Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Ram > 2nd Gen Ram Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Heater core replacement instructions.

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 11-14-2010, 12:43 PM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default Heater core replacement instructions.

Can someone point me in the direction for good instructions on replacing the heater core on a 01 1500 Ram 5.2L. I know I saw it around here somewhere, but can't seem to find it now.

Thanks,
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-14-2010, 01:20 PM
zman17's Avatar
zman17 zman17 is offline
Registered User
Dodge Forum Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2008
Vehicle: 2000 2500HD 4x4 5.9
Location: NH
Posts: 18,729
Default

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...placement.html Remember to disconnect the shifter indicator cable.
__________________
2000 2500HD 4X4 5.9 and 4:10's,HF tuned SCT,Red-Head gear box, HS 1.7's,
50mm Fastman TB, Hughes Plate,2" Hell Bent ,Volant CAI
Flowmaster 50 series, Rock Solid Ram Steering fix,B&M trans cooler,fuzzy dice good for 5HP
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-14-2010, 02:52 PM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default

Cool, thanks. That seems pretty straightforward. From everything I read, this is a PITA but I gotta get it done sometime.

Thanks for the link, helps a bunch.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-14-2010, 04:56 PM
Baddnet Baddnet is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
Location: Belpre, Ohio
Posts: 151
Default

The instructions are good.. but I have done 2 of these...and can do it 2 hours.. remove screws from top of dash.. remove nuts/bolts holding steering column up.. loosen the 2 bolts on bottom of dash... the dash will now swing down.. remove heater core hoses from in/out tubes.. remove the 2 screws holding the tubes to the heater box ..they are located in side under the dash.. you will see them when you swing dash back.. use grinder.. cut tubes off old core.. pull tubes out through firewall.. pull core up out of heater box..it will pull straight up..
I used the heater core you can get at autozone.. the new core will have tubes that you can swivel.. swivel the tubes so they will go back through the firewall... slide the heater core back down in the heater box.... button it all back up..and your done.. I know some ppl.. dont agree with this method.. but it works and it is not such a pita.. just sayin
__________________
2000 Ram 1500 Reg Cab 4x4 , 5sp, Trailmaster? 4inch body lift , Rough Country 3inch lift, 2500 front coils, 5.2 K&N Air Filter/ Cold air, Headers no cats fm40's , American Eagle Alloys 16x12 wheels Fierce Attitude M/T 315/75/16's, Red truck club #19
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-14-2010, 06:31 PM
ramit99 ramit99 is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Vehicle: 99 Ram 2500 Sport 4x4,06 Power Wagon
Location: Cobourg,Ontario , Canada
Posts: 25
Default

I did my 99 3 times. 2 heater cores and the evaporator core. Frist time tryed to do it without removing the dash all the way and thats how i f--d up the evaporator core. Drop the steering column undo all wires and take the dash right out. Make sure to connect the ground strap back on the heater core. First core i did i put a cheap one in. It lasted a year. The second one was a little more but all aluminum. Been in 5 years now.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-15-2010, 09:14 AM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddnet View Post
The instructions are good.. but I have done 2 of these...and can do it 2 hours..
Quote:
Originally Posted by ramit99 View Post
I did my 99 3 times. 2 heater cores and the evaporator core. ...
So are you saying I can get away with not having to decompress the AC system?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-15-2010, 03:03 PM
Baddnet Baddnet is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
Location: Belpre, Ohio
Posts: 151
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge33 View Post
So are you saying I can get away with not having to decompress the AC system?
I have.. on 2002 2500 and on 2000 1500.. didnt touch the AC at all..but like I said in OP.. alot of ppl dont like the method I use.. but it works for me.. if you slide the core straight up and back in.. you shouldnt mess up the ac evap ..and some ppl dont like the aluminum cores..but they both have lasted over 2 years ..no problems.. just becareful.. some ppl get in a hurry..and I could see them messing up the ac evap real easy.. but if you want to do it.. how ever you are comfortable with
__________________
2000 Ram 1500 Reg Cab 4x4 , 5sp, Trailmaster? 4inch body lift , Rough Country 3inch lift, 2500 front coils, 5.2 K&N Air Filter/ Cold air, Headers no cats fm40's , American Eagle Alloys 16x12 wheels Fierce Attitude M/T 315/75/16's, Red truck club #19
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-21-2010, 06:58 PM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddnet View Post
I used the heater core you can get at autozone.. the new core will have tubes that you can swivel.. swivel the tubes so they will go back through the firewall... slide the heater core back down in the heater box....
I can't for the life of me figure out how you can get the core back in and have the tubes go through the wall. The just hit the dashboard, and if I line them up with the holes, there's no way the core will slide down in. They swivel, but they seem to protrude too far forward.

