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Standard or reverse gears?

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Old 10-03-2013, 10:02 PM
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Default Standard or reverse gears?

Hey guys. My dad and I are about to order 4.88 gears for his truck (1998 ram 1500) and I was just wondering if we need standard or reverse gears and if we need any other parts. My truck has 4.56 but it came with them when I bought it so I'm not too sure. We are ordering 4.88 gears for Chrysler 9.25, 4.88 gears for Dana 44, Detroit Locker TruTrac for Dana 44 30 spline (Won't need new carrier this way,) and installation kits. Hope to have everything installed next week.

What's the difference between standard and reverse gears anyway?
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:16 AM
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You need standard gears.

Reverse cut gears are for high pinion dana 44s (and 60s) which came in fords.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:25 PM
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Okay thanks. Anything else I need?
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:16 PM
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Okay so now we are about to continue working on his truck and I have been doing some research and I've read that I need reverse gears for the front? Can anyone else offer any advice? I would hate to order all of the parts then realise during the installstion that some parts dont fit. Thanks.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:38 PM
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no, you need standard cut/standard rotation gears.
also for the front - since the gear ratio is over 3.72 numerically, you will need EITHER thick cut gears or a different carrier from the stock version used by the 3.55

do this - go to randy's ring and pinion or other good sites with application lookup and it will tell you what to get. reverse cut is for high-pinion. our dodge is low pinion.
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhvaughan View Post
no, you need standard cut/standard rotation gears.
also for the front - since the gear ratio is over 3.72 numerically, you will need EITHER thick cut gears or a different carrier from the stock version used by the 3.55

do this - go to randy's ring and pinion or other good sites with application lookup and it will tell you what to get. reverse cut is for high-pinion. our dodge is low pinion.
Thanks. im acrually buying a locker for the front so it will work as a carrier for 3.73 and up. I have that part figured out lol. I'm on Randy's ring and pinion right now. Very helpful. Also, another thing.. I was reading another thread on the forum and the guy got a ring and pinion with 10 ring gear bolt and had to wait to receive a 12 ring bear bolt. Randy's ring and pinion says 10 ring gear bolt. So which one do I need? A lot of things to know when purchasing ring and pinion.
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:46 PM
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Count the holes on your carrier.... Or, call and ask the folks you are buying it from how many holes.
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Old 11-09-2013, 09:40 PM
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Do a 1 ton swap instead!

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...a-60-swap.html
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:14 PM
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Count the holes on your carrier.... Or, call and ask the folks you are buying it from how many holes.
I'm not really buying a carrier. I'm buying a Detroit locker for the front and to my knowledge a locker replaces the carrier. But why does the number of holes matter? Did they vary in our trucks? Never heard about this before but I'm not very knowledge on differential internals.

I've done a little bit more research and I think I'm set to buy them. My last questions is do I need special gear oil or an additive? Ive read that for the frst 500 miles you are supposed to have a certain gear oil or is this wrong? The ring and pinion and installation kits don't say anything about it.
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle View Post
Oh I have definately thought about it but its sadly out of my price range. If I were to run any bigger than what I run now (35) and/or offroad a little harder I would definately consider it more.
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:09 AM
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Thornloe,
A locker such as the TruTrac is a replacement carrier. Or as you said it replaces your stock carrier with a new unit. With the TruTrac it doesn't require any type of special oil. A 90w gear oil will work fine for break in and living in Canada you might want to run a lighter multi-weight gear oil after the break in miles.


Now as for ring gear bolts- Dana 44 uses 10 and the 9.25" is 12 bolts. The TruTrac that you are going to order will have the correct amount of holes in it. In all the years I've worked on rigs and been setting up gears I have never had to worry about getting the correct amount of bolts. As long as I ordered the correct install kit it always came with the correct amount of bolts.


Good luck and have fun....................................If you're doing this swap yourself and are new at it the best advice I can offer is TAKE YOUR TIME. Get it right before you close things up. If you rush and setup the gears incorrectly they won't last long and you'll be back doing it all over again.


You've already asked a lot of questions. Which is good but if you get into the job and need more info please ask question and we'll try to help you out.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thornloe Pride View Post
I'm not really buying a carrier. I'm buying a Detroit locker for the front and to my knowledge a locker replaces the carrier. But why does the number of holes matter? Did they vary in our trucks? Never heard about this before but I'm not very knowledge on differential internals.

