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2nd Gen Ram Tech 1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Is there supposed to be a washer in here...

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Old 08-02-2013, 11:36 PM
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Default Is there supposed to be a washer in here...

1999 Dodge Ram 2500 - Dana 60 front end.

My question basically arises out of a rattle we had in the wheel.

Pulled it apart and found there is some play between the hub and rotor.

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The lugs should pull it snug but they are not, we were wondering if there is supposed to be some sort of washer on the inside of the rotor so that it snugs it up.

If there are washers missing, what kind should we put in it, better yet how are we supposed to get that thing apart in the first place to get them out, can we just knock them out with a mallet individually?

We kind of tried that but didn't wack them too hard.

Any ideas?
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:51 PM
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The play may be in the hub bearing - has this been replaced recently? Also, be sure to torque the center nut to spec, so that the bearing won't fail prematurely. Also, check the front axle U-joint just behind the bearing for wear/looseness, as these are famous for going bad and causing noises.

When I took apart my rotor from the hub, I used my air hammer with a punch to knock the studs out to allow the hub bearing assembly and the rotor to separate. When I put the new hub bearing assembly back onto the rotor, I took three pieces of 2" x 12" wood, nailed them together and drilled 8 holes for the lug nuts to pass thru. I then set the hub assembly and rotor onto the wood jig and used the air hammer and punch to knock the lug studs back into the hub/rotor to get everything put back together again. I do not recall a washer being in between the rotor and the hub bearing assembly.

Last edited by AtomicDog; 08-02-2013 at 11:54 PM..
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:48 AM
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No, no washers go in there.

They press in, but most people use air or regular hammers.

Cheap hub bearing assemblies may not have OE spec holes in the flange, so OE spec studs may not fit properly.
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:02 AM
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So simply tightening the lug nuts on wouldn't have the power it requires to get it pressed on there.

We know the play is coming from that area, we tried tightening the lug really hard but it won't pull them together.

Would it be to our benefit to use an impact hammer on the back of the 'bolt?' shown in the third picture.
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:43 AM
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Typically the studs are swaged in. Driving with them loose is begging for trouble. Wheels come off that way, and without much if any warning. It's worth it to get it done right at a shop.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:18 AM
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They were like this when the truck was bought, what is a shop going to do differently exactly?

Its not like we don't have proper equipment in our shop.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:25 AM
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I usually have a couple sacrificial nuts that I use to draw the lugs tight. (with an impact wrench.......) Washer with large hole goes on first, then use nut to draw lug in. Never had a problem with it. Nothing goes between the rotor, and hub.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:30 AM
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Since you have the proper equipment, please install those lug studs correctly. They must be driven in firmly and the back of the stud must be driven in all the way, either using a large/heavy hammer+flat punch or a good air hammer+flat punch. Trying to pull those studs up using the lug nuts is asking for trouble and not the proper way to re-install the studs of a 3/4 ton truck. You want to ensure that the studs are driven flush against the rotor from the backside, as in your picture #3. This will ensure that when you tighten the lug nuts, they will not loosen later.

Last edited by AtomicDog; 08-03-2013 at 08:36 AM..
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicDog View Post
Since you have the proper equipment, please install those lug studs correctly. They must be driven in firmly and the back of the stud must be driven in all the way, either using a large/heavy hammer+flat punch or a good air hammer+flat punch. Trying to pull those studs up using the lug nuts is asking for trouble and not the proper way to re-install the studs of a 3/4 ton truck. You want to ensure that the studs are driven flush against the rotor from the backside, as in your picture #3. This will ensure that when you tighten the lug nuts, they will not loosen later.
Been doing it that way for decades, on customer vehicles as well, and it has never been a problem. Consider, I am only applying force in the exact same fashion that bolting on the wheel does. There is no issue there.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:53 AM
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If you have a really good/strong hi-torque impact wrench and have experience with doing the job, I can see where your technique will certainly work, however, there is nothing like knowing that the stud is fully seated by seeing it hammered in flush against the rotor. This eliminates issues like the one the poster is experiencing. Personally, I take no chances with these heavy trucks..
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:53 AM
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