Is their a write up for a rear main change without dropping the tranny? I heard it's possible with these motors?
Also what's the proper way to run seafoam through these trucks? I need a way to clean the valves and such without pulling the heads after the plenum blew

 

2 or 4 wheel drive?

 

4 wheel

 

For the rear main:

1 Disconnect battery.
2 remove starter, and just set it aside. I propped it up on the control arms, no need to remove wiring.
3 remove inspection plate on trans.
4 drain oil.
5 remove the ten thousand bolts that hold the oil pan on.
6 remove oil pan. Should have enough clearance to take it out.
7 remove oil pump, pickup tube attached.
8 remove rear main bearing cap
9 loosen the rest of the main caps.
10 remove/replace bottom half of rear main seal in main cap. put a little grease on the seal that rides on the crank.
11. use a plastic rod, or something similar, to drive the upper part of the rear main seal out enough you can get a grip on it. pull it out.
12 put a little grease on the lip of the new seal that goes against the crank. don't but any anywhere else.
13 feed the upper part of the seal into the block. (might need to pull down on the crank a bit to make it easier.)
14 reinstall rear main cap. torque all bolts to spec on all main caps.
15 reinstall oil pump. (or, put in a new one while you are right there..... pickup tube as well, it just threads into the pump. make sure you have it aligned properly, so it sits at the right height in the oil pan.) Don't forget to prime it. which consists of pouring a bit of oil into the top port on the pump..... retorque bolt to spec.
16 reinstall oil pan with a NEW gasket. retorque bolts to spec, in the proper pattern. (shown in service manual.)
17 reinstall inspection plate.
18 reinstall starter motor, reconnect battery.
19 change oil filter, add oil, start motor, verify you get oil pressure.
20 clean up mess
21 take shower.

For seafoam, disconnect the vacuum line AT the brake booster, have someone else hold engine rpm at about 1500, and SLOWLY feed the vacuum line into the can. You want it just ABOVE the surface of fluid, so it will suck in a bit, not as much as it possibly can....... you can stall/hydrolock the engine if you feed it too much.

 

Intake repair ordered and on delivery!!!

 

Hughes intake arrived. New coil and plugs with 180 stat ordered. Next on the list will be exhaust, headers, and cat. Then 1.7 rockers after. Can't wait till done... $$$

 

Tomorrow starts disassembly of the truck as long as wether holds up here in Florida. Will take pictures as I go

 

compressor and alternator removed. thankfully the flex lines are good so I could just roll the condenser over to the passenger fender...




water neck is nasty. and belts off. new water neck and 180 stat is here




blaster coil and ngk zfr5f-11 copper plugs getting gaped up to .045. yay for early 97 model year with the 96 coil plug. no need for the adapter

 

4 blown out sections and 2 broken coolant temp sensors... Oops. I'd say the plenum was shot

 

Junkyard today. Good find. Had to pull a new rad bracket. Found one with an oil cooler attached. I don't think it was factory as it ran through the radiator and into the cooler. Also found a new grille bracket all for 70$. Anyone have a good website for a black grille not sport. The one I ebayed was cheap and broke already