I've done a little bit more research and I think I'm set to buy them. My last questions is do I need special gear oil or an additive? Ive read that for the frst 500 miles you are supposed to have a certain gear oil or is this wrong? The ring and pinion and installation kits don't say anything about it.
Detroit locker IS the carrier. And yes, first I have heard of this too, and we have had LOTS of gear change threads here.....
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Old 11-10-2013, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildman4x4nut View Post
Thornloe,
A locker such as the TruTrac is a replacement carrier. Or as you said it replaces your stock carrier with a new unit. With the TruTrac it doesn't require any type of special oil. A 90w gear oil will work fine for break in and living in Canada you might want to run a lighter multi-weight gear oil after the break in miles.


Now as for ring gear bolts- Dana 44 uses 10 and the 9.25" is 12 bolts. The TruTrac that you are going to order will have the correct amount of holes in it. In all the years I've worked on rigs and been setting up gears I have never had to worry about getting the correct amount of bolts. As long as I ordered the correct install kit it always came with the correct amount of bolts.


Good luck and have fun....................................If you're doing this swap yourself and are new at it the best advice I can offer is TAKE YOUR TIME. Get it right before you close things up. If you rush and setup the gears incorrectly they won't last long and you'll be back doing it all over again.


You've already asked a lot of questions. Which is good but if you get into the job and need more info please ask question and we'll try to help you out.
Thanks for the help. It all makes sense now. I checked my cart just to double check everything and I am good to go. There's a lot of things to know when buying gears so I wanted to be extra sure I'm good to go. I would hate to screw something up after spending over $1000 on everything. I'm pretty good mechanically but I have never opened up a differential. Luckily my dad has done quite a few back in his offroading days but only on Toyotas so it will be a learning experience for us both. Thanks for everything guys and if I have any questions during the install I will ask away.
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Old 11-10-2013, 01:18 PM
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I've spent the morning looking up more info and I'm trying to decide between a trutrac or an Eaton E-locker in the front. The price difference is about $250. The truck will be a DD and will see mild off-road.
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Old 11-10-2013, 01:42 PM
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i see you're in canada. i guess it snows up there, lol...

something to consider - since the design of our front axle is a disconnect, that gives you an extra level of control - you might want to consider a basic locker combined with a posilock cable.

that might save a lot of money and give you a simple control over being locked up solid vs completely open. and - if your horsepower and tire size is modest, you could even do a lockright to save even more.

a true-trac is just a limited slip, meaning that it always tries to pull at least one tire. but a locker is a locker - it'll dig with both wheels regardless. if you want real traction go with the locker but be sure and provide a way to unlock it via elocker, air, or cable or else it'll put you in the ditch when you're not expecting it.
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:17 PM
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Thornloe, what have you found in reviews for the e-locker? Better yet, an e-locker in 6K rig with a front Dana44?

Going by your signature of mods and that you're use is DD and mild offroad you are not unlike my setup. Aside from my engine mods, we differ further in that you're putting money into the D44. Not knocking you at all, plus you've got some extra backup in Dad.

I'd really suggest you stick with the Truetrac. It is very reliable and practically maintenance free. The axleshafts and ujoints will have some relief with the limited slip compared to a full locker. This is even a greater benefit in the snow. Lots of times in the snow with a full locker the front end will just move sideways, no traction. The LSD will be able compensate for some of that better.

This is just my experience with watching other rigs on the many snow runs I've done. The e-lockers I have been in presence with are those in JKs with the factory e-locker. A coworker replaced his rear with an ARB b/c the magnetic engagement piece failed. Over time, a physical clearance opens up that moves the magnetic engagement away, therefore, partial lock/unlock. His front has been salvaged with a set of shims.
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Old 11-10-2013, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle View Post
Thornloe, what have you found in reviews for the e-locker? Better yet, an e-locker in 6K rig with a front Dana44?

Going by your signature of mods and that you're use is DD and mild offroad you are not unlike my setup. Aside from my engine mods, we differ further in that you're putting money into the D44. Not knocking you at all, plus you've got some extra backup in Dad.

I'd really suggest you stick with the Truetrac. It is very reliable and practically maintenance free. The axleshafts and ujoints will have some relief with the limited slip compared to a full locker. This is even a greater benefit in the snow. Lots of times in the snow with a full locker the front end will just move sideways, no traction. The LSD will be able compensate for some of that better.

