2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
If you do alot of mudding dont get them, mud gets in the slots and reduces your braking. But if your like me that only hauls a dirt bike and some quads you should be fine. Plan on getting sime slotted rotors when my brakes need dine
You might want to look into WHY your rotors are warping. There is likely a reason behind it and you haven't mentioned whether or not you've attempted to fix the problem.
Have you also made sure your rear drums are adjusted properly and not sticking? I've seen on here folks with the same problem and the drums doing their part actually fixed the problem.
Back in the good ol' days..... when brake pads were made of asbestos, and various other "hazardous" materials, when the pads got hot, (when you stepped on the brakes hard, or frequently....) they would 'out-gas', and you would lose breaking effectiveness. With todays pad materials, that is pretty much a non-issue for street-driven vehicles. (especially trucks....) The idea behind the slots, or cross-drilled rotors, was to give those gases a place to go, rather than between the pad, and rotor.... making brakes work better. Not really necessary today.
If your rotors are constantly warping, need to find out WHY. If they have been turned down below spec, they won't be very tolerant to heating..... if you have calipers sticking, that will warm them right up too.... rear brakes being out of adjustment will force the fronts to do more of the work, and that heats them up as well.
I have. Looked into this sooo much.. It's crazy...I have changed out the back new drums then turned them and new shoes and front as well even new calipers. But they continue to warp I say within a yrs time. I'm just thinking that this truck hard on them. But it seems when are you leaving? I first got this truck I did have any issue at all with them, until that first change over....I even went to ceramic instead of the semi metallic. I have posted this on this forum before and still I haven't figured it out. But I won't be getting the slotted ones just the solid ones. As far as the rotors I one got ones from napa, but started out with autozone.
When you say they are warped- how much? Are just assuming they are warped from a pulsating pedal?
I have a feeling they are not warped, but that you need to properly bed you pads when you install them. Believe it or not rotors rarely warp.
That varies dramatically from person to person, and vehicle to vehicle. There are just way to many variables to make a blanket statement like that..... Even NEW rotors can be warped..... And all it takes is getting them too hot once, and you get a pulsation.
Warped is a measurable defect, you can measure it with an indicator. A pulsation in the pedal does not mean the rotors are warped. Most times the pulsating is coming from not properly bedding the pads when they were new.
Of course I am new here and don't expect you to believe me, but I assure you I wouldn't come in here and lie to you.
And still, rotors rarely warp...we just fail to diagnose it properly.
He stated his are new....not thin...different case.
The thing that stands out here is he said it was fine until he did a brake job. Then he says he keeps changing parts, and recreating the same fault. I am willing to bet he is not bedding the pads properly.
Last edited by Boatdaddy; 07-30-2013 at 11:41 PM..
My experience is somewhat different. I would routinely put NEW rotors on the lathe, as they were invariably a couple thousandths out even right out of the box. I only want to do the job once, not have a customer return with a pulsation a day later... We would rarely, if ever... go thru the bedding procedure on customer cars either. Unless it was something that was designed to be driven hard. (or, if it was a high-dollar value car, instruct the customer on how to do so.)
90% of folks that do their brakes in their driveway don't do the bedding procedure either..... I have also found, that 99% of the vehicles we got in for a pedal pulsation, turning the rotors and/or drums, would solve the issue. If the pads/shoes were marginal, those would get replaced as well. (probably 30% of the jobs.)
If he is throwing new rotors at it, and STILL has a pulsation, or, it comes back after some time span..... there is indeed something awry there. Just need to find out what.
By turning the rotors you are removing the pad material from the rotor surface that has been transferred from the pad because they were not bedded. A few thou won't cause a pulsation.
I build race cars for factory race teams and supercars for the driving enthusiast. A few thousandths is actually quite good for a factory piece. Some of the high dollar pieces we see come in have more run-out than that and the braking is smooth.