Think it would be ok if I cut the core tubes, lined everything up, and then use two small pieces of hose/clamps to reconnect it?

Seems the only other way is to pull the whole airbox. Which would involve having to decompress the AC.

Edit: I removed the two screws from the inside, and the four nuts from the engine bay. I can wiggle the airbox unit, but can't pull it out away from the firewall. If I could just get it 4-5 inches back I could slide the tubes in.

Last edited by Dodge33; 11-21-2010 at 07:58 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-21-2010, 08:30 PM
Baddnet Baddnet is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
Location: Belpre, Ohio
Posts: 151
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge33 View Post
I can't for the life of me figure out how you can get the core back in and have the tubes go through the wall. The just hit the dashboard, and if I line them up with the holes, there's no way the core will slide down in. They swivel, but they seem to protrude too far forward.

Think it would be ok if I cut the core tubes, lined everything up, and then use two small pieces of hose/clamps to reconnect it?

Seems the only other way is to pull the whole airbox. Which would involve having to decompress the AC.

Edit: I removed the two screws from the inside, and the four nuts from the engine bay. I can wiggle the airbox unit, but can't pull it out away from the firewall. If I could just get it 4-5 inches back I could slide the tubes in.
It takes a lil patience .. like I said. this method is not for every one.. but it does work..I start the tubes in.. then at same time swivel the core back down .. or maybe I just have been lucky..and hold my tongue just right..lol... I wouldnt ruin a new core by cutting the tubes.. just saying.. but it would work..
__________________
2000 Ram 1500 Reg Cab 4x4 , 5sp, Trailmaster? 4inch body lift , Rough Country 3inch lift, 2500 front coils, 5.2 K&N Air Filter/ Cold air, Headers no cats fm40's , American Eagle Alloys 16x12 wheels Fierce Attitude M/T 315/75/16's, Red truck club #19
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-23-2010, 10:53 PM
working4ev's Avatar
working4ev working4ev is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: i can fix broken can't fix stupid
Location: Hayward CA
Posts: 178
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Baddnet View Post
The instructions are good.. but I have done 2 of these...and can do it 2 hours.. remove screws from top of dash.. remove nuts/bolts holding steering column up.. loosen the 2 bolts on bottom of dash... the dash will now swing down.. remove heater core hoses from in/out tubes.. remove the 2 screws holding the tubes to the heater box ..they are located in side under the dash.. you will see them when you swing dash back.. use grinder.. cut tubes off old core.. pull tubes out through firewall.. pull core up out of heater box..it will pull straight up..
I used the heater core you can get at autozone.. the new core will have tubes that you can swivel.. swivel the tubes so they will go back through the firewall... slide the heater core back down in the heater box.... button it all back up..and your done.. I know some ppl.. dont agree with this method.. but it works and it is not such a pita.. just sayin


My friend thank you for this. I knew there was a way around the A/C discharging.

I have to give something back so here you go a picture is worth a thousand words.

