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Misfiring, Shuddering, No Power, Code 300

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  #1  
Old 04-16-2012, 05:38 PM
IronAge IronAge is offline
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Default Success! - Misfiring, Shuddering, No Power, Code 300

2001 RAM Sport 5.9L.

About 9 weeks ago, I put in a new CKS, CPS, distributor cap, rotor, plugs and cables.

As of Tuesday morning (last week), the truck was running fine.

That afternoon, I ran an errand and pushed it pretty hard (lots of sharp curves and hills) and it ran fine.

That evening, was going up a hill and it shuddered really hard three times - like WHAM, WHAM, WHAM.

No more trouble that day, buy shook really bad going up a hill the next day. By Friday, it would barely make it up a hill and top speed was about 45. Any faster and and the engine would start shaking really bad.

Friday evening, the CEL came on with codes 300, 304, and 306. (Misfires on cylinders 4 and 6.)

I pulled the forward O2 sensor to verify that it is not a clogged cat.

Fuel pressure is good.

The only other clues are:

1. If you try to rev it up a little, you will get the sulphur smell of excess gas hitting the cat.

2. I was never happy with the way the replacement distributor cap (or rotor) fit. It felt like it was too short or the rotor was too tall. That is probably a red herring as it has been running fine with it. I ordered another new one and will swap it out just because.

Ideas?
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Last edited by IronAge; 04-18-2012 at 10:34 PM.. Reason: Success!
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2012, 05:48 PM
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Sorry, but. Pulling the o2 does not mean the cat is not clogged. And if you have a problem with the way the distributor cap was installed, I'd check that out too.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:58 PM
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Let me phrase it this way: Other than the slight volume increase, the symptoms were not lessened at all by pulling the sensor.

The distributor cap is a long shot. My guess is that if it was going to be an issue, it wouldn't have waited 8 weeks to do it. The new cap and rotor will not be here until Wednesday. I will swap them then and see if anything looks weird inside the cap.

I am also thinking about replacing the the forward O2 sensor and the MAP sensor. I kind of hate to just start throwing parts at it though.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:48 PM
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Nah, don't just throw parts at it..... waste of money. Have a look at the plugs for 4 and 6, also check your plug wire routing. (TSB for that in faq section.)
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:52 PM
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If the plugs are ok and the wires are properly routed, I'd check the fuel pressure, and the injectors on bad cylinders.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:21 PM
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I will check out all your ideas.

Something to keep in mind though:

Fuel pressure is good. I tested it with a gauge Friday evening. It did bleed down pretty quick, but that is because the connection from the hose to the gauge leaks pretty bad.

I believe I have the wires routed correctly.

I could definitely support the idea that an injector or two are stuck open (based on the sulphur smell).

My other thought was that either the MAP or the O2 sensor might be causing it to run extremely rich.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:25 PM
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I forgot to mention: I also replaced the coil when I replaced the plug, wires, cap, and rotor.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:42 PM
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If the O2 is bad, meaning it's giving wacky readings, the PCM will more or less just ignore it and run a preset amount of gas all the time so it doesn't do stuff like you're getting.

I'm betting injector.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:23 PM
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I pulled plug #4 (one of the misfiring cylinders). Photo attached. It smelled like fresh gas. I also pulled plug #1 for comparison. It smelled like exhaust.

What are the odds of two injectors going bad at the same time?

This truck has been running great, 500 miles a week for 8 weeks.
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File Type: jpg plug_4.jpg (45.9 KB, 9 views)
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:00 PM
jswain jswain is offline
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I'd check and make sure cylinder 4 and 6 plugs are firing. If not, go from there. Might be a problem with some of the replacement ignition parts (cap, wires, or plugs). Check to make sure wires are still seated properly, etc. Maybe clear the misfire codes, swap a couple of plug wires, and see if the misfire codes move.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:25 PM
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All the injectors live in the same environment, so, two or more going bad at about the same time isn't too much of a stretch..... If you suspect the injectors, swap 'em with known good cylinders, and see if the miss moves with the injectors, or stays in the same cylinders.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:33 PM
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it's also not a stretch that there are debris in your lines or your rails that are letting loose and clogging the valves. it doesn't take much.. if you pull the injectors on those two cylinders, get a good close look at the baskets.. you can also buy one of those inexpensive ultrasound jewelry cleaners, put some gas in the bowl, and drop in the injectors.. see what shakes out of them..
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:26 PM
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You said you changed out the cps?

Think it was installed a bit meagerly that it got knocked loose?
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle View Post
You said you changed out the cps?

Think it was installed a bit meagerly that it got knocked loose?


I like this idea best so far.

The new cap never felt like it fit right. It felt like it was excessively high-centered on the rotor. In fact, I had to partially loosen one side just to get screw on the other side to get a grip. (I did tighten both sides after that though.)

Now, when you stick your fingernail under the bottom edge of the cap, it feels like it doesn't quite touch the distributor (but it could be my imagination).

If the cap doesn't seat perfectly, the cps could definitely have popped out of position a little.

The new cap and rotor will be here tomorrow. If that doesn't fix it, I am about ready to go shopping for a new truck.
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:14 PM
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make sure the cap is on stright some times its not on were it should be
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  #16  
Old 04-18-2012, 10:33 PM
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Default Success!

As I suspected, either the rotor or the cap was the wrong part or defective.

This one of the many reasons that I no longer buy from O'Reilly.

Check out these pictures. Click the thumbnails for the big versions:







Last edited by IronAge; 04-18-2012 at 10:43 PM..
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:41 PM
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I've always had great success buying from O'Reillys. They always have what Advance doesn't.

They also sell single taps, very useful that right there
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Old 04-18-2012, 10:58 PM
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I have had a number of issues with the local O'Reilly's. Almost everybody here locally despises the one in our town.

If the staff aren't too busy talking to their girlfriends, they might notice you are standing at the counter. Then they will argue with you about the parts you need.

When I bought this cap and rotor back two months ago, as soon as I got them home and took the rotor out of the box I realized it was the wrong part. It didn't look anything like the original rotor. I test fit it on the shaft anyway just for kicks. No way it was going on there.

I checked the part number on the box. It was supposed to be a Borg Warner D223P and the number was right. I took it back to the store to exchange it. That was their last D223P, but they had a D223 (no P). That rotor fit the shaft fine, but getting the cap on was a real pain as it seemed like the rotor was to o tall or the cap was too short.

So, either the cap or the rotor was still the wrong part in the right box.

(This could have happened at BWD instead of O'Reilly.)
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:40 AM
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I would carry it back too them and ask for an exchange....and if they won't do it, I'd never darken their door!
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:47 PM
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I'm going to say the rotor was not pushed on all the way, or the cps was not lined up correctly. Which is why the OP said the cap didn't seem right. Which is no fault of the parts store.
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Old 04-19-2012, 04:47 PM
 
 
 
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