Go Back   DodgeForum.com > Dodge Trucks > Dodge Ram > 2nd Gen Ram Tech
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Power Steering Pump Install

Reply
 
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 04-14-2013, 12:00 AM
dhvaughan's Avatar
dhvaughan dhvaughan is offline
Hall Of Fame
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Vehicle: 01 1500 4wd
Location: Gainesville, Ga.
Posts: 12,192
Default Power Steering Pump Install

at 185k miles, the power steering pump is whining and i'm tired of listening to it.

Pump - Cardone 20-7953F from Advance. $42.09 with lifetime warranty.
Fluid - 1 gallon Valvoline from Advance. $13.59. I used about 3 quarts to flush and fill.
PS Pulley Removal Tool - I rented/borrowed from Advance.
PS Pulley Install Tool - I did not rent an install tool, but just used a 5/16 bolt and washers to drive it on and a strap wrench to hold the pulley.
Filter - Fenco 2210 from Autozone. $10. Advance doesn't carry that filter.
Clamps - two 3/4". the ones in the Fenco kit are too small for our hoses.
Shop towels.
Mild Brake cleaner. I like Advance's. Walmart's is too strong and burns your skin.


tools:
ps pulley removal tool (rent/loan)
wrenches - 9/16, 15mm, 18mm.
sockets - 9/16 deep, 15mm, 19mm for puller, 4mm allen-head for puller
1/4 inch socket or nut driver for filter clamps
knife or heavy scissors to cut the return hose
funnel.
for flushing - small bucket, 3/4 inch heater hose about 2 feet long
jack
home-made pulley install tool- 5/16" bolt about 2 to 2-1/2 inches long and two inches of washers as spacers.
strap wrench.


note the o-ring attached to the new ps pump. don't lose it.


1. unhook serpentine belt and move it out of the way. 15mm wrench.
2. remove the plastic caps from the new pump, to use to plug the lines on the old pump. keep new pump in plastic bag to keep clean.
3. remove old fluid from old PS pump, lines, steering gear by flushing. jack up the front tires off the ground. disconnect return hose from pump pipe. flatten the tab on the squeeze clamp so it'll compress all the way. i used a small flat screwdriver to gently separate the hose from the return pipe, and a few squirts of silicon spray or wd40. plug the return pipe quickly. point the return hose down and into a piece of 3/4 inch heater hose and into a bucket. do NOT start the engine. turn key to unlock the steering. with engine off - turn steering wheel lock to lock several times. it'll dump all the fluid out the return hose. leave the return hose in the bucket for futher flushing later.
4. remove pressure line from underneath. 18mm wrench. plug the hole quickly.
5. remove nut from the stud on the top of the the ps bracket. it has 2 ground wires under it. 9/16 wrench. 14mm was too small. move the 2 wires up out of the way. the water pump pipe blocks access by socket and forces you to use a wrench on this.
6. remove the stud (w/wrench) and the other 3 9/16 ps bracket bolts. note 2 are long and 2 are short.
7. remove the ps bracket with pump and pulley still attached and take it to the workbench.
8. turn the old pump upside down and dump any remaining fluid.

*** note the position of the pulley on the shaft. end of pulley is flush with end of shaft. also note the distance from the inside edge of the pulley to the ps bracket. its very close, about 3/16 inch or less.

9. setup the puller on the pulley. i had to finagle/tighten one side bolt or the other to center the bolt over the shaft. do use the little bolts to lock the puller arms around the puller.
10. i put the puller in the vise to hold it still. tighten puller screw to remove pulley. mine was 19mm. keep one hand on the ps pump, as it will fall away from the puller when it comes off.
11. remove pump from bracket. 4 15mm bolts. note that the one in the 5 o'clock position is short.
12. move the 2 rear mounting studs from the old pump to the new. 18mm. these studs are not used for mounting, but Cardone says to install them or else the reservoir will leak.

*** you're done with the old pump. move the plugs from the old pump to the new pump to keep it clean. also move the fill cap from the old to the new. dump the fluid again from the old pump and put it in a bag.

13. mount the new pump on the bracket. short bolt in 5 o'clock position. i used a dap of blue locktite on each bolt.
14. setup your pulley install. i used 2 standard 5/16 inch bolts. a longer (2-3 inch) to start, and a shorter 1-1/4 to finish. also a stack of 5/16 washers. DONT use a big washer directly on the pulley (larger than the shaft), or you risk over-pressing it. a 5/16 washer will take it flush to the end of the shaft. hold the pulley with a strap wrench. i pressed it on in about 4 steps. be sure you catch about 3-4 rounds of threads before you start pressing, then you get about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of press before the bolt bottoms out in the shaft hole. repeat until the pulley is flush with the end of the shaft. be patient, it will slide on ever so slowly. do NOT use an impact wrench, hammer, press, etc.
15. install bracket and pump to engine. stud in top left.
16. install the 2 ground wires on the stud. if you forget this, you'll get a "no bus" in odometer.
17. install serpentine belt.
18. pressure line - locate the o-ring on the old hard line at the end. remove it and install the NEW small o-ring.
19. install the pressure line. 18mm.


if you are not going to install a filter, then plug the return pipe (so fluid doesn't run out) and don't cut the return hose, and point it into the bucket for the flush. go to step 21.


