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95 Dodge Ram 360 magnum rough idle/ sputter problems

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  #21  
Old 02-26-2013, 03:17 PM
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Did the org owner have the dizzy out of the motor? If yes the fuel sync needs to be reset at the dealer.
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:36 PM
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explain "dizzy"
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:39 PM
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NM, i'm not sure.. ill have to ask
 
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Old 02-26-2013, 03:42 PM
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Distributor not just the cap but the whole thing, if he had it out the fuel sync will be out and needs to be reset.

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Old 02-26-2013, 04:16 PM
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ok from what i'm getting the guy before me the guy pulled the distributor etc because it was zipped tied together (the cap) ..ugh.. he said he timed it but said you can't time it with a light.. i see markings on the manifold etc where it looks like they marked and lined up... so maybe i might try loosening the bolt and try and move the distributor around..ugh

anyone in dayton wanting to buy a 95 ram 2500 ????
 
  #26  
Old 02-26-2013, 04:19 PM
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Well that's whats wrong with it, simple ez fix, If you have a dvm just follow that diy sheet it will get you close. If you can't read it let me know.
 
  #27  
Old 02-26-2013, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by sweeper2
ok, so the O2 sensor being unplugged didn't work.. drove it 30 miles into work and stalled twice after sitting in drive and trying to take off.. when the engine is cold.. runs fine, once it warms up... gets erratic idle in park and in drive, i try to take off and it sputters and i can hear it crap out (air threw the air cleaner). If i hold my foot on the gas at about 1000 rpm and hold the brake in drive, i can take off better.. once it craps out and dies.. i have to put it in neutral, hold the pedal to the floor, crank it until it starts up and clears itself out , will idle fine for about 10 sec then start to idle erratic again... I ran new high octane gas in it and put a can of seafoam in the gas tank to see if that would help yesterday. I am hoping i didn't buy a lemon... could it be bad fuel injectors ?? sensor ?? sounds like it's flooding itself out...

and by the way the 02 sensor put up the check engine light which i never had before.
Originally Posted by sweeper2
yeah, i need to figure something out.. it's getting annoying.. odd how when it's cold it will run fine... but when it warms up it starts acting crazy.. do you adjust timing on these like the older trucks/cars by the distributor ? turning counterclockwise or clockwise ? like I said, the previous owner did something with the distributor and he said he had it in time but thought it might be to far retarded
..
Originally Posted by sweeper2
has anyone heard of the distributor being the problem. I was told there was a gear at the bottom of the distributor that can jump and be a problem and may have to be replaced ? Im taking it's not the one on the distributor but down in the engine
Originally Posted by merc225hp
Well that's whats wrong with it, simple ez fix, If you have a dvm just follow that diy sheet it will get you close. If you can't read it let me know.

Let's back up a little bit.

When it wsa stated to disconnect O2 sensor, I think it went off track. Remove the O2 sensor (upstream) from exhaust. Leave the hole open. Now drive it and see if it is any better. What this does is allows exhaust to escape if in the event the cat is plugged up. A plugged or pluggin cat will get worse with heat, and can cause backfiring.

Do not turn distributor to set timeing. The PCM adjusts as needed. It porbably does need to have fule sync reset as stated above. Just get as close as you can if necessary as Merc stated.

Probably need to replace O2 sensor as well, but do NOT use a Bosch. Denso is good.

If cat is clogging, this is an indiaction that the plenum gasket is blown. To check for this, dsiconnect battery ground. Remove the Throttle Body and look down inside intake with a light and small mirror. See if there is oil pooling in the back corner.

Let us know what you find.
 
  #28  
Old 02-26-2013, 06:58 PM
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ok.. so this is where i ended up.. i took the wires off after talking with the previous owner... after looking at a diagram of the cap and wires for each side and the firing order.. i redid the wires to where they were (suppose) to be.. well.. it started then died.. started then died.. so, i moved each wire 1 slot over on the cap.. it started and stayed running and even allowed me to rev it high but had a miss fire and didn't sound to good.. so, i moved the wires 1 slot over again.. (clockwise).. it started right up.. idles fine but still, if you floor it or try and get on it it bogs down.. i tried to get the distributer close as possible... but this is where i am at now.. (plus doing this in the rain and as it gets dark)... since my works bay was blocked.... I will try and remove the o2 sensor .. hopefully it doesn't break.. looks pretty rusty.. might be a day or to before i can try it. but as of now it runs and idles fine.. but just has the (no get up and go unless you feather the gas for a sec or to)
 
  #29  
Old 02-26-2013, 07:18 PM
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There is a TSB on routing the plug wires. Look in FAQ/DIY section for the TSB.
 
  #30  
Old 02-26-2013, 08:29 PM
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didn't know you had to be so specific on routing wires.. ??? wow.. that would cause it to bog when you hit it hard on the gas ? right now the truck idles fine in park and drive.. unlike before.. looking at the pattern on the distributor and the locking tabs, i believe i have all the wires set correctly and the distributor set correctly. So i got rid of the bad idle and miss.. but am left with just a bog when heavy on the gas.. I guess the next move is to remove the 02 sensor and see how it runs.. what about the TPS ? any other reasons besides maybe the Cat or pre cat 02 sensor ?
 


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