Engine Block Plugs / Flushing Engine Coolant - DodgeForum.com



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Engine Block Plugs / Flushing Engine Coolant

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Old 08-27-2013, 10:39 AM
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captinapple captinapple is offline
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Default Engine Block Plugs / Flushing Engine Coolant

1995 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 4x4 Automatic SLT Short Bed

I'm trying to flush my engine coolant. I have drained the coolant out of the radiator and now I want to drain the rest out of the block. There are two plugs on either side of the block.
Does anyone have a picture of these plugs?
I found 2 but they are both different bolt sizes and the are difficult to reach.
Also is it possible to drain one plug and remove all the coolant?

Thanks
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:55 AM
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Drain plugs will be center of the block, just above the oil pan rail. Most of the time, they are just pipe plugs, and really shouldn't be that hard to get to. Keep in mind, they have been in there since 95.... and more than likely have become one with the block..... Hitting them with chems several times before you even attempt to remove them is going to be pretty much a requirement.

Just pulling one won't drain the whole block.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:05 PM
aofarrell2 aofarrell2 is offline
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Also O'reillys caries a flushing kit, that goes in place of your radiator cap. You hook a garden hose up to it and turn the hose and engine on (COLD ENGINE ONLY), then run water in/out until it comes clean.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:07 PM
AtomicDog AtomicDog is offline
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When I remove the block drain plugs, I soak them with PB Blaster and let it set for a bit. Then, I remove them with an impact wrench, using an impact grade socket. Never fails..

Are you having any issues with cooling or are you doing the flush as preventative maintenance?
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:55 AM
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mine are tucked in sort of behind the engine mounts and difficult to get a wrench onto. they were also seized in.

mine were hex pipe plugs, not square, and they tried their best to round off. for some reason i can't remember, i couldn't get a hex socket on it, only a stupid wrench. i finally ended up clamping my best vise grips on the hex to keep it from rounding. when reinstalling, use some teflon tape or teflon liquid to prevent seize.

its worth the effort to remove them. mine puked out scale and rusty dirt.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:48 PM
AtomicDog AtomicDog is offline
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Once you remove the block drain plugs, if you notice a fair amount of rusty muck coming out of the holes, you might want to consider removing the freeze plugs on each side of the block to really clean out the rust and gunk that tends to accumulate in these motors around the lower cylinders over time, especially if the cooling system hasn't been well maintained. The plugs are fairly easy to change and are 1-5/8" in diameter. I replaced mine with brass deep cup plugs.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtomicDog View Post
Once you remove the block drain plugs, if you notice a fair amount of rusty muck coming out of the holes, you might want to consider removing the freeze plugs on each side of the block to really clean out the rust and gunk that tends to accumulate in these motors around the lower cylinders over time, especially if the cooling system hasn't been well maintained. The plugs are fairly easy to change and are 1-5/8" in diameter. I replaced mine with brass deep cup plugs.

Why deep cup plugs? Won't that restrict flow somewhat? Just asking so others can also know .
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Old 08-28-2013, 10:47 PM
AtomicDog AtomicDog is offline
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I use deep cup freeze brass plugs as a precaution to minimize the possibility of a freeze plug popping out prematurely. The deep freeze plugs do not inhibit flow in the least, especially when you consider the amount of muck (rust, dirt and silt) that ends up being trapped in the lower block behind the freeze plugs in motors whose cooling systems are neglected. I have found that that muck definitely inhibits flow and in severe case contributes to engine overheating issues.
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