I have a 1998 Dodge Ram Sport, which used to have a rear drum setup like many of you have. I have already made quite a few fun changes and this is how the truck sits now.



A few years ago I did a rear disc swap to my 1998 Durango and it made such a big difference I wanted very much to duplicate the process on this Ram. Being bigger and heavier, I knew it would be a huge improvement.

I'll start off by saying that at first I thought it was a bolt on operation, and while it was rather simple, it required moving the spring pads and shock mounts, and a brake line fitting change. This means some cutting, welding, and flaring. If you're up for that then this is a great swap for you. If you want to avoid welding...I wish you better luck than me in finding a bolt on solution.

I started off by finding a rear axle from a 2002 Ram 1500 on Craigslist. I noticed a few differences right off the bat but that's because this is a Gen3 Ram axle which used a different drive shaft and different wheels. I 'eyeballed' the location off the spring pads and shock mounts and 'assumed' it was the same setup since the pumpkin itself was identical and even used the same rear speed sensor and brake line block.

Before I bought the axle I at least verified that even though they used different pinion yokes that the spline count was the same and the previously mentioned speed sensor and brake line block were the same.

The first step was removing the rear axle. Since at the time I was also doing a rear bumper overhaul, I already had it and the tailgate removed, which made getting under it all that much easier. Here are some of the pics of the axle removal. Unless you have a lift or jack the back up very high, the wheels will need to be removed. Also, with a good impact, you can spin the pinion nut right off even with the wheels up in the air.








Next was the prep of the 2002 axle before I could put it under the truck. The first thing I did was strip the parts I didn't need, like the old broken speed sensor, the old brake line block, the pinion yoke seal, and the 2002 pinion yoke which as you can see is a flange style and would not allow me to use the stock 1998 drive shaft.




Then I replaced the seal, and dropped in the 1998 pinion yoke and lightly tightened the nut so I could tighten it up to torque spec later with the wheels back on the ground.





The next step was actually rather easy but it required a lot of patience, measuring, verifying, cutting, measuring, verifying, and welding. I used the 1998 axle as the guide, which was right next to the 2002 axle, so I had an easy and factory correct template. I used everything from a square and tape to Sharpie and clamps. They all served their purpose as I cut the brackets loose with a grinder and a cutting wheel and then welded them in place where they needed to be.










Next I bought new brake lines, cut the 1998 fittings from the old lines, installed them on the new lines, and flared them to fit in the factory brake line block which mounts in the factory location.





Finally it was time for installation. I needed a way to keep the rear end level and steady as I rolled it up under the truck, but I didn't want it strapped to anything so I could play with it's positioning as I knew lining it up under the springs and shocks could prove difficult.

My solution ended up being very simple. I used one of the old drums, literally bolted to the jack's lifting pad, using the pad and it's bolt as the method that held it down on the jack's arm. It worked phenomenally well.






Once the axle was under the truck and raised up under the springs, it was a rather simple matter of reconnecting everything. Spring bolts, shocks, brake lines, speed sensor / harness, and drive shaft.






As I mentioned, I waited until the truck was back down on it's wheels before torquing the pinion nut. I did not do anything inside the rear end and I did not remove the crush sleeve. My research led me to believe if I torqued it to no less than 180 ft lbs, and no higher than 190 ft lbs...I would get it back to factory torque specs without going over and causing it to crush more.

I re-verified all brake line connections, checked all bolts and nuts for torque value, bled the brakes, and took it for a test drive. It was FANTASTIC. The difference in stopping power from the drums to the discs was amazing. I know there are some Gen2 Rams with rear discs but most if not all 1500's lack them and honestly it's a profound difference and to me quite needed.

One final note, since I never use my E-brake, and since I found no immediate solution for retrofitting or combining the old E-brake system with the new...I simply deleted it. I left the pedal but I removed all the cables. I can re-address it later but for now it works great as is and like I said I never use the E-brake system.

I hope this helps a few people out in case this is something you have wanted to do but didn't know how to do it.

 

Hook your e brake system up. It will save your life one day.


Nice swap though. Rear disc brakes Are pretty nice ain't they? As far as I know NO second gen 1500 came from the factory with rear disc brakes. And only the very late 2500 and 3500? Models did. I know 2002.5 2500 has rear disc because that's what's under my truck

I'm not trying to rain on your parade but a rear Dana 60 swap can be as simple as cutting and welding smaller perches on. Just somethin to keep in mind.

But third gen 1500 axles are a lot more plentiful than rear disc Dana 60s

 

Sorry but I disagree with the E-brakes. Different story if I drove anything with a manual but I don't. In the 20 years I have been driving, manuals excluded, I have never once needed or used an E-brake, in any car of mine, from my 1977 Corvette to my truck, Durango, Wife's Saab, or anything before them to my first car ever, a Taurus.

As far as the D60 swap, I did read about it being easier, but I ran into two issues looking for one of those. Cost, and gear ratios. If someone found a good deal I have no doubts it's a better option. I didn't, and most probably won't, so I wanted to outline how I achieved the swap for a total of $200 and some change after new parts.

 

Nice write up.

 

Excellent write-up, and I want to do it for my 97 1500. Do you know if the 02 axle will work similarly on a 97 1500?

 

Not sure. If you have the corporate axle like I had, probably. I can measure the distance of the spring pads and shock mounts on my 1998 axle if you need me to.

 

If you don't mind that would be great, but no hurry. Thanks.

 

It's been a busy week. I'll try to take those measurements for you this afternoon after work.

 

Brewman,

Okay I finally had some time and I got out into the shop and measured the spring pads and shock mount brackets from the flanges at the end of the axle tube, that the drum backing plate bolts to.

Both side were the same. From the flange at the end, the spring pad is 8", and the should mount brackets are 15-3/4".

 

Thanks a bunch Sooper. I'll check my axle and see if the dimensions work for me.