This is just my experience with watching other rigs on the many snow runs I've done. The e-lockers I have been in presence with are those in JKs with the factory e-locker. A coworker replaced his rear with an ARB b/c the magnetic engagement piece failed. Over time, a physical clearance opens up that moves the magnetic engagement away, therefore, partial lock/unlock. His front has been salvaged with a set of shims.
I've read a fair share of reviews, mostly from this site as I am looking for reviews from the same exact truck and most guys love them. As for trutrac its either love or hate. A lot of guys love them for DD purposes but not so much offroad, especially if you have one wheel off the ground. For mild offroad use they don't seem to be too bad. My buddy has a JK with factory e-lockers and he seems to love them. One of the only complaints I have heard about e-lockers is the cost but its not quite proven technology yet. The one thing I love about trutrac is that its always there and there's NO maintance no switches etc.
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Last edited by Thornloe Pride; 11-10-2013 at 05:10 PM..
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thornloe Pride View Post
I've read a fair share of reviews, mostly from this site as I am looking for reviews from the same exact truck and most guys love them. As for trutrac its either love or hate. A lot of guys love them for DD purposes but not so much offroad, especially if you have one wheel off the ground. For mild offroad use they don't seem to be too bad. My buddy has a JK with factory e-lockers and he seems to love them. One of the only complaints I have heard about e-lockers is the cost but its not quite proven technology yet. The one thing I love about trutrac is that its always there and there's NO maintance no switches etc.

Hopefully you will come back to provide a review on the elocker. This is the only thread I was able to find. Admittedly I didn't try to hard.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...for-front.html

I'd have to disagree with you about the elockers not being proven. They've been around at least since 2006. They are in JKs and LJs, as well as PowerWagons. Very well proven with all those vehicles out there running them.

Extra clarification about the love/hate regarding TrueTracs. Typically this is the situation where people have them in the rear. They are very touchy with acceleration and additionally during turns. So far I haven't come across front truetrac's with that symptom, however, that's just my experience. A rear locker really should be the first one if both axles can't be done at the same time. People make the mistake of running only a front locker with the thought of it "pulling" them up and over things, dragging the rest. That is 100% recipe for breakage. I will say the stock LSD in the 9.25" is pretty darn good when the clutch plates aren't worn out. lol

Oh, what kind of terrain we talking about for you guys up in the great white north? Anything like the stuff I show in my videos? There are times I wish I could have a trail with no rocks. lol
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
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Hopefully you will come back to provide a review on the elocker. This is the only thread I was able to find. Admittedly I didn't try to hard.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...for-front.html

I'd have to disagree with you about the elockers not being proven. They've been around at least since 2006. They are in JKs and LJs, as well as PowerWagons. Very well proven with all those vehicles out there running them.

Extra clarification about the love/hate regarding TrueTracs. Typically this is the situation where people have them in the rear. They are very touchy with acceleration and additionally during turns. So far I haven't come across front truetrac's with that symptom, however, that's just my experience. A rear locker really should be the first one if both axles can't be done at the same time. People make the mistake of running only a front locker with the thought of it "pulling" them up and over things, dragging the rest. That is 100% recipe for breakage. I will say the stock LSD in the 9.25" is pretty darn good when the clutch plates aren't worn out. lol

Oh, what kind of terrain we talking about for you guys up in the great white north? Anything like the stuff I show in my videos? There are times I wish I could have a trail with no rocks. lol
E-lockers have great reviews I'm just not big on the whole "electronic" thing over the mechanical truetrac but on the other hand i like the fact that its fully locked when needed. Im starting to think i will just go with the trutrac. sounds like it suits my needs better,easier on parts, more reliable and is cheaper. Would you happen to know how the truetrac in a front diff would perform when highway driving through a snowstorm or something? The truck that the locker/truetrac is going into has the stock 9.25 LSD And I find it works pretty good. Up here we mostly deal with logging trails/mud/snow. Not many rocks. Lots of clay and the odd swampy terrain.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:10 PM
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If you had a D60, then yes full locker. Full locker in that rig's D44 is only a timebomb. I really dislike saying that. Full locker just adds so much more load to the entire front drivetrain. Additionally, when traction is present steering becomes muted, especially with the stock steering pump. If you haven't already, then I'd suggest you add a power steering cooler. The pump will love you for it.

As said, I can't speak to having a front limited in my rig. But here are my logical thoughts to take for what it's worth.

1. streetability will be just like open. No load driving it to lock up.
2. offroad in 4hi/lo, it will respond based on load up.
3. It will take perhaps a partial to full revolution to engage when going very slow on the pedal. This is a good thing and is the compliant part I was speaking to before.
4. Steering will get difficult and will vary based on amount of loadup. Again, driving style is big factor.
5. Be wary of any lurching by the engine. I think you are ok b/c of the 4.56 gears.
6. Wide open dirt roads, I think it will work like a dream!
7. I would think of this thing as OPEN front, that when I know how to engage it, a big grin will be on my face.
8. In snow it will be less prone to full locker behavior. One tire will be an anchor enough until other side gets traction. Will help minimize continued sideways motion, which always seems to be the way you DON'T want to go. lol
9. Wet stuff....that stuff is a crap shoot no matter what. So I have no comment on that, sorry.


Here is a recent thread...did you post this? hahaha

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ac-my-4x4.html
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