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Leaking coolant...smell gas

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  #11  
Old 04-14-2014, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Libertarian Ray
Duh. Took back driver side wheel well liner off because I was having trouble getting off hoses off fuel neck. Yeah...and could clearly see pump. So I connected the neg bat cable, out in FP relay and primed it. Was able to get the nuts on the tank straps loose with HeyYou's advice.

The fuel line connection is right there on the wheel side of the pump. The fuel line just below the fitting for the pump is cracked and spraying quite a bit of gas. So I need a new fuel line/ fitting for sure.

Anything I should consider on a new line? Cannot really see where it goes after down side of the tank. Is this something I might be able to do without pulling out the tank? Looking for diagrams and parts now. Thanks.
Raising the bed is always easier than dropping the tank in my opinion (i've done it both ways)! Just loosen the six bed bolts, remove the tailgate, disconnect the wiring harnesses for tail lights and license plate lights, and have someone help you lift it up. I put a moving blanket on the rear bumper and set the rear of the bed up on there and the front corner of the wheel well on the rear tires. gives you so much room and you can do everything standing up rather than laying on your back. That tank is bulky and annoying because you cant see the fittings very well to disconnect them.
 
  #12  
Old 07-30-2014, 08:47 PM
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So my truck has been sitting since April. Removed the bed...pain in the rear. I have a few problems. First is the fuel line has a gaping hole on the plastic hose coming from fuel regulator. There is a quick connect that goes into tube and huge hole in the plastic tube
. Second is there is a black rubber cap on fuel pump that has a little ring clamp...kind you squeeze to lift off. the top of it is gone...looks like torn off. It is the little cap on top of the hole in the picture. Note this is not my fuel pump but looks the same.

Third...have tried to get lines everywhere. Dealer does not stock and everyone I have called says don't have 'em. Main reason truck has been sitting. Fourth...there is a wire that goes from driver side frame to center of the rear axle. Wire is cut. Last is the rust under there. Have a KBS frame coating kit going to apply. Landlord threatening to have truck towed...up against the wall. Gotta get the new line...please help.
 
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Last edited by Libertarian Ray; 07-30-2014 at 08:55 PM.
  #13  
Old 07-30-2014, 10:27 PM
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Dorman makes a fuel line repair kit..... (not that I like them much, but...... ya use what you can find.) Should be able to get one at most any auto parts store. (The listing showed autozone....)

The wire going to the rear diff is the rear wheel speed sensor. Should be two wires.... It's just for the rear wheel anti-lock brakes, that aren't worth spit anyway......

I think that 'hole' there..... the cap for it should have a hose nipple on it. Think that's for the vapor recovery system.
 
  #14  
Old 07-30-2014, 10:33 PM
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Thanks...will take old line over to Autozone tomorrow. That ABS part is a few hundred bucks? And yes it is two wires, both cut. Can I just eliminate this part ...or repair the wiring
? Hopefully wrap it up by end of the weekend. Can you post pics directly from computer here or do you need to post them elsewhere and then link?
 

Last edited by Libertarian Ray; 07-30-2014 at 11:00 PM.
  #15  
Old 07-30-2014, 11:00 PM
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Easiest is to upload them to site like photobucket. then copy and paste the url to the thread post. Then pic shows up instantly with no need to click on thumbnails
 
  #16  
Old 07-31-2014, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Libertarian Ray
Thanks...will take old line over to Autozone tomorrow. That ABS part is a few hundred bucks? And yes it is two wires, both cut. Can I just eliminate this part ...or repair the wiring
? Hopefully wrap it up by end of the weekend. Can you post pics directly from computer here or do you need to post them elsewhere and then link?
I think the sensor is around 30 bucks or so, but, if all you need is a wiring repair, I would give that a shot first. Just splicing them together should be fine.
 
  #17  
Old 12-27-2014, 08:45 PM
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First....thanks for the help with this. I always hate looking something up and then the thread dies with no end. So fuel lines totally suck and no one wants to deal with them at the shops. The autozones and other folks don't want to hear anything either. I should have listened to HeyYou and got the Dorman steel kit right off the bat. They have everything you need and you can use autozone for the tube bender. I ended up getting tube from napa, quick connects and the nylon connectors which require special tools. Took it to a shop to have the rubber tubes attached to the steal and the poor guy did half the job, freaked, gave it back to me and told me to just leave and no charge. The Dorman kit will run you about $170 or so but gives you everything you need. I ended up having to use a compression fitting and used JB weld to finish it. Thankfully the guys I know passed me at inspection. Dorman also does nylon fuel kits but not sure how I feel about nylon....the steel will last forever like HeyYou said. I also ended up wasting months. One other thing...dealing with the fuel tank. PAIN IN THE ***. I dropped it....nightmare. Better to either lift the bed or do a tilt. Remove the wheel well and you might be agble to get away with that although it is hard. With the tilt...you can remove the four front bolts on the frame and loosen the back two. Then pull up the front with a wench or lift or some friends and then put some jack stands on the tires and hold up the bed....but be very careful and make sure they are very secure as that bed is heavy. Thanks again guys.
 



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