After pulling the dash back remove the glove box, looking throw you can see the core.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/2-6.jpg

You need to work throw the glove box and the passenger side Aperale hole
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...egurl/1-26.jpg

Looking throw the passenger side dash.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/7-1.jpg

Now cut the two pipes off how ever you can I used a cut off saw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/5-2.jpg

The core will now pull out with a little wiggling and pulling.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/8.jpg


Now the fun part getting the new one in. This not an easy task I must say. But if you move the two tubes in just the right spot you can slide it in. Don't be afraid to tweak the core / tubes you can straighten every thing out once you get the core in the heater box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/10.jpg


FYI this is the shifter cable you need to remove.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/13.jpg


This is what my heater core looked like "I thing I should have done this 2 years ago"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/4-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/3-2.jpg


I hope this somehow gets to the DIY section I have found this way a lot easier and you do not need to mess with the A/C freon.
__________________
86 Dodge Dayton My fast ride
01 Dodge Ram 4x4 1500 quad cab Hard working. Mods 3' pro comp lift 33' AT tires round air cleaner
Sirius satellite radio

Last edited by working4ev; 11-23-2010 at 10:56 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-24-2010, 09:05 AM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by working4ev View Post
Now the fun part getting the new one in. This not an easy task I must say. But if you move the two tubes in just the right spot you can slide it in. Don't be afraid to tweak the core / tubes you can straighten every thing out once you get the core in the heater box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/10.jpg
That's my concern, not bending the new heater core tubes, or where it connects to the core itself, as I was worried that it might break. I guess if it breaks somewhere along the tube, no big deal. But if it crackes right where it mates up to the heater core, it'll be ruined.

Hopefully I can get this finished up this weekend.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-24-2010, 12:55 PM
working4ev's Avatar
working4ev working4ev is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: i can fix broken can't fix stupid
Location: Hayward CA
Posts: 178
Default

Sorry I did not get pictures of as it was going it But both hands were full.

Something to try grab the metal strap on the dash it is behind the second hole from the end on the passengers side. Now pull out because you are pulling on the metal strap it should not hurt the dash.

That strap is what is preventing the core from just dropping in.
__________________
86 Dodge Dayton My fast ride
01 Dodge Ram 4x4 1500 quad cab Hard working. Mods 3' pro comp lift 33' AT tires round air cleaner
Sirius satellite radio
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-24-2010, 01:38 PM
Baddnet Baddnet is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
Location: Belpre, Ohio
Posts: 151
Default

I'm glad it worked for you also.. so much easier..but not for the faint of heart..cause yes you do need to tweak a lil on core.. but nothing that hurts it..and was I wrong?? about how long it takes .. took ya about 2 hours from start to finish?

Quote:
Originally Posted by working4ev View Post
My friend thank you for this. I knew there was a way around the A/C discharging.

I have to give something back so here you go a picture is worth a thousand words.

After pulling the dash back remove the glove box, looking throw you can see the core.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/2-6.jpg

You need to work throw the glove box and the passenger side Aperale hole
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...egurl/1-26.jpg

Looking throw the passenger side dash.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/7-1.jpg

Now cut the two pipes off how ever you can I used a cut off saw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/5-2.jpg

The core will now pull out with a little wiggling and pulling.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/8.jpg


Now the fun part getting the new one in. This not an easy task I must say. But if you move the two tubes in just the right spot you can slide it in. Don't be afraid to tweak the core / tubes you can straighten every thing out once you get the core in the heater box.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/11.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/10.jpg


FYI this is the shifter cable you need to remove.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v132/Kashegurl/13.jpg


This is what my heater core looked like "I thing I should have done this 2 years ago"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/4-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...hegurl/3-2.jpg


I hope this somehow gets to the DIY section I have found this way a lot easier and you do not need to mess with the A/C freon.
__________________
2000 Ram 1500 Reg Cab 4x4 , 5sp, Trailmaster? 4inch body lift , Rough Country 3inch lift, 2500 front coils, 5.2 K&N Air Filter/ Cold air, Headers no cats fm40's , American Eagle Alloys 16x12 wheels Fierce Attitude M/T 315/75/16's, Red truck club #19

Last edited by Baddnet; 11-24-2010 at 04:55 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-24-2010, 04:40 PM
working4ev's Avatar
working4ev working4ev is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Vehicle: i can fix broken can't fix stupid
Location: Hayward CA
Posts: 178
Default

Will about 2 hours I had to stop and tack pictures. But I must say vary easy repair. I bet this is how the steelership dose it, Then bill you for 8 book hours.

