Dana 60 help?
#2
Sorry my "book" was erased and not published. Needed to get this up. Passenger side. 4x4 Dana 60. Axle, hub out. Ball J's cut, "tierod" removed. Rusty a$$ plow truck. PITA so far. Just a bad UJ....but so far in, and rusted need to change all.
Axle out without pulling nut. BJ's cut without pressing out "yet". UJ out.
Going to buy new ball joints, new U joint, and new Hub/bearing.
My ? was in my axle there is a "ring" for the spline near the "actuator". Now my ram has a 4x4 POSI-LOK pull control and doesn't rely on the vacuum(not sure if it works?). I pulled everything apart with it in 2 wheel drive. What do I need to do to get the axle back in right?
I'll give more info, but long posts seem to vanish from me.
Axle out without pulling nut. BJ's cut without pressing out "yet". UJ out.
Going to buy new ball joints, new U joint, and new Hub/bearing.
My ? was in my axle there is a "ring" for the spline near the "actuator". Now my ram has a 4x4 POSI-LOK pull control and doesn't rely on the vacuum(not sure if it works?). I pulled everything apart with it in 2 wheel drive. What do I need to do to get the axle back in right?
I'll give more info, but long posts seem to vanish from me.
#3
OK here we go with a try......without my post not loading. 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 with a Dana 60.......BAD passenger side U joint. Mind U, I bought the biggest POS I could find.....not really, but it is now. This was a life long plow truck, I've owned since OCT 2013(rusted POS).
I've got everything pulled now....basically. Inner axle + outer and hub/bearing assembly as one. No 1-11/16" socket here. Got the U Joint out....no needle bearings on the inside axle. I cut out the Ball Joints. The outer "Knuckle" is removed. Basically I need to remove the axle nut and get the outer axle from the hub/bearing. I could reuse as its good....no way I'm gonna do that again ....not on this side(new). Also gotta rent a BJ press.
Need suggestion on parts. Thinking the $90 Moogs/upper,lower BJ's and $45 Moog U joint? I can use coupon codes and get a 1/3+ off. But the wheel bearing/hub? Moog or hunt down National Bearing or Timline?
Now the real problem. Inside the axle housing is a "gear". This moves around. Is this normal? My truck has a aftermarket 4x4 POSI-LOK, not sure if the vacuum still works? If I were to slide the axle in, it would not go in. It crosses the bearing seal drastically(covers the hole).
OK hope this works.
I've got everything pulled now....basically. Inner axle + outer and hub/bearing assembly as one. No 1-11/16" socket here. Got the U Joint out....no needle bearings on the inside axle. I cut out the Ball Joints. The outer "Knuckle" is removed. Basically I need to remove the axle nut and get the outer axle from the hub/bearing. I could reuse as its good....no way I'm gonna do that again ....not on this side(new). Also gotta rent a BJ press.
Need suggestion on parts. Thinking the $90 Moogs/upper,lower BJ's and $45 Moog U joint? I can use coupon codes and get a 1/3+ off. But the wheel bearing/hub? Moog or hunt down National Bearing or Timline?
Now the real problem. Inside the axle housing is a "gear". This moves around. Is this normal? My truck has a aftermarket 4x4 POSI-LOK, not sure if the vacuum still works? If I were to slide the axle in, it would not go in. It crosses the bearing seal drastically(covers the hole).
OK hope this works.
#4
I know exactly what you are going through. My truck was also a snow plow truck in a prior life and rebuilding the front end was a royal pain. I replaced almost everything and the old parts fought me every step of the way. Rust is no fun!
Anyway, when you re-install the passenger side axle, make sure the axle passes through the 'ring' and then get the splines of the axle into the carrier. I removed the 4 bolts holding my CAD cover on to help me to see in there better and easily align everything.
Anyway, when you re-install the passenger side axle, make sure the axle passes through the 'ring' and then get the splines of the axle into the carrier. I removed the 4 bolts holding my CAD cover on to help me to see in there better and easily align everything.
#5
Yep. In 2wd, the locking collar will be all the way over on the stub axle. (toward the outboard side of the axle.) With the cad cover in place, chances are good the ring has fallen off into the axle. You cannot fish that back into place without pulling the cad cover. Four bolts. Hit them with chems before you try and pull 'em. They like to break.
#6
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#9
I believe I had to pick up the add-on kit that had additional press sleeves to handle the ball joints on my truck. AutoZone should have it. If not, I know Harbor Freight does, as noted below:
http://www.harborfreight.com/master-...4pc-60307.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/master-...4pc-60307.html
#10