2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
So I bought a non running 1996 Ram 1500, 4x4 5.2L and I just can't seem to get it started. Changed the cap and rotor, plugs, and IAC valve. The struck will start up if it's been sitting for a couple hours but I have to hold it at WOT for it to just idle at 1000 rpms which it very roughly holds. I checked the firing order on the cap and its all correct. I got the po505 code when I put my scanner on it. If I let it stall it's real hard to get it fired right back up. I checked compression, 120psi all around. Checked fuel pressure at the rail, 45psi. and did the old spark check test. Got spark on all 8 wires. My next idea was to take out the throttle body and clean the IAC passages. I love playing with someone elses headaches haha Anybody have any ideas?
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That 505 code is an indication that the PCM is seeing a short to ground or a short to voltage in the idle control motor wiring circuit.You already changed the IAC, so it could be wiring, or heaven forbid a bad IAC. I have had to return parts many times until I found one that would work. I would def clean the mess out of the TB, make sure the passage is clear. Also check this out http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...um-thread.html
I have seen a completely blocked cat cause the same problem. If the plenum is blown and has been driven for a long time that could def be the problem.
EDIT: Is this the same problem you were having when you bought the truck, or would it not run at all then?
The Green Monster
1998 Dodge Ram 1500 QC
5.2 / Hughes Air Gap FI Intake Manifold / 1.7 HS RR / SCT / PATC 46RE Level 2 Trans
Truck hasnt ran since i bought it, lk I said I love coming up behind other ppls problems haha. I did spray the crap outta the throttle body with 2+2 and it didnt budge an ounce. I did read somewhere a clogged cat could cause this to so I'm going to take the pre cat o2 sensor out and see what happens. Hopefully it works.
Pull the O2 sensor (pre cat) and see if it fires. If it's a plugged cat the removal of the sensor can help it releive the back pressure.
I do not think it's exhaust causing this problem, I would guess it's a lack of fuel since you have to keep on the throttle to keep it running. When it doesnt want to start, try having a assistant tryt to start it and see if you can spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and see if it wants to start. Be carefull...
I have also used a small amount of gas, very small but that is a little more dangerous and you could flood it causing it to not start at all too.
It's getting fuel, like I said it has good fuel pressure, 45 psi. And it doesnt want to start nemore than before when I spray starter fluid in it. I havent put a noid light on it to verify if my injectors are actually working.
Well it wasn't the cat. Pulled the pipes off the manifolds(o2 sensor was giving me a fit to come off) Still didnt want to start. I checked the spark again for ****s n gigs and i got yellow spark. I just put a new coil on it so that aint it. My next step is to try changing wires and or the cam pos sensor under the rotor.
So ive now replaced, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, cam pos sensor/pickup coil. Did an injector test with my solus snap on scanner and every valve clicked for each injector. So wouldnt that mean I have injector pulse? The scanner reads 0.0 mS for the injectors tho when I crank the motor. Does that mean my pcm is bad? And right after i prime it with fuel and crank itll make some puffing noises out the intake. I'm really at a loss on what to do. The motors been replaced before and someone suggested it might of went out of time.
If your scanner is telling you zero injector pulse width, you need to find out WHY it is doing so. Can you monitor which injector should be firing??? Will it tell you that? Getting spark? Got fuel pressure?? Timing is purely mechanical. It can't get out of time, without something breaking, or, someone's intervention. (or, a loose distributor clamp....)
Nah wont tell me which one should be firing when, will tell me the pulse width for each individual one. It has fuel pressure and has spark. And im pretty sure the timing is on. I pulled the #1 plug and brought it to TDC and the rotor was pointing at #1 on the cap. Im wondering if i need a pcm. I still get my P0505 code and it has a new iac valve and the throttle body is as free of carbon as it gets.
Havent changed the crank pos sensor, but the rpms shoot up a lil when I start it and my scanner reads the rpm's so shouldnt that be working? And I don't believe mine has that resistor, someone said they usually have em on the firewall but I dont see it. Changed out the pcm and it did nothing, Put a test light on my injectors but only one made it light up, pulled the map sensor connector and didnt change anything. Im at a loss.
i would pull the pre cat o2 out and try to start it my 99 had the same issue and mine was a clogged cat and if it is you can get a bolt up magnaflow high flow cat for 216 free shipping just a heads up
If this does end up being a cat issue, order the magnaflow bolt up from this website, its the cheapest i found, and i had no issues with the site, came the day they said it should and has both holes for a pre and post 02 sensor, but if your truck doesnt have the post it comes with a plug, its pretty simple to install except you need too weld the driver side y pipe to the cat.