20. if you are going to install the filter -
a. locate the IN side and mark it with a marker.
b. decide where you want it.
c. cut the return hose to fit.
d. install the last segment of return line onto the pump return pipe with the original clamp.
e. install the filter - "out" side to the pump. you need 3/4" clamps.
f. plug the "in" side of the filter with a cap.

*** do not attach the return line to the filter (not yet)
*** you need to flush the steering gear and lines first.


21. to flush - jack up the front tires off the ground. point the return line down and into a piece of 3/4 inch heater hose and place it into a bucket.
do NOT start the engine. turn key to unlock the steering.

fill the new ps pump reservoir with new fluid. it doesn't hold much. with engine off - turn steering wheel lock to lock a couple of times. it'll dump the fluid out the return hose.
refill and repeat about 5-10 times until the fluid runs out clean. i flushed about 2-3 quarts before it came out clean. dump the bucket towards the end so you can see that its clean.

22. when you're done with the flush,
attach the return line to the filter (IN) with clamp.
zip tie the filter down so it doesn't flop or rattle.
top off the pump reservoir.

23. clean up with towels and mild brake cleaner.

24. front tires still up in the air, crank the truck and let it run for about 15 seconds and check for leaks. shut off. top off reservoir. (don't let it go dry). crank truck and turn the wheel lock to lock. shut off. top off reservoir. crank truck and turn the wheel lock to lock several times to eliminate any air. shut off. top off reservoir. lower truck. drive it.







Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.



Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.



Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
__________________
01 1500 Reg Cab 4wd 5.2 auto 3.55 285/75/16 steps tow hooks sc3815 180 3923 trans cooler filter posilok powertrax (removed) timbren britebox pioneer head rockford amp speaker cobra cb firestick hughes plenum water pump timing chain oil pump rear main hub bearings brakes shocks cracked dash cad bushings seals ujoints trackbar tcase Robert Griffin Trans

Last edited by dhvaughan; 04-14-2013 at 09:59 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-14-2013, 08:08 AM
guzman's Avatar
guzman guzman is offline
Professional
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Vehicle: 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9 gas
Location: Kansas
Posts: 218
Default Diy

Great job on the DIY and nice clear pictures as well.
__________________
1996 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, Volant CAI, Magnaflow Cat with free flowing single exhaust, 8mm plug wires, HP coil, Mopar performance computer, H&S 1.7 rockers, TCP performance aluminum shroud with Derale controller, FF Dynamics fans, Bosch 4 hole injectors, Hi-Potek 50mm TB, Modded kegger, External Tranny Oil filter, Double roller timing chain.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-14-2013, 09:26 AM
HeyYou's Avatar
HeyYou HeyYou is offline
Section Moderator
Dodge Forum Moderator
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Vehicle: 1996 Dodge Ram 2500
Location: Adrian, MI
Posts: 31,269
Default

How much flow did you get out of the return line when you were flushing? Was it difficult to keep the reservoir full?
__________________
1996 Ram 2500 5.9 EC/SB Gas, Auto, 4x4, Hughes plenum plate, Kegger mod, double roller timing set, rest is stock. For now.....
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-14-2013, 09:39 AM
dhvaughan's Avatar
dhvaughan dhvaughan is offline
Hall Of Fame
Garage is empty, add now
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Vehicle: 01 1500 4wd
Location: Gainesville, Ga.
Posts: 12,192
Default

****note that engine was OFF for flush. otherwise, it will pump out faster than you can replenish it and you'll run the pump dry. (i did that on my old chevy)

with return hose in the bucket, a full reservoir would empty itself in 2 or 3 lock to lock cycles. you don't have to worry about all the air bubble and gurgling sounds that it makes. it will self purge the air out later when you put it back together. the dirty crap that comes out of the steering box is ugly.

an alternative is to remove the fuel pump relay and cycle the starter for a few seconds. i tried this but didn't get enough flow to suit me and didn't like spinning the starter that long.

the return hose came out of the bucket during one cycle, and it dumped about 1/2 quart of oil on the floor in a flash. oops.
__________________
01 1500 Reg Cab 4wd 5.2 auto 3.55 285/75/16 steps tow hooks sc3815 180 3923 trans cooler filter posilok powertrax (removed) timbren britebox pioneer head rockford amp speaker cobra cb firestick hughes plenum water pump timing chain oil pump rear main hub bearings brakes shocks cracked dash cad bushings seals ujoints trackbar tcase Robert Griffin Trans
Reply With Quote
Old 04-14-2013, 09:39 AM
 
 
 
Reply




Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump

Join DodgeForum
Advertising

Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory
Our Sponsors
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:43 PM.

Internet Brands, Inc.


Contact Details & Emails

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2