Again thank you Baddnet I hope I made it a little easier for others with the pictures.

Took the truck for a drive to day man o man the heater gets hot now
__________________
86 Dodge Dayton My fast ride
01 Dodge Ram 4x4 1500 quad cab Hard working. Mods 3' pro comp lift 33' AT tires round air cleaner
Sirius satellite radio
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-25-2010, 02:02 PM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default

Ok, it's in. Just had to bend the core tubes a bit to make it fit. Before I was just worried I would crack the solder joints, but it seems to be alright.

Thanks all. Now if I can just get my dash put back together.......
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11-25-2010, 05:57 PM
forAk's Avatar
forAk forAk is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Vehicle: 99 1500 Sport Quad w/360 4X4
Location: Peters Creek Alaska
Posts: 11
Default

How did you get to the little screw holding the tubes down against the firewall? Not the one that has the ground strap. I mean, there was no way to pull the tubes out with that clamped down on the tubes. This was on my buddies 98.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 11-25-2010, 07:39 PM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default

Well it's back together.... mostly. Got everything plugged in, and the dash back up in place with the bolts in the sides and two screws top in place, so it's in position.

Now the issue..... the heat/air only blows through the defrost vents by the windshield. I know the control is connected, as it turns it on and off. But it doesn't seem to have any effect on where the air comes out. I thought at first maybe the dash just wasn't pushed up far enough to connect with the airbox, but it's there.

Also usually you hear a noise when switching vent controls from the servo motors or vent doors closing. Can't hear anything.

Well it's dark now, so I guess I'll pull the dash back off tomorrow, and see if somethings not connected right.

Looking on the positive side, I suppose if you had to pick only one vent for the heat to blow out of, the defrost would be it.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-25-2010, 07:41 PM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by forAk View Post
How did you get to the little screw holding the tubes down against the firewall? Not the one that has the ground strap. I mean, there was no way to pull the tubes out with that clamped down on the tubes. This was on my buddies 98.
I had a small short screwdriver.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-25-2010, 11:03 PM
jswain jswain is offline
Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Vehicle: 1998 Dodge Ram 4 X 4, 360, automatic
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 429
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge33 View Post
Well it's back together.... mostly. Got everything plugged in, and the dash back up in place with the bolts in the sides and two screws top in place, so it's in position.

Now the issue..... the heat/air only blows through the defrost vents by the windshield. I know the control is connected, as it turns it on and off. But it doesn't seem to have any effect on where the air comes out. I thought at first maybe the dash just wasn't pushed up far enough to connect with the airbox, but it's there.

Also usually you hear a noise when switching vent controls from the servo motors or vent doors closing. Can't hear anything.

Well it's dark now, so I guess I'll pull the dash back off tomorrow, and see if somethings not connected right.

Looking on the positive side, I suppose if you had to pick only one vent for the heat to blow out of, the defrost would be it.
Most likely left a vacuum line off or broke one. Make sure the vacuum line is intact and connected that runs through the firewall to the engine. Also, on mine I had to disconnect a juncion block of vacuum lines behind the dash. Make sure its back together if the first line mentioned is ok.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-26-2010, 12:02 PM
Dodge33 Dodge33 is offline
Amateur
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 41
Default

Lol, yeah forgot to reconnect the vacuum line cluster plug under the dash. I remember looking at yesterday wondering what it was. Reconnected and vents operate normally. Now to proceed with the rest of reassembly.

Speaking of vacuum leaks, I have the switch to defrost on acceleration issue as well which apparently is typically indicative of bad check valve in the engine compartment.

Last edited by Dodge33; 11-26-2010 at 12:04 PM..
Reply With Quote
Old 11-26-2010, 12:02 PM
 
 
 
Reply




Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:20 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails