[Request] Plan front axle and steering components
#1
[Request] Plan front axle and steering components
The last few days I have been searching on this very active forum for similar experiences/plans of action/tips/part choices/tools/etc. going back 6 months. Most likely I still have not looked far enough, but I did find some great threads.
I'm the 2nd owner of this truck, currently 122K and got it with 50K on it. Most of the time in Colorado and used 4x4 for the snow and light offroading. Here in NorCal also some snow usage the last couple of years. Intend to do light to moderate offroading. I'm the owner that has rarely done anything to it maintenance-wise. Worse fix so far is water pump replacement (bearing seized) and rear differential clutch plates obliterated (replaced with new kit). So things now are starting to mount up from the poor RLC (rugged loving care) on my part and I desire to be more proactive as this is my DD and I love this truck. Thanks to this site for aprising me of generic issues (i.e,. plenum).
Front Axle
With that being said as background, my current plan is to replace the u joints (notorious clicking the last couple months) and axle seals. Ball joints are fine as verified by checking for movement by myself and 2 shops. Even the local Dodge Dealership said they were fine, no play. I have already read about recommended ujoint brands (i.e., spicer) and axle seals.
ujoint choices: EastCoastGearSupply, 4wheelers
(would love to be pointed to any stores in Sacramento, CA area that I could walk into for these)
DIY source
95RAM360s DIY thread
Helpful threads I've found amongst many
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...int-issue.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-u-joints.html
Would it be a good idea to replace the hubs as well? I've read mixed things from past people. Part me just says....do it, but I'd like a more informed level of input.
What other items need vs should vs want be considered for this ujoint/seal/hub activity?
Steering Components
Referring to track bar, drag link, tie rods, pitman arm, sway bar. Nothing loose identified on these components at this time. This was checked while on a lift. No maintenance has ever been done on this.
Visual findings:
The driver side tie rod joint boot cracked at this point.
Track bar joint on frame side leaked/ing.
What would be a recommendation on replacement (whole/part) of anything here? Two options in my mind are:
1) Replace only the ball joints.
2) Replace everything from pitman arm down. (e.g, topguncustomz)
Here are some pics to help tell the story whether I have anything to be concerned about or not.
Direct links so as not to stretch the forum.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1595.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1596.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1597.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1598.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1599.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1600.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1612.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1613.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1614.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1615.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1619.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1620.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1621.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1622.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1623.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1624.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1625.jpg
Thanks in advance for the input on this. Feel free to link to my anything else.
I'm the 2nd owner of this truck, currently 122K and got it with 50K on it. Most of the time in Colorado and used 4x4 for the snow and light offroading. Here in NorCal also some snow usage the last couple of years. Intend to do light to moderate offroading. I'm the owner that has rarely done anything to it maintenance-wise. Worse fix so far is water pump replacement (bearing seized) and rear differential clutch plates obliterated (replaced with new kit). So things now are starting to mount up from the poor RLC (rugged loving care) on my part and I desire to be more proactive as this is my DD and I love this truck. Thanks to this site for aprising me of generic issues (i.e,. plenum).
Front Axle
With that being said as background, my current plan is to replace the u joints (notorious clicking the last couple months) and axle seals. Ball joints are fine as verified by checking for movement by myself and 2 shops. Even the local Dodge Dealership said they were fine, no play. I have already read about recommended ujoint brands (i.e., spicer) and axle seals.
ujoint choices: EastCoastGearSupply, 4wheelers
(would love to be pointed to any stores in Sacramento, CA area that I could walk into for these)
DIY source
95RAM360s DIY thread
Helpful threads I've found amongst many
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...int-issue.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-u-joints.html
Would it be a good idea to replace the hubs as well? I've read mixed things from past people. Part me just says....do it, but I'd like a more informed level of input.
What other items need vs should vs want be considered for this ujoint/seal/hub activity?
Steering Components
Referring to track bar, drag link, tie rods, pitman arm, sway bar. Nothing loose identified on these components at this time. This was checked while on a lift. No maintenance has ever been done on this.
Visual findings:
The driver side tie rod joint boot cracked at this point.
Track bar joint on frame side leaked/ing.
What would be a recommendation on replacement (whole/part) of anything here? Two options in my mind are:
1) Replace only the ball joints.
2) Replace everything from pitman arm down. (e.g, topguncustomz)
Here are some pics to help tell the story whether I have anything to be concerned about or not.
Direct links so as not to stretch the forum.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1595.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1596.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1597.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1598.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1599.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1600.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1612.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1613.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1614.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1615.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1619.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1620.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1621.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1622.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1623.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1624.jpg
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSCF1625.jpg
Thanks in advance for the input on this. Feel free to link to my anything else.
Last edited by Wh1t3NuKle; 09-14-2011 at 04:22 PM. Reason: added 95RAM360 DIY thread
#2
Grab a friend, again... and thoroughly inspect the front suspension. If it moves, and it shouldn't, add it to the list, if it moves WHERE it shouldn't, add it to the list, if it doesn't move, and it should, add it to the list. Anything that is even considering being sloppy, should be replaced. If you have one balljoint that is questionable, replace them ALL.
