2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
One of mine is broken too. NO, the dealer wants you to buy the entire arm for about $120, even though the fix is a 2 cent roller. I am looking into going to a junkyard and getting one that way. Grease the tracks when and if you fix it, and post here to tell us what you did. I will do the same, and whoever fixes it first can help steer the other guy in the right direction!
Thats what I'm most likely to do. When I called the dealership, they wanted $220 for the regulator with motor (they wouldn't sell me just the regulator or just the roller for that matter). Seimens VDO supplies Autozone with a replacement regulator that sells for about $68 but Autozone claims that Seimens is backordered and can't supply them with any at this time. Rockauto.com sells one supplied from Dorman for $80. I'm with you and will try the salvage yards since this should be the least expensive by far. I'll post again when I get it fixed.
I went to a salvage yard, but dummy me didn't bring pliers and I couldn't pry one off with a screwdriver.
But I MAY have fixed it anyway. I went to Home Depot, looked where they have drawer slides/rollers (Aisle 13 at my Home Depot), and found a European Self-Closing Bottom-Mount Door Slides that has rollers in it not too different from what we need. The rollers are bigger, the hole is narrower, and it isn't quite as thick (if you set it down next to the broken roller like a donut on a table, it doesn't go quite as high), but I figured I could work with it. Then I drilled out a roller drilling through the pin from the back.
After I got it off, I got a 3/8" drill bit and drilled out the roller, but made sure it gripped it so it would turn the roller, and grinded it down on sandpaper to be no wider than the broken roller. Then I widened the hole some, even a little wider than 3/8" by reaming it with the 3/8" bit a little.
I then went to the door, used needle nose pliers to pry back the bent in metal at the end of the track, top and bottom, took off the nut that holds the window onto the track and pushed out the screw so I could fit the roller on the track, and pushed it over to the mushroom pin. I pulled on the arm so the pin came out of the track, slid the roller over to line up with the mushroom pin, and set it in the hole. I didn't have to push much for it to go in. Then I greased the wheel and whole surrounding track area on both sides of both rollers, and put back the nut on the screw that holds the window to the track and tightened it. I ran the window all the way up and down about 7 times, and it worked fine. That's not to say it won't break on the next try, but it works fine for now. I will test it out over time some before putting my door panel back on. It seems to be as strong as the original roller, but I guess time will tell.
The slides that have the rollers are white, metal, about 14 inches long, and come in a pack of 4 slides and 4 rollers for $4.99. It is made in China, and the number on the bottom of the scan sticker is 81266 17521. There is a green sticker holding the slides together, and says Bottom Mount 12"/300 mm D68812 Self-Closing Bottom Mount.
Now that's ingenuity! I'll go by Home Depot tonight, pick one up, and try it. And you even get extra rollers in case you screw up! I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks for including so much detail in your instructions.
OK, be sure to post back letting me know how it goes. I still have my door panel off just in case, but it's been up and down more than 20 times with no problem. I plan to put back on the panel after I get back from my trip in the truck on Friday. Be sure to grease the rollers with lithium grease and grind that roller so it is even (lay the outside of the roller flat on the sandpaper and not at an angle).
Well, I finally got it installed yesterday. Just as you decribed, I modified and practice-fitted the rollers until I got them to firmly snap onto the regulator arms. The rollers were slightly thinner than the original rollers, so I didn't have to reduce them in that direction. I opened up the hole just as you instructed and that seemed to do the trick. I also took a Dremel drill with a small stone ball bit and tapered the hole similar to the original roller. The outside diameter of the rollers were a bit too large for the track so I turned them down a bit and they fit perfectly. I got to hand it to you Doug, these rollers worked out perfect for this application. How on earth did you stumble across these? I greased them up so that they moved in the track without any friction. After installing the rollers to the rail and bolting the rail back onto the window, I snapped the regulators onto the rollers and the window raised and lowered without problems. I worked the window up and down about 15 to 20 times and added just a little more lithium grease for good measure. I decided to put the door panel back on. I can't thank you enough for your help with this.
I heard a pop, then the window would slant as it came up. If I held the one end and pulled, it went up ok, but if not, it would come up with one side higher than the other. I took off the door panel and looked to see what was wrong. The one roller was broken and in two pieces in the roller track.
DougMD, you are the MAN! I thought, this fix is too good to be true, however I will do anything to avoid the dreaded dealership. I am no mechanic, went to Home Depot anyway, found the rollers, $4.99. I started reaming them out on the drill, center holes still a little too small, heated them up with the heat gun, greased them up and popped them on. It's been two months, window works like new, thanks Doug
One of mine broke about 50k miles ago. Split in half from the outer rim through the hole. I tied it back together with about 6 or 7 loops of air force .020 "safety wire". I guess farmers would call it "bailing wire". Stainless steel ... rustproof. Still working ...
Silver Truck Club member #26
98 1500 4x4 SLT Laramie Quad 5.9L Auto 3.55 LSD 285/75R16 BFG AT T/A KO DT PROFAB Adjustable Trac Bar MP PCM Crossdrilled/slotted rotors GM 1-ton brake mod
I just repaired 2 drivers side rollers on the window track on a 98 ram. I read this thread and headed out to home depot. The Self-Closing Bottom Mount was out of stock, so I picked up some shower rollers that came in packs of 2 for under $2. I used a belt sander to turn them down to the right size, removed the ***** the old rollers mounted on by grinding off the backside and installed the new rollers in the holes left behind with the screws provided with the new rollers. I will post pictures later.
Red 2001 dodge ram 5.2 5spd short cab long bed.
12"x2.5" cherry bomb
low speed with extremely light pressure, just barely touch it. a pair of slip joint pliers should hold the roller just fine provided they have the oval opening in the jaws when closed. and make sure your drill bit is sharp.
Airgap. HS 1.7s. 50mm DIY TB. SC 3815. 14x2. 4.10 Yukons. Detroit Truetrac-both axles. Front hitch. Rear hitch lights with skid plates. 4 100w off road lights in brush guard. 2 55w lights in front bumper. Westin brush guard/nerf bars. 33" Treadwrights.
I had this happen to me over a year ago, had to order a new power window regulator off Ebay for about 75 bucks. When my track wheel broke, the window went up and down crooked, and barely closed at the top.
Be careful what you order as the regulators are side specific.