Trying to diagnose the problem....


I know that the front clutch is engaging and disengaging, as is the rear band, because reverse works as does first. It holds in park and rolls in neutral...

The 1-2 shift is controlled by the front band, which is the part that failed in the first place necessitating the re-build. Rebuilt the VB, with a shift kit. Followed the instructions to a T, then triple checked my springs and *****.

I torqued the front band to 72inch-pds and backed off exactly 2-7/8ths a turn.



The band was a new heavy duty one.

Now I'll admit, I made two major judgement errors in the rebuild. The first was re-using the old TC...
The second was not replacing my electricals on the VB.

Its possible this problem is a bad connection, its possible a bad governor solenoid.

I omitted this step in the rebuild of the Valve body, because I didn't want the harder shift.

I put that part back stock, no grinding, stock spring...

So I assume that I should tighten the band first and then see if I get any difference, then the next step would be to test the pressure at the test ports....

Then probably drop the valve body.

After reading more and more into it, I'm convinced not changing the TC was a mistake. NAPA has one, so I'm going to get it.
No need to save that $200. Just sucks I'm gonna drop the Tranny again...

Though even if the TQ was crapped out, I should still get a 1-2 shift.
Right??

What else can cause my transmission to not even attempt to shift?

 

Disconnect the eight pin connector by the shift linkage, and then see if the truck will manually shift thru the gears.

 

Also check adjustment on TV cable.

Dave

 

TV cable looks good, as it has no lag, and moves with the throttle.
I was under the impression that a TV cable would cause a bad shift, not no shift.

I tried to manually shift it to second, ran up to nearly 5,000 RPMs still nada.

Trying everything outside the case first. Not looking forward to going inside the trans again. But I am going to change the Tc.

 

In order for that test to be effective, you must disconnect the electrical connector on the drivers side of the trans. (disables PCM contol of governor)

 

Okay, going to test that next.
I'm afraid to road test during the day, as we have some pretty mean cops around here and I have no brake tag (inspection sticker) or license plate on the truck.

 

Priced the solenoids, Govenor control is $90 and the others are $65...
at Rock Auto...
not cheap for something so small.

 

Size doesn't matter.........

 

Okay..

Got a paper plate from a friend, its still illegal, but I'm less likely to be stopped...

Unplugged connector. It now shifts.. In 2 it starts out slow and can handle a higher speed, dropping it down to first cause a solid downshift and a rise in engine speed.

So, this tells me I either have a bad connection or a bad govenor solenoid. Since I have second and first, I can rule out a bad band adjustment..

So it looks like I'll have to drop the VB.

Is there anyway I can test the solenoid? I didn't have this problem before I put the tranny up..

But thanks for pointing out to do this, at least I narrowed my problems down.

In D, its not supposed to shift with the plug off?
Just wondering because it didn't, also tact doesn't work when harness is out.

 

Actually you have tested the solenoid by disconnecting the 8 pin connector.....By it now shifting through the gears manually, you now know the governor solenoid is capable of full pressure...When the pin was connected you have zero pressure at idle in drive, with the harness disconnected you have full gov pressure, this is why you can shift it manually....At this point if I were to change anything in valve body, it would be the Governor sensor, not the solenoid....The solenoid is the one sits vertical on VB and the sensor sits horizontal.....


Brian