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Transmission not shifting out of first after rebuild..

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Old 02-27-2011, 01:28 PM
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Default Transmission not shifting out of first after rebuild..

Trying to diagnose the problem....
Click the image to open in full size.

I know that the front clutch is engaging and disengaging, as is the rear band, because reverse works as does first. It holds in park and rolls in neutral...

The 1-2 shift is controlled by the front band, which is the part that failed in the first place necessitating the re-build. Rebuilt the VB, with a shift kit. Followed the instructions to a T, then triple checked my springs and *****.

I torqued the front band to 72inch-pds and backed off exactly 2-7/8ths a turn.

Click the image to open in full size.

The band was a new heavy duty one.

Now I'll admit, I made two major judgement errors in the rebuild. The first was re-using the old TC...
The second was not replacing my electricals on the VB.

Its possible this problem is a bad connection, its possible a bad governor solenoid.

I omitted this step in the rebuild of the Valve body, because I didn't want the harder shift.
Click the image to open in full size.
I put that part back stock, no grinding, stock spring...

So I assume that I should tighten the band first and then see if I get any difference, then the next step would be to test the pressure at the test ports....

Then probably drop the valve body.

After reading more and more into it, I'm convinced not changing the TC was a mistake. NAPA has one, so I'm going to get it.
No need to save that $200. Just sucks I'm gonna drop the Tranny again...

Though even if the TQ was crapped out, I should still get a 1-2 shift.
Right??

What else can cause my transmission to not even attempt to shift?
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Last edited by nolazach; 02-27-2011 at 01:31 PM..
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Old 02-27-2011, 01:31 PM
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Disconnect the eight pin connector by the shift linkage, and then see if the truck will manually shift thru the gears.
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Old 02-27-2011, 01:42 PM
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Also check adjustment on TV cable.

Dave
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:05 PM
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TV cable looks good, as it has no lag, and moves with the throttle.
I was under the impression that a TV cable would cause a bad shift, not no shift.

I tried to manually shift it to second, ran up to nearly 5,000 RPMs still nada.

Trying everything outside the case first. Not looking forward to going inside the trans again. But I am going to change the Tc.
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nolazach View Post
TV cable looks good, as it has no lag, and moves with the throttle.
I was under the impression that a TV cable would cause a bad shift, not no shift.

I tried to manually shift it to second, ran up to nearly 5,000 RPMs still nada.

Trying everything outside the case first. Not looking forward to going inside the trans again. But I am going to change the Tc.
In order for that test to be effective, you must disconnect the electrical connector on the drivers side of the trans. (disables PCM contol of governor)
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:49 PM
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Okay, going to test that next.
I'm afraid to road test during the day, as we have some pretty mean cops around here and I have no brake tag (inspection sticker) or license plate on the truck.
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:51 PM
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Priced the solenoids, Govenor control is $90 and the others are $65...
at Rock Auto...
not cheap for something so small.
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Old 02-27-2011, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nolazach View Post
Priced the solenoids, Govenor control is $90 and the others are $65...
at Rock Auto...
not cheap for something so small.
Size doesn't matter.........
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Old 02-27-2011, 03:26 PM
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Okay..

Got a paper plate from a friend, its still illegal, but I'm less likely to be stopped...

Unplugged connector. It now shifts.. In 2 it starts out slow and can handle a higher speed, dropping it down to first cause a solid downshift and a rise in engine speed.

So, this tells me I either have a bad connection or a bad govenor solenoid. Since I have second and first, I can rule out a bad band adjustment..

So it looks like I'll have to drop the VB.

Is there anyway I can test the solenoid? I didn't have this problem before I put the tranny up..

But thanks for pointing out to do this, at least I narrowed my problems down.

In D, its not supposed to shift with the plug off?
Just wondering because it didn't, also tact doesn't work when harness is out.
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Old 02-27-2011, 03:50 PM
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Actually you have tested the solenoid by disconnecting the 8 pin connector.....By it now shifting through the gears manually, you now know the governor solenoid is capable of full pressure...When the pin was connected you have zero pressure at idle in drive, with the harness disconnected you have full gov pressure, this is why you can shift it manually....At this point if I were to change anything in valve body, it would be the Governor sensor, not the solenoid....The solenoid is the one sits vertical on VB and the sensor sits horizontal.....


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Old 02-27-2011, 04:19 PM
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I can get both from eBay for $100 or just the sensor from Napa or Autozone for $100.

I also noticed that a lot are remans... I hate buying re-manufactured parts.

