Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Ram > 2nd Gen Ram Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Exhaust Manifold Bolts

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 02-28-2012, 06:17 PM
pcfixerpro pcfixerpro is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Vehicle: 01 Ram 4x4
Posts: 2,568
Default Exhaust Manifold Bolts

Anyone ever found a kit to replace these stock bolts? I tossed the stock bolt hardware when I swapped in headers a few years ago... and the headers might be coming back out.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!

Last edited by pcfixerpro; 02-28-2012 at 06:22 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-28-2012, 06:19 PM
slapshift318 slapshift318 is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Vehicle: 1997 Dodge ram 1500 Laramie 2WD
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 68
Default

If you can find one of them, head to the local hardware store, and match them. that's what i did when i lost the bolts for my exhaust.
__________________
1997 Dodge ram 1500 ext.Cab Laramie 2WD -First in, last out.
Cobra 18 Plus CB - streethawk 4' Lightbar
10' custom steel whip - working on a custom console
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-28-2012, 06:28 PM
pcfixerpro pcfixerpro is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Vehicle: 01 Ram 4x4
Posts: 2,568
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by slapshift318 View Post
If you can find one of them, head to the local hardware store, and match them. that's what i did when i lost the bolts for my exhaust.
Yeah they are long gone. Figured i'd never reuse the hardware due to rust and age, so they ended up at the scrap yard.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-28-2012, 06:30 PM
slapshift318 slapshift318 is offline
Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Vehicle: 1997 Dodge ram 1500 Laramie 2WD
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 68
Default

get a coffee can, that's what i do. well. if i can find my toolset, i will yank one and give you the length and thread width and such. but cant gaurentee.
__________________
1997 Dodge ram 1500 ext.Cab Laramie 2WD -First in, last out.
Cobra 18 Plus CB - streethawk 4' Lightbar
10' custom steel whip - working on a custom console
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-28-2012, 06:32 PM
crazzywolfie's Avatar
crazzywolfie crazzywolfie is offline
Grand Champion
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Vehicle: 91 & 81 d150 carburated 318's 93 R.C. F.I.318
Location: orangeville ontario
Posts: 6,780
Default

a hardware store like home depot should have the bolts you need. that is where i buy most of the bolt i use. i think they even have stainless steel bolts if you want them. if you need studs you might have to order them at an auto parts store or use threaded rod.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-28-2012, 10:41 PM
pcfixerpro pcfixerpro is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Vehicle: 01 Ram 4x4
Posts: 2,568
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by slapshift318 View Post
get a coffee can, that's what i do. well. if i can find my toolset, i will yank one and give you the length and thread width and such. but cant gaurentee.
If you get around to it, that would be pretty cool. If you fear that they may snap, then don't bother. I'm not worth that much :P

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
a hardware store like home depot should have the bolts you need. that is where i buy most of the bolt i use. i think they even have stainless steel bolts if you want them. if you need studs you might have to order them at an auto parts store or use threaded rod.
That doesn't sound like a bad idea at all with the stainless. The stage 8's arn't holding.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 02-28-2012, 11:05 PM
crazzywolfie's Avatar
crazzywolfie crazzywolfie is offline
Grand Champion
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Vehicle: 91 & 81 d150 carburated 318's 93 R.C. F.I.318
Location: orangeville ontario
Posts: 6,780
Default

i bought steel bolts for my manifolds before i discovered home depot sold stainless steel bolts. if you plan on keeping the truck stainless steel bolts might be worth the extra money. i think eventually i would like to get stainless steel bolts so they won't rust up and be a pain to remove. i hate when the heads practically rust off like this.
Click the image to open in full size.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 02-29-2012, 10:55 AM
gnelson49 gnelson49 is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Vehicle: 1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 5.2L 4x4 Manual
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 113
garricknelson@u.boisestate.edu trashygmoney69
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
i bought steel bolts for my manifolds before i discovered home depot sold stainless steel bolts. if you plan on keeping the truck stainless steel bolts might be worth the extra money. i think eventually i would like to get stainless steel bolts so they won't rust up and be a pain to remove. i hate when the heads practically rust off like this.
Click the image to open in full size.
Those are some good lookin bolts!
__________________
1998 Dodge Dakota Sport 5.2L Manual 4x4
CAI
Hughes Plenum
Added Overhead Console
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 02-29-2012, 09:54 PM
aim4squirrels's Avatar
aim4squirrels aim4squirrels is offline
Legend
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Vehicle: 2008 Dodge Challenger SRT8
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 7,844
Default

I believe dorman makes replacement exhaust bolts and the studs. I think they are usually in the Help! Section.

Just pull a header bolt and match up the threads off that. The front ones are usually easily reached.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-01-2012, 10:08 PM
pcfixerpro pcfixerpro is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Vehicle: 01 Ram 4x4
Posts: 2,568
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aim4squirrels View Post
I believe dorman makes replacement exhaust bolts and the studs. I think they are usually in the Help! Section.

Just pull a header bolt and match up the threads off that. The front ones are usually easily reached.

Couldn't find the dorman manifold bolts, only down tube bolts. Exhaust leak got worse today, so I decided to order them through dodge. They will be here Saturday morning.

Last edited by pcfixerpro; 03-01-2012 at 10:15 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-03-2012, 01:49 AM
Josh_Putman's Avatar
Josh_Putman Josh_Putman is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Vehicle: 1999 Dodge 1/2 ton 4x4 Sport
Location: Big Rapids, MI
Posts: 174
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
i bought steel bolts for my manifolds before i discovered home depot sold stainless steel bolts. if you plan on keeping the truck stainless steel bolts might be worth the extra money. i think eventually i would like to get stainless steel bolts so they won't rust up and be a pain to remove. i hate when the heads practically rust off like this.
Click the image to open in full size.
Oh, hell, those are still serviceable!
__________________
1999 Dodge 1/2 ton 4x4 Sport with 318
2003 Grand Caravan Sport with 3.3L
Artificial intelligence will never beat natural stupidity.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VWandDodge View Post
Advising someone to Search as well as Reading the FAQs is all crazy talk!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-03-2012, 03:13 PM
Augiedoggy's Avatar
Augiedoggy Augiedoggy is offline
Champion
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Vehicle: 96 ram ext cab 4x4 that followed me home and drained my bank account
Location: North Tonawanda NY,
Posts: 2,989
Default

Where's the leak? cracked header or just bad gasket?... I recently had one of my pacesetters crack and bought some stainless headers from a seller called "Eworldsales1"... I did a did by side comparison of the pacesetters next to the stainless ones (with pics posted) http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...mparision.html

The stainless ones seem to be better in every way.. all the stuff I heard about bolt clearances and bad welds and having to clearance the flanges for spark plug holes must be from a different headers manufactuer sold on ebay because they are exact replicas as far as bends and design as the pacesetters only better material and better quality welds...flanges are the exact same size and cut identical only thicker and they even come with felpro gaskets and stainless bolts (though I recommend better grade 8 stainless bolts)

I did some deep looking and thier are at least two different types of ebay no name headers.
A great deal for $148 shipped I think...
__________________
5.9, eworld stainless shorties from ebay, magnaflow cat, gibson cat back,180 stat, ebay CAI, 50mm DIY TB, 3" body 2.5" spacers, rear shackle lift, 35" mud tires/ 4.56 gears to match rebuilt LSD, aftermarket lights, inserts, Herculined rockers and bed

Last edited by Augiedoggy; 03-03-2012 at 03:19 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-03-2012, 07:02 PM
Johnny2Bad Johnny2Bad is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Vehicle: 96 RAM 1500 Club Cab; 01 PT Cruiser Limited Edition; 90 Miata w/'95 1.8 swap; 57 FLH
Location: Canada
Posts: 190
Default

Just be careful when subbing SS fasteners for steel ones. It would be best if you could find out the grade of the bolt used in the OEM exhaust. A good photo of the head of the OEM bolt should be enough.

"Hardware Store" SS bolts can be weaker than the steel bolts they replace because many decorative grade SS bolts are not made from an alloy recommended for structural use. So, see if you can determine the grade of the fastener you're buying. Also, generally speaking SS bolts cannot be made as strongly as steel bolts.

Weakest to Strongest:

[For bolts 1/4" to 1"]
Low grade steel; anything below Grade 5, marked 307A, 307B, not marked; ... no yield rating, 60,000 psi tensile [you can freely sub SS for these fasteners]

[all diameters]
SS 300 series 18/8 ... 2 bars on head; ... 30,000 yield 70,000 tensile [Typical Hardware Store variety]
SS Various other grades SS marked: B8, B8M, B8A, B8MA, B8C, B8T; ... 30,000 yield 75,000 tensile
SS Nitronic 60 Solution Treated marked B8S; ... 50,000 yield, 90,000 tensile
SS Nitronic 50 Solution Treated marked B8R; ... 55,000 yield, 110,000 tensile

[1/4 to 4"]
SS 410 Stainless Quenched + Tempered, marked B6; ... 85,000 yield, 110,000 tensile

[1/4 to 1"]
Grade 5 Steel ... 3 bars on head; ... 85,000 yield 120,000 tensile

[1/4 to 1 1/2"]
SS Annealed, Age Hardened, marked F93U; ... 105,000 yield, 135,000 tensile [the strongest SS bolt available]

[1/4 to 1 1/2"]
Grade 8 Steel ... 6 bars on head; ... 120,000 yield, 150,000 tensile

Also, BE SURE to use anti-seize on any SS fastener going into iron, aluminum, mild steels, and it's recommended even if going into another SS part since the composition might be different between the fastener and the item the bolt threads into. Use a torque wrench when tightening SS bolts because over-torquing will cause bolt failure. Also be sure the torque values required for assembly don't exceed the strength of the SS bolt ... you don't want a SS bolt with no head stuck in anything, period.

WE have a place in town that sells only bolts and fasteners (The Bolt Supply House) so getting fasteners is never a problem for me. They have everything you might want, usually in stock, including rare grades and sizes. I find the selection at Home Hardware weak, but that could just be the stores around here.

I used to use SS bolts too for various dress-up engine and vehicle uses, but I've had problems with them. These days if I need appearance I use the steel bolts and paint unless it's a low-strength assembly.

However if you can find B6 SS they are a good fastener for substitution up to grade 5 steel. Those are the bolts I would try to use for headers, with anti-seize. They are not as corrosion-resistant as the 300 (B8) grades, but they clean up well enough. Use a torque wrench and don't torque to final value (get close, maybe 85%) until after you've run the engine a while, then re-torque to final. SS bolts don't stretch like steel does.

A good alternative method of attaching headers that have heat/cooling cycles that tend to loosen bolts is to use an extra-long bolt with a good quality nut. Tighten the bolt down until it's firmly seated in the head, then tighten the nut to bring the header itself tight. It is not necessary to torque the bolt fully with this method. You then will be able to tighten the header at any time by holding the bolt head with a wrench and tightening the nut alone.

This stretches the part of the bolt between the header and the head, giving some elastic strength that helps handle the heat cycling, yet doesn't require torquing the bolt very hard. It works very well with soft threaded heads, like aluminum. By backing off the nut slightly you will almost always be able to then back off the head and remove the bolt. If it does break, there is often enough meat there to make removal easier, although it's rare to break a bolt this way.

In aircraft they often use two nuts, one thinner called a "jam nut". This second jam nut is tightened once the first nut is fully seated, acting as a very high strength lock washer. You have to loosen the jam nut first, then the holding nut, to remove the bolt. It works well in high vibration assemblies, or when frequent removal is necessary.

Last edited by Johnny2Bad; 03-03-2012 at 08:36 PM..
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 03-03-2012, 07:56 PM
crazzywolfie's Avatar
crazzywolfie crazzywolfie is offline
Grand Champion
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Vehicle: 91 & 81 d150 carburated 318's 93 R.C. F.I.318
Location: orangeville ontario
Posts: 6,780
Default

i don't mind bolts that are decorative. my manifolds fit my 318 so perfect that i don't even have a gasket installed. just need something to hold the manifolds.

i think home depot has a bit better selection of bolts than home hardware. my local home hardware does not carry SS fastener but they do have a very good selection of key. there is also a brafasco but there is a minimum $10 limit.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 03-03-2012, 08:41 PM
Johnny2Bad Johnny2Bad is offline
Professional
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Vehicle: 96 RAM 1500 Club Cab; 01 PT Cruiser Limited Edition; 90 Miata w/'95 1.8 swap; 57 FLH
Location: Canada
Posts: 190
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazzywolfie View Post
i don't mind bolts that are decorative. my manifolds fit my 318 so perfect that i don't even have a gasket installed. just need something to hold the manifolds.

i think home depot has a bit better selection of bolts than home hardware. my local home hardware does not carry SS fastener but they do have a very good selection of key. there is also a brafasco but there is a minimum $10 limit.
Yeah, sorry, meant Home Depot. Bolt Supply has a $5 minimum, but I've never actually had them enforce it. Maybe just lucky.

Good tips for installing SS fasteners here:
http://www.estainlesssteel.com/gallingofstainless.html

Looks like the exhaust bolts are 5/16-18 all you need is correct length. Headers mount with 1". From the picture a guess would be 2" with a 1" shoulder but you should find out the exact dimensions.

Last edited by Johnny2Bad; 03-04-2012 at 04:45 AM..
Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2012, 08:41 PM
 
 
 
Reply




Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:34 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails