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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
I had a 1/4 alum. plate cut at a local shop using my steel one as a template don't have enough miles on the new motor to give a good answer on how well it works I kind of like that there isn't any expansion noise anymore when you can hear that snap crackle pop as everything cools down you'll find you have problems with the steel one blowing the rubber gasket out the sides of the steel plate, I believe the 1/4 piece is about the same thickness as the engine block and the hat so should cool about the same rate. heard later that tossing the rubber gasket for a cork one is suppose to work better I'm unsure but if I ever have to do another one that is what I'll use, my heads were cracked, a common problem with these engines at a 150,thousand miles I replaced the engine and used a 1/4" alum. plate I had made up. cost me $60 for that to be made. hoping it works and the motor will last a lot longer. I couldn't find one that came in a kit, this shop did a good job for me he fabs up odd ball things for me that I come up with or hear about.
I had one built at Auto Dynamics in Casper ,WY. that's all they do is remanufacture engines this is my 4th motor they have assembled for me top notch, the same guys have been there for years they got pride in putting them together right, they couldn't take the ribbing if one ever came back. I did have to drop off my case, as the year is an odd ball they don't have sitting around, takes about 5 days if I remember, they'll put what ever you want in it, that can be done that is lol
I recently replaced my plenum gasket, it was blown in 6 spots, pinged like a **** ! I bought the truck used and the guy told me he had a tuner and lost it so it stuck to run on premium gas.... I didn't think at the time to check the plenum as it was raining cats n dogs. But since changing it the pinging has stopped, more responsive when I get on it, I went from 200 per tank of gas to 350 ( I haven't did the math yet for actual MPG ) new plugs, wires, cap and rotor as well as TPS since the old one broke unplugging it. Fresh oil with seafoam to clean out all the gunk in the block as the plenum was caked in carbon. All the sparkplugs that came out were various brands... that idiot doesn't need another vehicle. Other things Ive done was all new shocks, tires, damper.. making it mine.
Heat wasn't working well, replaced water pump... Then found the thermostat was crudded up and so much gasket maker the guy used, just crazy. So corrected it all while doing the plenum.
Hope to help someone with this info. I've done mine after alot of reading but I guess it was still good.
My 5.2 99 dakota with 59,000 miles on it was using some oil and after I looked inside the plenum through the TB valve and saw some oil in there I was almost sure it was leaking.
I did replace the PCV valve prior to that and also did the crankcase pressure test, which showed the plenum gasket leak would be very small if any, but once I was using about 1/4 every 1,500 miles...
Decided to take it apart and not use the thick aluminum plate, just keep the OEM steel pan. There is a great series of videos on youtube posted by Matt Payne, very good info, he had to re-do all his Hughes kit work after a few days because the plenum pan bolts got loose, always use thread lock.
Thing is I think it was not leaking and the oil in there was coming from the PCV, even the new PCV valve allows a substantial amount of motor oil to pass.
The original gasket was stuck to the steel pan and not to the aluminum plenum, but in 1 piece, not warped and there was alot of oil on the plenum pan but I am almost sure all came from the PCV valve.
I had some hard work to take the gasket off the steel pan, it came out in pieces.
I didn't have to touch the radiator, just the AC compressor.
The inside of the plenum was really dirty
The intake gasket cleaning was the worst part I think
I washed the plenum and pan with gas and a paintbrush at 1st, then steelwool, steelbrush and after I give up let it overnight in a drum with tide like soap and water...
It was not perfect but good enough for me at that point
In my case I could verify that the OEM plenum bolts were not too long so that was not the issue, the original plenum bolts did bottom without the pan plate
I know what people say but I used the Dorman kit. The bolts that came with the kit have some thread lock on it but I put a small amount of black Permatex on both sides of the gasket the gasket and bolts (have to be quick)
The Dorman kit also has the new intake bolts, I did not use the thermostat, rather keep the OEM but the kit comes with all gaskets and O rings
I did torque the plenum pan bolts with black permatex and re-checked them twice. The plenum gasket provided in the kit has a metal sheet in the middle and doesn't look as good as felpro but with the permatex I am pretty sure I am ok.
The work is not difficult at all just time consuming, took me 14 hrs total but I take my time.
I think the aluminum plate fix may be better but a number of engines did come with longer bolts that were the issue because they did not allow proper torque to be applied to the gasket, not in my case.
I think if not turbocharged, mine will be ok for another 60,000 miles. I put only about 8,000 mi so far because she is not a daily drive anymore.
Yes the oil consumption is the same as before, I did install an oil catch can that collects some good amount of oil but I think I have one or more valve stem seals leaking too (smoke when start).
Did a compression test and cylinder 7 intake valve leaks a bit showing 120 PSI all other cylinders show 150 psi, guess it is not like new but rings are still good for me, wet compression test shows increase of 25 PSI on all cylinders.
If you plan on doing this plenum fix because of oil use and you are not sure, I suggest to do the crankcase pressure test and cylinder compression test before.
As far as the PCV valve you'd be amazed to see how much oil it can suck, after the oil catch can, cfm being sucked by the intake reduced alot too.
True, was sucking from PCV and pan... replaced all my pcv valves as well, but before the plenum pan I was sucking 5 qts oil every 600 miles... that was bad, funny thing is, truck didn't smoke a bit? odd.
08-26-2016, 07:38 AM