I only have 1st and second gear with the harness unplugged. I was thinking of just changing the harness and both the solenoids attached to it, then the gov sensor and solenoid for piece of mind..

I'd hate to drain the fluid, change one part and find out it was the other.

I don't want to keep dropping the VB...

Thanks for the help y'all. I need to see what sensor I have, looks like they changed it up in 1999.
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:44 PM
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For the governor sensor and solenoid, you don't have to drop the whole valve body.

DO NOT use reman parts. You will be in there again a lot sooner than you would like. Get NEW parts. Something else to consider would be the GM sensor/solenoid conversion. Runs almost 300 bucks though I think..... solves a lot of the problems with the dodge system. (self cleaning pressure solenoid, and sensor that doesn't saturate at WOT)
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:16 PM
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I don't think anything is wrong with my Governor Solenoid. Since i'm familiar with Solenoids (always just copper wrapped around a ferrous metal to push a piston) I decided to take it apart and clean it. I saw people were selling re-manufactured ones on eBay for $80.
So I figured at worst I could re-wrap the copper.

I took mine apart and it had tons of metal shavings all inside of it. I got it really clean, checked it, with 12VDC applied the piston moves. The little check ball inside of it was stuck in the aluminum part of the sensor.. So I just cleaned everything really well and put it back together, tested it,and I'm confident it is working. So I'm just going to buy the pressure sensor, I took that apart only to find out it is 100% non serviceable..

I took pics and I will put the step by step process up.. In case anyone else wants to see whats inside the Governor Solenoid.

I hope, that the pressure sensor is it, I have to wait for a new one to come in, no one had it in stock. Though I didn't try dodge, but I never really buy factory parts.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:19 PM
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Don't use Reman sensors/solenoids. They don't have a good track record.

Were the metal shavings leftovers from before? Or are they post-rebuild shavings???? That might not be a good sign....
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:32 PM
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Pre-Rebuild... The truck drove maybe 1/10 of a mile post rebuild. The pan was clean and not a flake on the magnet.

I hear what your saying but $135 is just a crazy price for that little solenoid. I can get at it and remove it in 10 minutes. This truck is my third vehicle and I just don't have the funds to keep buying stuff that high dollar. If the sensor fixes the problem then I'm golden, if not I have bigger problems. I'll probably replace the solenoid anyway when I change the filter, which I plan on doing at 5,000 miles. post rebuild.

I got a new sensor coming. Not reman, I didn't buy a reman solenoid, I just took mine apart ande cleaned it very well, put it back together and tested it. Who knows maybe the check ball will stick again, though there are no magnatized shavings this time.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:41 PM
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Yeah, some of those pieces/parts command a premium price..... something that looks like it should cost five bucks, goes for 50..... or 500....... some of the prices shock the bejesus right out of me. One of the reasons I don't drive imports........ (although, the Conquest was technically a dodge..... parts for that were hideously expensive too....)
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:45 PM
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Was the band anchor installed ? I can not see the anchor in the pic of your tranny ? Look's to be a stock strut ? With the (518) the anchor and strut would fall out and she wont shift out of first without light throttle and higher RPM'S. Once in second you have to nurse it to third or she will downshifts back to first.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:31 PM
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Oh ,thats not even my pic, I took that one of the diy to cause me and him used the same band..

The band is on and at 72inch-pds (then backed of 2-7/8ths a turn).

I can get second with the 8-pin unplugged and 2nd is impossible to get without the front band.

Oh and HeyYou, I decided to go ahead and replace both parts. I found a good deal, (both new for $99)..

So I'm just doing them both.
From searching deeper into this site i found out how to manually cause the solenoids to engage via the PCM.

So if the new parts dont fix my problem then I will get a pressure gauge and start searching more.

I just hope I put nothing is wrong inside the VB..
Might as well just replace with new parts for piece of mind...

I'll post again after I install the new parts..
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:45 PM
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Not tranny your pic's. Your wording sounded like it was. My bad. I had a stock strut and anchor fall out and i still had seconcd just had to be nurse it to third with a light pedal. Also when the strut falls out it can jam the linkage sitting ontop the VB. Was recommended to back off only 2 turns on both bands.
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:00 PM
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I backed off two on the rear, I saw a couple of people saying 1.5-2 on the front so I may tigthen it a little, I made marks on my case at the 12, 6 and halfway between the 1 and 2 o'clock positions as to make setting it easier..

I was gonna put a picture of my set-up in but I changed the picture because I was having problems with "tinypic"..
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:00 PM
 
 
 
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