i almost never take it above 2400. and thats when im going up hills or beating a ford off the line at a read light lol i dont beat on my truck.

 

Try letting her hit 3k + every once in awhile. These big engines need to run hard sometimes.

 

Under harder acceleration from standstill, yes, the front driveshaft rubs the collector.
Mild acceleration from standstill or harder acceleration over ~35mph it doesn't hit.
I have some urethane engine mount inserts I plan on installing to lessen the amount of torquing in the mounts... hopefully this will fix it... if not, the next move is to clock the transfercase.

...Back on topic...

 

That was me also... but after fitting some mods, and seeing how it really comes to life over 2500rpm, I venture up there every once in a while

 

very helpful information there. thank you very much.
i plan on doing a good amount of upgrades to this truck. i just started a new job and i have to wait 2 weeks till my first check, so until that time comes im having to pinch as many pennies together as possible. at the same time i cant allow warn or non functioning parts to destroy other parts.

the crank position sensor was suggested to be replaced and i plan on doing so

 

What is the total mileage on your truck?
If you're approaching 100k, most sensors should be replaced (if not already).
All sensors deteriorate over time... some just quit working (obvious failure), others don't do their job as accurately as the once did (performance not at its peak, or some mystery symptom that you can't track down).

 

i have 158k miles on my truck and as far as i know thats the factory sensor in there

 

*thread has been hijacked* back on topic gentlemen!

 

A clogged cat shouldn't cause misfires... I think you're running off in the wrong direction.

Start at the basics: your engine requires 4 things: fuel, air, spark, and compression. Unless you threw a rod, you have compression, and unless you bent a valve or slipped your timing you have air, so...

Misfires are going to be either a) plugs aren't getting spark or b) cylinders aren't getting fuel. Usually no spark.

Your common causes are going to be
* worn/damaged plugs (shouldn't be yours if less than 1500 miles old)
* worn/damaged plug wires, (again, you should be fine if less than 1500 miles old)
* worn/damaged distributor cap/rotor
* faulty coil (all cylinders, not just one)
* faulty crank position sensor (doesn't tell the PCM which cylinder the engine is on so it doesn't think to fire
* after these... It gets weird...

My money is on plug wires or crank sensor. I've seen wires melt to the manifold if they get close enough. Or one just worked its way off a bit... But the random code means it's affecting more than one cylinder or the PCM can't figure out the pattern, so my money is on a sensor or other electrical component.

If you're not getting fuel, it's (almost) got to be an injector problem. If you think it's the injector, swap #1 and #3 and see if the misfire follows it.

As for sensors, I just replaced the throttle body sensors (IAC, TPS, MAP) and ordered a new CPS from rock auto for... $125? Somewhere in there...

There are ways you can test them with a multimeter, and mine all tested "good", but juuuuust barely. So I replaced them. It's amazing the difference it's made.

 

How hard to replace those sensors?