5.2 to 5.9, with an auto to manual Swap to boot.
#121
There was an article posted in a thread on the General discussion side where a group of people did some very thorough flow ratings and experiments on all the different intakes. short of a full blown race intake,the M1 won. Hands down.
The Air gap is better than stock. But it is more or less a just carb intake with fuel injector bosses. But many on here have run it. And I have not seen one yet that did not like it. The M1 is a little more rare.
The Air gap is better than stock. But it is more or less a just carb intake with fuel injector bosses. But many on here have run it. And I have not seen one yet that did not like it. The M1 is a little more rare.
#122
There was an article posted in a thread on the General discussion side where a group of people did some very thorough flow ratings and experiments on all the different intakes. short of a full blown race intake,the M1 won. Hands down.
The Air gap is better than stock. But it is more or less a just carb intake with fuel injector bosses. But many on here have run it. And I have not seen one yet that did not like it. The M1 is a little more rare.
The Air gap is better than stock. But it is more or less a just carb intake with fuel injector bosses. But many on here have run it. And I have not seen one yet that did not like it. The M1 is a little more rare.
You're a few days behind Ham Bone. It has all been discussed and that is how we ended up back here. The Air Gap is a good choice for him.
#124
For your purposes, go with the air gap. It will still flow enough that your engine will build decent power if you get on it. (I think you will be more traction-limited, than power-limited....) Even with the better heads, you won't max out on flow till much higher in the RPM band than you probably really wanna push it. Doing a bit of gasket matching on the intake and heads will make a nice difference as well.
Now you say I won't run out of flow with the 1.92 valves even at 5,000 RPM, is that referring to %100 volumetric efficency or reality, of about %70-80.
Now you are telling me AirGap as everyone is recommending M1, now I'm confused.
I understand the M1 is designed for EFI as AirGap was meant for a carb.
And the AirGap is dual plane which would generate low end.
But the M1 does flow more, (technically).
#125
For high RPM use, high flow rate is where it's at. But, in your case, the heads are the limiting factor, not the intake, so, using the intake that is optimal for your intended use is the best idea here. The information presented on flow rates of the various manifolds was very enlightening, and actually doing the math myself was even more enlightening. (this was a revelation for me as well.) In all reality, EITHER manifold will do better for you than the stock kegger, but, for YOUR intended use, the air gap is where its at. It will flow more than enough air regardless of efficiency of the engine.
#126
For high RPM use, high flow rate is where it's at. But, in your case, the heads are the limiting factor, not the intake, so, using the intake that is optimal for your intended use is the best idea here. The information presented on flow rates of the various manifolds was very enlightening, and actually doing the math myself was even more enlightening. (this was a revelation for me as well.) In all reality, EITHER manifold will do better for you than the stock kegger, but, for YOUR intended use, the air gap is where its at. It will flow more than enough air regardless of efficiency of the engine.
Will I really have a substantial amount of LOW-END torque lost with the 2.02 valves? I understand its not really lost, as I'll make the torque at a higher RPM level than 1.92, so I guess what I'm asking is, what will the difference in RPM level I'm courious about. I'm sure thats a difficult question, but hey, it's worth a shot.
#127
#128
#129
Just another question. The guy who I brough my heads to, and found out that they're cracked, is VERY against me getting EQ heads. He says you don't want that chinese stuff. I informed him I heard they were made in Australia and he's still very against them. I liked them because the price is right, and they have a 5-year, 100k mile warranty as well.
He really reccomended that I purchase some aluminum Edelbrock heads, Made in USA. The only dilemma I have is that they are just about $1700.
I do trust his judgement as hes had this engine shop for 32 years, just wanted some opinions on this.