That said, if you are going to be doing axle seals, you are going to have everything apart anyway, and you might just as well put in some good quality b-joints too. (xrf brand seems to be the best recommended ones at this point.)
If you do the shotgun approach, (replacing EVERYTHING) that's is not going to be an inexpensive endeavor. remember, these are steering parts, you get what you pay for. Not an area to go cheap on.
That said, if you are going to be doing axle seals, you are going to have everything apart anyway, and you might just as well put in some good quality b-joints too. (xrf brand seems to be the best recommended ones at this point.)
If you do the shotgun approach, (replacing EVERYTHING) that's is not going to be an inexpensive endeavor. remember, these are steering parts, you get what you pay for. Not an area to go cheap on.
#3
Since it was already inspected by several shops resulting in nothing significantly sloppy, and considering your input, it would seem apt to just replace tie rod ball joints.
Regarding the ball joints, even with no slop at all in them, I mean none as this was tested with putting a pry bar and not getting any play, to still go ahead and change them out? Just wanting to be sure from your PoV is all.
Thanks for the feedback!
Regarding the ball joints, even with no slop at all in them, I mean none as this was tested with putting a pry bar and not getting any play, to still go ahead and change them out? Just wanting to be sure from your PoV is all.
Thanks for the feedback!
#4
#5
Thanks for the looksie. All I could tell from yours was that it was all gooped up. (third from last picture)
I've seen that quad4x4.com site is mentioned around here in positive light.
Any feedback on the following?
Ujoints
Ball Joints QK4596
Axle Seals
I have no idea how to select the appropriate seals here though. There are just total of 2 seals, Left and Right, correct? Help appreciated.
For example are all the XXXXXX Inner Axle Seal kits all that is needed? (That's my impression)
I've seen that quad4x4.com site is mentioned around here in positive light.
Any feedback on the following?
Ujoints
TK40712 Torque King® Premium Quality, Non-Greaseable, Axle Shaft Universal Joint for most domestic 4x4 vehicles under 8500 pound Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) with solid beam and Twin Traction Beam™ front drive axles. A premium, original equipment type, factory lubed universal joint for your heavy-duty 4x4 equipped with an open-knuckle GM 10 Bolt, Dana 30, Dana-Spicer Super 30, Dana 44 solid beam or Dana-Spicer Model 35IFS and 44IFS, Twin Traction Beam™ front drive axles. Made for us by Spicer, this is our best selling u-joint for this application because it combines the strength of a solid, cold-forged cross with excellent seals and a maintenance free, factory-lubed design that meets or exceeds all original equipment specifications. Cup Diameter is 1-3/8". Assembled in U.S.A. of domestic and imported components. For alternative u-joints for this application, see QU40754. For U-Joint Service Tools, See our 4x4 Tools U-Joint Tooling Web Page.
Ball Joints QK4596
QK4596 Ball Joint Kit for 2000-2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4's fits 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 and 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 trucks. Kit includes: (2) Upper and (2) Lower genuine original equipment replacement Ball Joints with hardware, Cotter Keys for aftermarket tie rod ends, axle shift unit Gasket, vent Hose Clamp, Threadlocker, Anti-Seize, RTV Sealant, and Synthetic Brake Caliper Lube.
$152.97 or Save 3.25% by purchasing Online for only $147.97
$152.97 or Save 3.25% by purchasing Online for only $147.97
Axle Seals
I have no idea how to select the appropriate seals here though. There are just total of 2 seals, Left and Right, correct? Help appreciated.
For example are all the XXXXXX Inner Axle Seal kits all that is needed? (That's my impression)
#7
Since it was already inspected by several shops resulting in nothing significantly sloppy, and considering your input, it would seem apt to just replace tie rod ball joints.
Regarding the ball joints, even with no slop at all in them, I mean none as this was tested with putting a pry bar and not getting any play, to still go ahead and change them out? Just wanting to be sure from your PoV is all.
Thanks for the feedback!
Regarding the ball joints, even with no slop at all in them, I mean none as this was tested with putting a pry bar and not getting any play, to still go ahead and change them out? Just wanting to be sure from your PoV is all.
Thanks for the feedback!
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#8
And if you are going to order parts from Quad4x4, call Dan and get the right ones.
#9
Had an inspection done by a shop. This time I was able to be present rather than dropping off from work and insisted on being shown what issues came to light. The findings were only: driver side ujoint and trackbar. So I was right about the ujoint. Good thing is axle seals are fine as leaking was from the ujoint.
So I found Spicer Ujoints in my area and picking up this morning. Found a BD Track Bar online and got it for $380!! (XDP Diesel Power)
So my plan as of now is replacing BOTH front ujoints and Track Bar. Its been suggested by my gear BIL to do the wheel hubs....but geez how would you be able to assess them for needed replacement?
#10