Upgrading from a 3 to 5 inch lift.
#1
02-28-2014, 10:51 PM
Join Date: Dec 2013
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Upgrading from a 3 to 5 inch lift.
I have a 1999 dodge ram 1500 5.9 sport that is going to be due for tires within the next several months (More on why this is relevant later). I currently have a 3 inch lift with stock length monroe shocks. I was wondering if I could do a few things...
1: Install 2500 shocks in the front. Ive read that they increase height 1.5-2.0 inches. They also will reduce the amount of blocks, etc and therefore are somewhat more stable IMHO. Cost 50$ compared to 150$ for spacers.
2. Install rough country add-a-leaf in rear. Estimated lift is 1.5-2.0 inches so itll be about right. I may, depending on how much increase I get, have to fabricate a small metal spacer to even up the heights.
3. Add "shock extensions" to increase length of shocks. I don't do anything heavy on my truck as far as extending suspension and doing mud runs, so shock extensions will be ok for my purposes. I will have to remount bump stop to prevent bottoming out the shock. The other way already happens as the solid axle design uses shocks to hold the axle from falling off (I assume anyways, nothing else does except hoses and stuff.
4. Move bump stops in rear as well as fabricating bracket extension for shocks.
5. Check all break lines, electrical wires, and vacuum hose for front axle for length issues.
6. Install a nice set of 18inch rims with 35 inch tires. This basically is the whole reason for lifting truck...to run 35s. I know you can run 35 in a 3 inch lift, but I've heard its asking for trouble.
7. Figure out differential swap. Currently running 3.53 gears I think. Probably should swap out for a 3.73 at least.
What you all think? Is it doable? I think I feel safer with spring swaps as opposed to block additions. I can get a superlift 5inch block lift for rear with u bolts for 75$, but I don't want 5inch blocks. I wouldnt feel safe even with bars to support the axle because of side to side movement. Spring lift will also only cost me around 200$. Not much considering a good 4 or 5 inch lift is much more. Not looking foward to the upcoming 1400$ bill on MT Bajas and probably 600$ on wheels. Friggin' money pit...
1: Install 2500 shocks in the front. Ive read that they increase height 1.5-2.0 inches. They also will reduce the amount of blocks, etc and therefore are somewhat more stable IMHO. Cost 50$ compared to 150$ for spacers.
2. Install rough country add-a-leaf in rear. Estimated lift is 1.5-2.0 inches so itll be about right. I may, depending on how much increase I get, have to fabricate a small metal spacer to even up the heights.
3. Add "shock extensions" to increase length of shocks. I don't do anything heavy on my truck as far as extending suspension and doing mud runs, so shock extensions will be ok for my purposes. I will have to remount bump stop to prevent bottoming out the shock. The other way already happens as the solid axle design uses shocks to hold the axle from falling off (I assume anyways, nothing else does except hoses and stuff.
4. Move bump stops in rear as well as fabricating bracket extension for shocks.
5. Check all break lines, electrical wires, and vacuum hose for front axle for length issues.
6. Install a nice set of 18inch rims with 35 inch tires. This basically is the whole reason for lifting truck...to run 35s. I know you can run 35 in a 3 inch lift, but I've heard its asking for trouble.
7. Figure out differential swap. Currently running 3.53 gears I think. Probably should swap out for a 3.73 at least.
What you all think? Is it doable? I think I feel safer with spring swaps as opposed to block additions. I can get a superlift 5inch block lift for rear with u bolts for 75$, but I don't want 5inch blocks. I wouldnt feel safe even with bars to support the axle because of side to side movement. Spring lift will also only cost me around 200$. Not much considering a good 4 or 5 inch lift is much more. Not looking foward to the upcoming 1400$ bill on MT Bajas and probably 600$ on wheels. Friggin' money pit...
#2
03-01-2014, 12:48 AM
Kits cost a lot more because you need a dropped pitman arm, dropped track bar bracket and dropped sway bar brackets for that kind of height. You are pretty close to maxed out in those departments right now so those need addressing if you want to go higher. Wedged rear blocks to correct pinion angle are also included in some kits which is a good idea.
