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Removing brake drum

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  #1  
Old 05-28-2011, 09:49 AM
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RebelChewer RebelChewer is offline
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Default Removing brake drum

I'd like to remove my brake shoes, but I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the drum off, do any of you guys have tips? It's really rusted in, and hammering really isnt getting me anywhere.
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Old 05-28-2011, 10:07 AM
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try this.

put the rear axle on stands.

Remove wheels and put one lug nut back on each side of the rear drums. Just a few threads on, not tightened or torqued.

Hop in truck and turn it on. make sure you're in 2WD only. Shift into drive and give it just a little gas, stomp on brakes. Then shift into reverse give a little gas and stomp on the brakes. turn off truck.

go back and see if the hubs are loose now. 95% of the time this works like a charm. The one lug nut on each side just insures you aren't chasing the drum down the street should it break loose violently.
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aim4squirrels View Post
95% of the time this works like a charm. The one lug nut on each side just insures you aren't chasing the drum down the street should it break loose violently.
lmao....!
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:56 PM
TheycallmeLaramie TheycallmeLaramie is offline
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lol im going to do these drum brakes so im researching and laughed so hard when i saw that aim4 LOL
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:08 PM
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It's funny, because it's true.

If you take the wheels off in the evening, shoot every lug with rust penetrant. and reach in behind the hub and shoot more from behind. give itthe night to work and go after it in the morning.

With 200,000 miles on yours, I'd splurge for the Mopar rust penetrant at the dealership over PB Blaster. Costs basically the same, works much better. Heard Kroil and Mouse Milk works well too. Kroil is hard for me to find, and Mouse Milk has a very short shelf life. The Mopar penetrant should be available at every dealer. It hasn't let me down yet.

I used the Mopar stuff on my exhaust manifolds and it basically "melted" the rust off and crept 2/3s of the way into the stud threads in the heads. Didn't snap one off, and the studs came out easily with vise grips. I sprayed each one liberally the night before. I was sold after that.
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:17 PM
TheycallmeLaramie TheycallmeLaramie is offline
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aim4squirrels.
Alright so im going to attempt to replace both my rear drum and shoes. Was thinking about buying two of these kits (if you can recommend any that are as good and cheaper im all ears)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-BKD033/

Im going to stop by and get some Mopar Rust Penetrating spray per your suggestion and hit everything with that stuff. Since I have to do it at a friends after I take the wheel off and spray everything am I still good to drive it or should i just hit the lug studs put it back on then when I get home spray the F outta everything inside?

I can't find one DIY here for drums and shoes so I guess I will be writting one up for us. Just gotta get the fuel pump done so I can start on this. :P

Advanced thanks for the help aim
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:20 PM
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Should only need one of those kits.

Check prices at your local parts stores as well.......
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Old 08-02-2011, 04:35 PM
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Holy crap that's a good price, on advance and autozone it is 20 buck for the shoes and 45 each for the drums add in another 11 bucks for the spring kit.
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:16 PM
TheycallmeLaramie TheycallmeLaramie is offline
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Hey You dont I need one kit per side??? Im planning on doing both it doesnt say anything about a pair
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:25 PM
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The fine print at the bottom of the ad:

The kits include brake shoes, cast iron brake drums, and the hardware required to replace your old, worn-out brakes.

There are plurals there, and for the price, if that was just one side........ buying them from the dealer would be cheaper. Also, I have never seen brakes shoes come in anything other than a complete set. You cannot buy them individually.......
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:34 PM
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look under the Kit/Combo Contents tab. It's both sides in one kit.

Tip #1

When you get both drums off, stop! Only pull the springs/shoes off one side at a time. You can use the other side as a reference for how it should go back together.

Tip #2

If you have a cell phone handy, take a picture after each step. Then you can visibly see each step and what you did, and reverse the process by going thru the pictures.

Tip #3

Pay special attention to the thin metal bracket that looks like it almost touches this star shaped bolt that pushes the shoes apart down near the bottom. That is the self adjuster, and though pretty much all self adjusters suck, it'll suck even worse if it gets bent out of the correct orientation. That tab is very easy to bend, so reference the correct orientation for it, before you remove it.

Tip #4

There are tiny little thin washers behind the shoes. Don't lose those, they keep a bit of space between the parts and let air in and gases and dust out. The brakes can seize up without them.

Tip #5

Make sure the "star" or self adjusters are tight before you drive off. There should be a cut out on the back side of the axle with a rubber plug in it. when you get the wheels back on, jack up the rear of the truck, put it in neutral, pull that plug and get a brake spoon or screwdriver and push that adjuster around while spinning the wheel until you just feel some drag from the new shoes. The self adjusters suck on pretty much every car, but I've been told that if you put anti-seize on the threads of the "star" piece, they work a bit better. I have not verified that is a safe thing to do so defer to others for confirmation.

Tip #6

A Haynes or Chilton manual can go a long way on this particular job.

Tip #7

There are pins that go thru the back of the plate, they have a spring and a cap that you have to compress and then twist the cap to get them to seat. They are little bitches to get back together. They make a tool to shove the spring down and twist the cap. Worth the money. You can do it without, but polish up on your cussing. Good luck.


Tip #8

They make a special tool to reseat the long coiled springs, called brake spring pliers. Buy them, or rent if they offer it. I tried to use a screwdriver to pivot under the hook of the spring and back onto the mount, almost stabbed myself with the screwdriver twice, and damn near fish-hooked my lip with the spring once.
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:37 PM
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JackJ by my math the autozone/advance price is $1.80 cheaper and no shipping to boot. and warranties collectible right down the road. shoes are sold both sides, as are hardware kits. so 20 for shoes,90 for drums and 11 for hardware = $121.00. Right?
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:48 PM
TheycallmeLaramie TheycallmeLaramie is offline
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HeyYou, darnit your right again who would of thunk it? If you click on items included in the kit it shoes you two drums then a set of shoes (4 pieces) and the hardware kit. The devil is in the detail and you must be friends huh :P
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:53 PM
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AIM, i hate too double post, but you are freaking awesome. You and HeyYou need some awards. MODS can we make a DodgeForumn Helper of the year award that we can vote on or something, would be cool .

I appreciate the tips immensely. I have the 96 Service manual and I will have the haynes on hand. I will take pictures of each step and hopefully we can post them inbetween your tips add a little bit to it and make it into a DIY. Every tip you suggested Sounds spot on, and I will look into the anti-seize idea and see if its safe. Just wanted to say thanks again.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:59 PM
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I ALWAYS put anti-seize on the self adjusters. It DOES help, but, not all self adjusters are so "self adjusting"..... All ya really gotta do is put a dab on the end threads, and when you screw it in all the way for brake assembly, it distributes itself nicely. (if you get just a bit squeezing out when you run the adjuster all the way in, you used enough.)
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Old 08-02-2011, 09:24 PM
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Oh BTW,

self adjusters supposedly work by ratcheting tighter when you brake in reverse. I always jab them really hard a few times when I back out of the driveway
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:21 PM
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I just started this job this evening, I failed horribly when the removable cap on the adjuster screw decided it wanted to be free. Just one quick queston, when I get every thing back together do I adjust the screw initially before I put the two top spring on or after. I ask because the retaining spring on the front shoe does not line up with the hole even with the screw fully collapsed while the bottom spring is installed.
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Old 08-02-2011, 11:53 PM
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I put everything together first, put the drum on, and then adjust...... step on the pedal a couple times, maybe start the truck, and run it in drive, brake, reverse, brake, shut it down, and finish adjustment. (rear end off the ground, drums secured, that way, using the brakes will make sure everything is 'in the right place', and your initial adjustment will last longer.)
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:13 AM
TheycallmeLaramie TheycallmeLaramie is offline
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I still cant believe with all the knowledge on dodgeforum there isn't one picture of someone doing their drums and brakes mindboggling. Either that or Stone beer is mindboggling and ima happy camper

OH BTW AWESOME:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/Brakes/brake_job.htm

Last edited by TheycallmeLaramie; 08-03-2011 at 12:21 AM..
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Old 08-03-2011, 12:13 AM
 
 
 
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