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Removing brake drum

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Old 05-28-2011, 09:49 AM
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Default Removing brake drum

I'd like to remove my brake shoes, but I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the drum off, do any of you guys have tips? It's really rusted in, and hammering really isnt getting me anywhere.
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:07 AM
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try this.

put the rear axle on stands.

Remove wheels and put one lug nut back on each side of the rear drums. Just a few threads on, not tightened or torqued.

Hop in truck and turn it on. make sure you're in 2WD only. Shift into drive and give it just a little gas, stomp on brakes. Then shift into reverse give a little gas and stomp on the brakes. turn off truck.

go back and see if the hubs are loose now. 95% of the time this works like a charm. The one lug nut on each side just insures you aren't chasing the drum down the street should it break loose violently.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aim4squirrels View Post
95% of the time this works like a charm. The one lug nut on each side just insures you aren't chasing the drum down the street should it break loose violently.
lmao....!
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:56 PM
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lol im going to do these drum brakes so im researching and laughed so hard when i saw that aim4 LOL
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:08 PM
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It's funny, because it's true.

If you take the wheels off in the evening, shoot every lug with rust penetrant. and reach in behind the hub and shoot more from behind. give itthe night to work and go after it in the morning.

With 200,000 miles on yours, I'd splurge for the Mopar rust penetrant at the dealership over PB Blaster. Costs basically the same, works much better. Heard Kroil and Mouse Milk works well too. Kroil is hard for me to find, and Mouse Milk has a very short shelf life. The Mopar penetrant should be available at every dealer. It hasn't let me down yet.

I used the Mopar stuff on my exhaust manifolds and it basically "melted" the rust off and crept 2/3s of the way into the stud threads in the heads. Didn't snap one off, and the studs came out easily with vise grips. I sprayed each one liberally the night before. I was sold after that.
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:17 PM
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aim4squirrels.
Alright so im going to attempt to replace both my rear drum and shoes. Was thinking about buying two of these kits (if you can recommend any that are as good and cheaper im all ears)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BKD033/

Im going to stop by and get some Mopar Rust Penetrating spray per your suggestion and hit everything with that stuff. Since I have to do it at a friends after I take the wheel off and spray everything am I still good to drive it or should i just hit the lug studs put it back on then when I get home spray the F outta everything inside?

I can't find one DIY here for drums and shoes so I guess I will be writting one up for us. Just gotta get the fuel pump done so I can start on this. :P

Advanced thanks for the help aim
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:20 PM
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Should only need one of those kits.

Check prices at your local parts stores as well.......
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:35 PM
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Holy crap that's a good price, on advance and autozone it is 20 buck for the shoes and 45 each for the drums add in another 11 bucks for the spring kit.
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:16 PM
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Hey You dont I need one kit per side??? Im planning on doing both it doesnt say anything about a pair
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:25 PM
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The fine print at the bottom of the ad:

The kits include brake shoes, cast iron brake drums, and the hardware required to replace your old, worn-out brakes.

There are plurals there, and for the price, if that was just one side........ buying them from the dealer would be cheaper. Also, I have never seen brakes shoes come in anything other than a complete set. You cannot buy them individually.......
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:25 PM
 
 
 
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