Also, shocks don't increase height, springs do. Not sure if that was a typo or not on point #1. I wouldn't bother messing extensions of any sort, lift shocks from Rough Country or the like aren't that expensive.
From my experiences running 5" of lift, my rear brake line was too short so I bought a RBL60 Skyjacker piece to replace it. My front driveshaft vibrates in 4wd, is maxed right out and so I will require an indexing ring for my tcase (I have a thread on this).
If you care not about lift and just want to run 35" tires, I would seriously consider leaving the truck as is if it works and research what backspacing yields the best results for running 35" tires. You definately are not the first to run that setup.
For gears, I believe 4.10 will just barely cut it is recommended that you are in the region of 4.56 to be back where the truck was with factory tires.
Also, shocks don't increase height, springs do. Not sure if that was a typo or not on point #1. I wouldn't bother messing extensions of any sort, lift shocks from Rough Country or the like aren't that expensive.
From my experiences running 5" of lift, my rear brake line was too short so I bought a RBL60 Skyjacker piece to replace it. My front driveshaft vibrates in 4wd, is maxed right out and so I will require an indexing ring for my tcase (I have a thread on this).
If you care not about lift and just want to run 35" tires, I would seriously consider leaving the truck as is if it works and research what backspacing yields the best results for running 35" tires. You definately are not the first to run that setup.
For gears, I believe 4.10 will just barely cut it is recommended that you are in the region of 4.56 to be back where the truck was with factory tires.
#3
03-01-2014, 09:30 AM
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 80
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Kits cost a lot more because you need a dropped pitman arm, dropped track bar bracket and dropped sway bar brackets for that kind of height. You are pretty close to maxed out in those departments right now so those need addressing if you want to go higher. Wedged rear blocks to correct pinion angle are also included in some kits which is a good idea.
Also, shocks don't increase height, springs do. Not sure if that was a typo or not on point #1. I wouldn't bother messing extensions of any sort, lift shocks from Rough Country or the like aren't that expensive.
From my experiences running 5" of lift, my rear brake line was too short so I bought a RBL60 Skyjacker piece to replace it. My front driveshaft vibrates in 4wd, is maxed right out and so I will require an indexing ring for my tcase (I have a thread on this).
If you care not about lift and just want to run 35" tires, I would seriously consider leaving the truck as is if it works and research what backspacing yields the best results for running 35" tires. You definately are not the first to run that setup.
For gears, I believe 4.10 will just barely cut it is recommended that you are in the region of 4.56 to be back where the truck was with factory tires.
Also, shocks don't increase height, springs do. Not sure if that was a typo or not on point #1. I wouldn't bother messing extensions of any sort, lift shocks from Rough Country or the like aren't that expensive.
From my experiences running 5" of lift, my rear brake line was too short so I bought a RBL60 Skyjacker piece to replace it. My front driveshaft vibrates in 4wd, is maxed right out and so I will require an indexing ring for my tcase (I have a thread on this).
If you care not about lift and just want to run 35" tires, I would seriously consider leaving the truck as is if it works and research what backspacing yields the best results for running 35" tires. You definately are not the first to run that setup.
For gears, I believe 4.10 will just barely cut it is recommended that you are in the region of 4.56 to be back where the truck was with factory tires.
Yes, that was a typo. Sorry about that, I mean springs.
Never looked into indexing rings. Ill have to make sure I remember that if I do lift.
Leaving the lift at 3 and putting 35s would actually fit my bill better. I don't do offroading except for driving around on the farm and I think that even 35s on a 5-6 inch lift will look small. I would rather have 35s on a 3 inch to make them look more proportionate to the truck. But sure, if I am only one out of many, Ill definitely opt for for that. Id rather spend 600 for wheels and save a few hundred on a lift that I don't need. Not to mention, block fab, pitman arms, etc.
Still probably have to get pinions. I could go ahead and get them 1 set at a time so that its not one big bill. Obviously won't be able to install until I have both, but itll be more like a payment plan. Get the wheels in sets of 2 over a period of time. Then wheels are just gonna suck. Part of running big tires lol. thanks for the help.
