Well this morning I went to check my oil and that was good and something caught my eye on the drivers side down by the windshield washer tank. There was a wire hanging with a plug so I reached down and took the plug and plugged it in the windshield washer pump (only logical place) well anyway I went to turn the key (to check the operation of the windshield washer pump) to acc right before cranking the engine and the brake warning light went out with all the other warning lights in the dash. I thought oh this is just a coincidence so I shut the key off and turned it back on a couple of times and the same thing happen each time. So anyway I went to see if the windshield washer pump works and it doesn't (first time trying since I bought the truck) so I am thinking the pump is bad or a fuse is blown. I got called into the house for breakfast so I haven't been back out there yet but I wanted to post my findings.

 

Well my last post was only a temporary because the stupid brake warning light came on in the dash. But I did get my windshield washer motor working, now onto my problem again with the brake warning light in the dash< I received the new ABS sensor and I already changed it (I did have a little problem getting it out) and unhooked the negative battery cable and turned on the head lights to reset the check engine and warning lights in the dash so I hooked the battery cable back up and turned the key and the flipping brake warning light stayed on. So I started the truck and let it run and the light stayed on so I crawled back under the truck to check the connector and it was hooked up and felt tight.
Now onto my question: Does it take time or miles to get the thing to actually reset everything ? OR is there another problem that anyone can think of that I might try ? I am even thinking about taking over to Midas or last resorts to the dodge dealership to fix this annoying brake warning light.

 

Nope, the light should go off as soon as the problem is solved. If the ABS lite is NOT on, it's going to be the brake lite switch, the parking brake switch, or the combination valve.

 

Thanks, I will look into ordering both those switches before messing with the combination valve

 

Have you tried bleeding your brakes? See if that turns the light off.

Also, if you have a volt meter, you can easily test the parking brake switch.

 

Bleed them at the master cylinder or at each wheel ? I will try the volt meter on both of the switches, so I take it if it is reading any volts then the switch is good and if it reads zero volts the switch is bad ?

 

At each wheel.

I think the park brake switch is normally closed.... (pedal opens the circuit)

Combination valve should be the same way. I think it is only one wire.

 

Combo valve has two wires and the sensor was on screwed in there hand tight so I unhooked the plug and took out sensor to see if it worked. The little nub on the end goes in and out when you push it so I know the sensor must be good. In the morning I will put the sensor or switch back on the combo valve and tighten it and top off brake fluid in master cylinder and see if that works. If it doesn't I will proceed to the next step in bleeding the brakes even though I have a solid pedal when I push on the brake pedal. I am thinking if that doesn't work I am just going to lose my mind.

 

Well I put the sensor or switch back on the combo valve: tighten it and hooked the wire (plug) back up as seen in this photo:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-x...314_113526.jpg

I also am curious what is this thing called that has brake lines coming from the combo valve into it ? Please see photo:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Y...314_113539.jpg

 

I also proceeded to bleed the brakes at each wheel starting rear pass side and continued to the rear drivers side and to the front pass side and finished with the front drivers side and the brake light is still on I even bled them three times (each wheel to make sure. I also bled the master cylinder three times each line. I always made sure to keep topping off master cylinder with each time bleeding the brakes.

Now I been told by others that the master cylinder might be going out that is why the brake warning light is on and/ also the combination valve is going bad even though I have a nice solid brake pedal