housing Gasket."
LOL!!! Guess I'm making a trip to AutoZone tomorrow.
Thanks guys. I feel quite embarrassed.
#28
sometimes things just don't make sense.
back in the summer i was looking for rear axle seals for the daughter's 4runner. they were listed under "wheel seals" in brakes, as opposed to "axle seals".
are you going to rent a harmonic balance puller?
you'll need an impact wrench to remove/reinstall that big crank bolt.
tip - BEFORE installing the puller, reinstall the big crank bolt to protect those oh-so-precious threads in the end of the crank. you don't want to **** those up and don't ask how i know that. if you have trouble with the big bolt, apply some heat from a propane torch directly on the bolt.
before pulling the sprockets, rotate engine so the dots line up. then remove and reinstall. they're keyed so they only go one way. don't rotate engine with sprockets removed.
back in the summer i was looking for rear axle seals for the daughter's 4runner. they were listed under "wheel seals" in brakes, as opposed to "axle seals".
are you going to rent a harmonic balance puller?
you'll need an impact wrench to remove/reinstall that big crank bolt.
tip - BEFORE installing the puller, reinstall the big crank bolt to protect those oh-so-precious threads in the end of the crank. you don't want to **** those up and don't ask how i know that. if you have trouble with the big bolt, apply some heat from a propane torch directly on the bolt.
before pulling the sprockets, rotate engine so the dots line up. then remove and reinstall. they're keyed so they only go one way. don't rotate engine with sprockets removed.
#29
#30
Ok, got the new heater return tube, "water outlet," felpro thermostat gasket, new 195 thermostat, and a new coolant temp sensor (cause I broke the old one ). The only part I could not find is the heater outlet fitting that screws into the kegger in between the "water outlet" and the coolant temp sensor. Since the old one looked pretty nasty, I fired up my grinder with a fine wire wheel on it and polished all the crap off. It's got some pitting, but at least it's smooth now and not rough with rust and junk. I reinstalled it and used some teflon tape on the threads.
I used a little black RTV on the heater tube (around the o-ring) and above and below the thermostat gasket. I made sure the scrape the old gasket off of the kegger really well. The hose clamp the fits over the hose on the "water outlet" felt a bit weak so I replaced it with a regular threaded hose clamp instead of the spring loaded type. I also used a little Vaseline on the fittings where the hoses go and cleaned the inside of the hoses well before reinserting over the fittings. I'm going to let it sit over night so the RTV can set up before filling and pressure testing it.
Hopefully it holds. If there is anything I have done incorrectly or could do better, let me know before I fill 'er up and waste more coolant!
I used a little black RTV on the heater tube (around the o-ring) and above and below the thermostat gasket. I made sure the scrape the old gasket off of the kegger really well. The hose clamp the fits over the hose on the "water outlet" felt a bit weak so I replaced it with a regular threaded hose clamp instead of the spring loaded type. I also used a little Vaseline on the fittings where the hoses go and cleaned the inside of the hoses well before reinserting over the fittings. I'm going to let it sit over night so the RTV can set up before filling and pressure testing it.
Hopefully it holds. If there is anything I have done incorrectly or could do better, let me know before I fill 'er up and waste more coolant!